| Author |
Message |
    
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Monday, March 06, 2017 - 08:12 am: | 
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Bluzm2: Do you have any more of your extra plates? I wouldn't mind sending you a few dollars if you have more of the ones I'd need to replace my spring plate as well. |
Buellfighter
| | Posted on Monday, March 06, 2017 - 07:17 pm: |
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Extra plate kit installed and rotor nut torqued to some 250 ft lbs.
(Message edited by buellfighter on March 06, 2017) |
Imadog
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2017 - 11:44 am: |
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I remember as a kid we use to turn our bikes over to work on the chains and tires. Worked great... never tried it on a motorcycle.
 |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 07, 2017 - 12:44 pm: |
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Never gone as far as to flip it upside down, but when I had my supermoto I would just lay it on it's side. You didn't even have to drain the oil that way because it'd all shift to one side of the engine haha. Just make sure you drain the carb first.
Buellfighter: Did you pull those plates apart after you got them out of your clutch, or did they come out looking like that?? |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2017 - 12:09 am: |
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Sorry Mees, I only had enough for 2 sets, I used the others on my S2 and M2. I've got fiber plates but no more metals.
Keith, still need your address.
Elf man, yours will be on the way tomorrow. Been a heck of a few days. No time to even get to the PO...
Brad |
Brother_in_buells
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 08, 2017 - 03:25 am: |
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Brad ,I wasn't asking if you had more clutch plates.
I have a leftover clutch pack from a xb i can use. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Thursday, March 09, 2017 - 10:38 pm: |
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Damn your right, I must have clicked on the wrong profile...
I meant Josh and his purrdy S1! |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2017 - 08:56 am: |
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Haha yup, that was me. Good to know the xb plates work too. I assume any normal sportster plates will work as well? |
Buellfighter
| | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2017 - 12:52 pm: |
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Josh, that's how they looked when I pulled the plates from the bike. Had to use a sharp metal pick to remove the rivets from the clutch basket. Luckily no damage to basket. Installed Barnett clutch and runs great! |
Upthemaiden
| | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2017 - 12:55 pm: |
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So far my clutch still works great, just gotta replace that spring plate before it makes a mess. From what I found online it looks like the 91+ sportsters should use the same clutch plates. Did the blast use the same clutch as the XBs? |
Natexlh1000
| | Posted on Friday, March 10, 2017 - 02:44 pm: |
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I know the spring is different on the blast to make it easier t pull the lever.
I'd wager that they used the same clutch parts to keep costs low. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Saturday, March 11, 2017 - 09:49 pm: |
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Just checked my 2000 M2 and Blast parts manuals, they are both the same.
Fiber (Friction plate): 37911-90
metal (Steel Plate): 37812-91
Brad |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 14, 2017 - 12:07 am: |
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Elf,
Yours are finally on the way...
Brad |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 14, 2017 - 02:18 pm: |
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Thanks, Brad. |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Friday, March 17, 2017 - 03:11 pm: |
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They're here and they're nice and flat, plenty of friction surface! Now I just have to make the tool and install them. Thanks, Brad!
My inner field repairman wants to lay the bike on a bush and do it without draining the fluid. My Wisconsin realist says the snow on the bush would melt under it before I got done. |
H0gwash
| | Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2017 - 12:20 pm: |
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I got my clutch spring plate extracted and got 3 plates from the dealer in town, but progress stopped when I tried removing the front pulley to remove the trans to repair 1st gear dog problems. My nut was completely rusted on.
Wasted a week with various tricks, finally ordered the pulley locker tool from ebay. Seller emailed an apology that they were actually out of stock. Found the link in the Knowledge Vault for the JP Cycles tool on Thursday, immediately had it next day air mailed for $35. 'Due to mechanical failure' the shipment was delayed 1 business day. Here it is, Saturday morning, and the tool will sit 7 miles away all weekend as it is rescheduled for Monday delivery. <Head explodes>
In 2010 Jramsey wrote he used "1/4" x 1-1/2" x 4-3/8" Aluminum flat bar with the ends rounded to fit the tooth profile" for this job. I cut a similar size piece from scrap and ignored the profile matching bit and simply rounded one of the short quarter inch face edges to approximate the shape and width of a single belt tooth. I jammed the rounded edge between a single pulley tooth groove and the thick alum mounting block and it worked! There was minor distortion on the aluminum flatbar but no apparent damage to pulley. No doubt the twenty or so PB nut blaster applications that week helped a lot.
(Message edited by h0gwash on March 18, 2017) |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2017 - 12:34 pm: |
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Gerard,
I think you are referring to the crank nut being tight. It is. Probably not rusted.
I've use my home made locking bar for years (as have many others). Mine is just a piece of flat bar stock with the ends profiled a bit. I've used it more times than I can count. Impossible to remove the crank nut without it.
When it goes back on, it's around 200 ftlbs or more, I'd have to check. Had to buy a 3/4" torque wrench to do them. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2017 - 12:37 pm: |
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Elf,
Got a drill press? Just use a chunk of PVC pipe with an end cap. Put the open end on the spring and push on the cap with the drill press arbor. I cut a section out of the side so you can get at the retaining clip.
Worked great. |
H0gwash
| | Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2017 - 01:11 pm: |
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My crank nut (1-3/16" dia, standard thread) came off nicely after 10 min with a propane torch to melt the loctite. I also jammed a locking plate between clutch basket and rotor sprocket in the primary case. The crank nut was not rusted at all.
I should clarify that I have transmission issues that I'm trying to solve while the clutch is out, which is the only reason why I chose to wrestle with the second drive transmission sprocket nut on the opposite side of the bike (1-7/8" dia left handed thread) that one was quite rusted and wouldn't budge even after the propane torch and with a 6' breaker bar. Fortunately, a similar "locking plate" between the second drive pulley and mounting block worked there.
EDIT:Looks like you can remove 99% of the transmission without removing the secondary drive pulley nut. You just have to leave your mainshaft 5th gear stuck to the pulley in the case.
(Message edited by h0gwash on March 18, 2017) |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Monday, March 20, 2017 - 03:13 pm: |
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I have a drill and a steady hand, and a disc grinder for cutting a notch out of the side of the end cap. What size bolt reaches the center threads from the top of the end cap? |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 28, 2017 - 11:47 pm: |
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You don't need that, just compress the spring and remove the retaining ring/spring.
Sorry, I should have mentioned I used my drill press as an arbor press to push down on the PVC cap..
(Message edited by bluzm2 on March 28, 2017) |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 29, 2017 - 02:25 pm: |
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But if I use a bolt, can't I do the plate exchange with the basket in the primary case?
I'm planning to post pictures, have all the gaskets gathered already. |
H0gwash
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 29, 2017 - 06:17 pm: |
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I ended up using 3-1/4" interior diameter plastic pipe cut about an inch tall and a piece of quarter inch thick aluminum bar with a hold drilled in it with a wood bit and the clutch adjustment nut. With that setup you won't need a bolt. It is very much like the second picture Buellfighter posted on March 6 above. I had to fish out the plates with a bit of bent wire but it worked. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 29, 2017 - 09:40 pm: |
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Sorry Elf, I thought you pulled he clutch basket. |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Thursday, March 30, 2017 - 02:38 pm: |
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I can, I've had adjuster shoe and stator issues, but it's nice and snug now and I prefer not to disturb it if I can avoid it. |
