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H0gwash
| Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 03:04 pm: |
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Symptom: slow deterioration of starting oomph, characterized by occasional horrible noises, maybe sprag clutch slipping? Now I usually only get vigorous ratatatat from the solenoid. The starter gear rarely gets pushed onto the ring gear and when it does, turning is super slow. No more horrible spraggy noises though. Sometimes there are groaning noises from the starter when it turns real slow. I have replaced the solenoid contacts. I could not remove the starter clutch as its shaft had a circlip blocked by some short ring. The clutch seemed to spin freely though. Brushes are longer than min spec. I have scrubbed clean the connections at the battery terminals, the starter motor, the starter button, the swingarm ground, the ground under the tank, and the connection between the starter motor and the primary case, and tightened them up with dielectric grease. relays and fuses have been changed, their slots have been cleaned. No dielectric grease there, I suppose it wouldn't hurt. I have twisted together the wires for the kickstand safely and clutch safety switches. They have not yet been soldered. I have tested the ignition switch by hotwiring the connector immediately before the switch, no change in behavior. I have also replaced the 30amp breaker which had corrosion, and bypassed the start button, but no change in behavior either. Battery tested good two months ago. Even now when I use jumper cables on a loose charged up car battery on the starter, I have the same ratatat. A replacement starter motor has arrived, so I will be testing that this afternoon, but I'm worndering what else I may be missing. (Message edited by h0gwash on September 16, 2016) |
2003xb9r
| Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 05:07 pm: |
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Low voltage at starter will cause all these symptoms. The battery is probably failing and I'd be rechecking this thoroughly before replacing the starter..... PM sent |
Loose1
| Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 05:43 pm: |
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Maybe check the ohms of the battery cables. The cables could be corroded internally and drawing too much resistance. Matt |
S1owner
| Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 06:44 pm: |
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I would run jumpers from the eisting starter conections to the new starter while not installed and see if it acts normal before tearing the other out. If it does not operate as it should you know its not the starter. I also say battery related |
H0gwash
| Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 10:37 pm: |
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Since I would never get a better excuse to buy the cheap HF load tester, I did so and it was on sale even. After fully charged the MC battery tests as BAD under load. After fully charged the car battery I've been also testing with tested as WEAK. So I'll pull it and take it to the battery place across town tomorrow and try it all again! |
S1owner
| Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 11:05 pm: |
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Not sure what you have near you but batteries plus in my area carries the duracell batteries with a 5 yr warranty and they are nice Also by yourself a quick attach plug for a battery tender and put it on there makes for easy tending (Message edited by S1owner on September 16, 2016) |
H0gwash
| Posted on Friday, September 16, 2016 - 11:26 pm: |
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We have a Battery Bill's here in Sacramento which I've been very happy with. I have a battery tender pigtail on it, a gift from one of the old guys in my club, maybe I should use it all the time instead of hardly ever...... |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2016 - 09:46 am: |
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I think modern batteries benefit greatly from being tethered to a smart charger (a microprocessor controlled one, not the $3 harbor freight transformer one). I think you will pay for the charger ($30 or less at Walmart) in savings from the lifespan of just one battery. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2016 - 10:36 am: |
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If the new battery doesn't fix it, try bypassing the ignition switch. Current for the solenoid runs through the switch. Lots of cases of the ignition switch causing starting issues. |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2016 - 02:43 pm: |
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When you say you cleaned the battery cables, did you clean up both ends of the ground cable? Corrosion at the point where it joins the frame can lead to difficulty charging and premature battery failure, also to slow starter operation. |
H0gwash
| Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2016 - 03:50 pm: |
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Battery tested bad at battery store, got another, and I'm charging it up now. CANT WAIT. I cleaned both ends of both grounds and I sanded the paint off the frame a little. Is there another ignition switch test other than hotwiring the bike and looking for change in behavior? |
S1owner
| Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2016 - 08:22 pm: |
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Did it work!!!! |
H0gwash
| Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2016 - 12:05 am: |
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It fired right up! That load tester is a keeper. Thanks all for your help especially those who left clues in the archives for me to search and study. Tomorrow I will tighten everything back up and ride to work again on Monday. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Sunday, September 18, 2016 - 10:47 am: |
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