Author |
Message |
Sfmc_x1
| Posted on Friday, January 13, 2017 - 01:55 pm: |
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Background: replaced failed front isolator a few months ago and installed a stenzel bar, rode typical commute then let the bike sit while I rode my secondary bike. Came back to the Buell with a obvious dead battery (12+years). Present: Replaced battery and began riding the Buell again. Noticed the speedometer has stopped working, increased vibration on deceleration, changes in idle, engine light. Pulled out the stenzel bar the other night, issues remain the same. I have the old scanalyzer kit from American Sport Bike but no working laptop to perform diagnostic, so a TPS reset wasn't performed when the battery was replaced. Any hints, clues or help before I start spending money and replacing more parts would be appreciated. Cheers. |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Friday, January 13, 2017 - 02:19 pm: |
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Are the battery cables good and tight? The battery is a new one ,but is it a healthy one? Make sure the battery is 100% ,maybe switch it with the one from your other bike (if it fits) and go for a ride. |
Buellrobot
| Posted on Friday, January 13, 2017 - 02:23 pm: |
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Hi Sfmc – others probably know better than I do, but I don't think the battery dying would normally require a TPS reset. Some ideas for troubleshooting: 1) Trace/clean/tighten the major electrical connectors to/from battery, on both sides of each cable to the starter, including ground strap. 2) Check for intake leaks. 3) Use a paperclip to get codes (or borrow a friend's laptop and try ecmspy), in case there's an error. 4) Engine Temp (ETS) sensors are known to go bad on the X1 and cause probs I did #1 (after neglecting it for years) and it was like having a new bike. I cleaned up contacts to the starter motor and took apart the solenoid thing in the starter and cleaned/lubed that as well – BIG difference. Good luck! (Message edited by buellrobot on January 13, 2017) (Message edited by buellrobot on January 13, 2017) |
Sfmc_x1
| Posted on Friday, January 13, 2017 - 02:24 pm: |
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New battery is brand new, cables tight... |
Steveford
| Posted on Friday, January 13, 2017 - 06:49 pm: |
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Speedo is a separate issue but I'd put in new gas and perhaps dump in some Seafoam as well to see if it can't loosen up any crap in the fuel system. You need to find out what that code is. |
Sfmc_x1
| Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2017 - 11:00 pm: |
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I've cycled a tank of gas through, but I'll send some cleaner through just as well. Got the old corrupted laptop charged to see if I could talk with the bike, but couldn't establish a connection, COM port errors. Was able to borrow a hd trouble code reader, basically a glorified paper clip, came back code #14. I wasn't able to fetch any other codes, is there a way to get the reader to register the next fault if any or clear the existing error once the part is replaced? Lastly is it common that a lone bad engine temp sensor be the cause of these excessive bad running issues, especially in the area of vibration? |
Buellrobot
| Posted on Saturday, January 14, 2017 - 11:52 pm: |
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If I remember correctly it should automatically cycle through all saved error codes (at least that's how it does with the paperclip). I don't know about vibration, but my understanding is that a bad ETS can make these bikes run like garbage. The part number for the ETS is P1278.K You will also need to get a socket and cut a slot in it to remove/replace the part. You can also buy a pre-cut socket. |
Sfmc_x1
| Posted on Sunday, January 15, 2017 - 12:48 am: |
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Nice. Thanks for the part# |
Mmmi_grad
| Posted on Tuesday, January 24, 2017 - 07:46 pm: |
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watch temp rise in software or ECM Spy. If it isnt erratic then you dont need a temp sensor. Plus set Reset the TPS when the bike gets to 120. If you reset a TPS and the temp sensor is erratic then you will get stranded. |
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