| Author | Message | ||
     Bonzai_bucky |
Blew the main drive seal in my 01 M2, have an extra tran. but am playing hell trying to find a rebuild kit. Anyone got a line on complete kit with gaskets/seals and bearings?  | ||
| Jim2 |
I've never heard of a transmission rebuild kit. Get out the parts book and write down part numbers and quantity and then contact Al at American Sport Bike (he's trying to get rid of what is in stock) and Lance at St.Paul for the rest. C-clips for bearings will be much cheaper at a local Bearing supply house or off the internet but it may be hard to size them. Roller-bearings that the gears ride on are cheap, spacers are relatively cheap. The big bearings are cheaper at local bearing supply house. Gears and shift forks are expensive, and the shift drum. You might be able to re-use the primary cover gasket unless it's original paper one. You shouldn't need new clutch cover or inspection cover gaskets. DO get a new shift-shaft seal or two (I like to keep a spare). You might need to get the big bearing on the other side of that shaft. Was the belt too tight? | ||
| Bonzai_bucky |
Jim2, Thanks for direction, When I bought the bike the PO had a chain conversion on it, I swapped it back to belt and had the tension loose (you could press down and touch the swing arm).The bearing and seal went 2k miles after. I have gears and shift fork. As far as part #'s I'm still looking for a cheap parts catalog. I imagine they're pretty universal between 99 and 2002. Thanks for the heads up with American SB, I will follow up with them. I'm thinkin while I am in there to replace the clutch springs and "grenade plate" I've seen a few variations of homemade bearing removers in the knowledge vault. I'll keep posting progress | ||
| Blks1l |
The transmission parts are all standard HD, just go to your local HD dealer or aftermarket shop. Should all be the same from mid 90s to early 2000's, a competent parts counter person could easily help you figure it out. I can scan and send images tomorrow if it helps. | ||
| 1313 |
The transmission parts are all standard HD While this is true, a like year Buell will likely not match a like year Sportster exactly. Should all be the same from mid 90s to early 2000's On Buells, the 2nd gear changed in (was it?) 2000. HTH, 1313 | ||
| 34nineteen |
Should all be the same from mid 90s to early 2000's On Buells, the 2nd gear changed in (was it?) 2000. Did that make a noticeable/worthwhile difference?} | ||
| Reepicheep |
No kit, but the parts should be available from Harley, though you might have to do a little cross referencing to the sportster bits. But I don't think you need much kit. How many miles on the transmission? It might not need much. All I can see that you need so far is the mainbearing, and the bearings in the 5th gear drive assembly (which are internal and will have to be pressed out). Don't put it together without doing that, whatever did that to the big outer bearing would have played hell with those smaller internal bearings. Not that expensive, and not actually that big a job on a tuber. | ||
| S1owner |
Pm me I have an S1 parts catalog should help for those parts | ||
| Reepicheep |
The bearings you need so far can probably be easily sourced by a bearing shop. You may be in for quite the adventure getting that big output bearing out. It can be hard even when it isn't torn up like yours is. Yours won't have much material to press. Maybe you could weld to it though. | ||
| Bonzai_bucky |
How many miles on the transmission? It might not need much. Currently 41'000 But I have another tranny with less than 8k. Not looking forward to pulling that bearing just getting the retaining clip off damn near gave me stitches. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have a pretty complete thread out on the board with pictures. You have to build a jig to press it out. I used large conduit, plate steel, and very large threaded rod. I keep all the pieces, as I want another tuber someday, and if I run across one in the shape yours is in I'll get a really good deal but it won't be hard to fix.  http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=3842&post=198002#POST198002 note that picture is when I was using the same tool to press the assembly back in, not pull it out. When its being used in pull out mode, it is on the other side and inside the cases I think. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
A good paint stripper heat gun is very helpfull to! | ||
| Bonzai_bucky |
Finally got started on the rebuild. Getting the old tranny out was a piece of cake, the pvc tool for the Clutch Diaphragm worked well. Trimmed down a old 3/4" wrench to lock the primary. Numbered every bolt for guaranteed replacement. Parts cat. from American SB was a huge help (thanks Jim)   I will continue to post as i make progress. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You didn't need to take the clutch apart, you can remove the clutch, primary chain, and stator bell as a unit. But since you have the clutch apart anyway, you can now inspect the wear discs. Paper gasket huh? Those *were* the old days... | ||
| Bonzai_bucky |
Pulled the clutch pack to replace the spring plate before it blew. | ||
| Jim2 |
Check the starter gasket and replace if it is paper. Also check torque on starter bolts since you are in. You can apply high-temp RTV or gasket seal around the stator plug to stop the small leak that usually occurs at the stator wire interface to the housing. Carefully inspect the stator wires to be sure they aren't brittle and the insulation isn't starting to flake. That was the cause of a nasty stator short on my M2. | ||
| Jim2 |
Is your rear isolator rotated? Or maybe torn? Something looks off to me but I'm not sure. | ||
| Bonzai_bucky |
Is your rear isolator rotated? Or maybe torn? Something looks off to me but I'm not sure. The isolators were replaced at 25'000 miles. I took a look at it, its not torn but maybe rotated it's in the same position on the other side, it might of happened when I changed it from chain to belt. Thanks for the heads up and insight concerning the starter and stator plug!! | ||
| Bonzai_bucky |
Tapped out the remains of the old bearing that was destroyed. The inside of the case did not allow a lot of material to make contact with. My 8 year old son grabbed a 2 1/8" socket and said "here dad this will work" he was right! flipped it around ran the extension through, so the socket end was facing me, gave a few taps to the extension, HOORAH popped out no prob, no bind.   | ||
| S1owner |
It appears that the rear iso are flippedaround left on right right on left the little flap should be extending slightly to the back and yours go to the front | ||
| Bonzai_bucky |
Below are the part#'s and dealers, It took a few days to track everything down but overall these were the places I found to be reasonable without compromising quality: #40285-91B Main Sprocket Ebay #12067A Main drive seal Dennis Kirk #11165 Quad seal Dennis Kirk #39975-90A(18-0250, 39976-01) Primary chain adjust. Assm. Newcstle HD #8996A Drive bearing Dennis Kirk #31488-81A Starter gasket Dennis Kirk #33653 Detent retaining ring #N0614.01A3 Shift lever bushing Ebay #34955-89A Primary cover gasket Dennis Kirk #25463-94 Derby cover gasket/o-ring Newcastle HD #11188 Primary chain inspection o-ring Newcastle HD #37913-90 Clutch steel plate Newcastle HD #36802-84B Clutch lock plate Newcastle HD #36715-94 Clutch spring Newcastle HD #37911-90 Clutch friction plate Newcastle HD #Z0023.L Frame bumper ?? #67421-99Y Speedo bulb ?? #CA0200.R Brake res. Screws Newcastle HD #34076-89 Shifter bushing (rear) Newcastle HD Everything should be in by the end of week, Really looking forward to riding again, Thank you all for the input and help, I will post pics of the install in hopes it might save someone a few headaches in the future |
