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Stevebee
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

good day. my 1999 s3 is running horrible.
can someone send me a link for a emc-spy free download that i can use to reset tps/afv/and whatever else.
there is a skip/burp/backfire very present between 2500 - 3000 rpm.
running around town is near impossible.
intake seals are not leaking.
the front cylinder is running very rich.
i bought the bike new in october 1998.
i soon learned that the first gen emc's had a glitch that couldn't be fixed.
the dealer installed an emc that is stamp marked "for race use only". also added was the manual thumb turn cable for idle adjustments.
it's run pretty good until the last 2-3 thousand miles(only 15000 on bike).
i dropped $100 yesterday at HD dealer in tampa and got nowhere.
their factory trained guy attempted to reset the values - forget it!
they have no clue as to what emc-spy is...
any help here would be greatly appreciated.
then, i can search out someone to assist me with tuning.
thanks from tampa,
e-mail sfbalcom1@gmail.com
352.442.6569
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 10:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think the big clue here is that the front jug is rich.
The computer only pays attention to the rear jug and just makes the assumption that the front is behaving fine.

So if extra air is getting in to the rear, the computer will richen up both and if the front is healthy, it will become rich.

Since both use the same intake, we can theorize that there may be something wrong with the oxygen sensor.

Make sure your exhaust is on there tight so no air can get pulled in.
Check the black wire coming from the sensor for rubbing or damage.

It may be the sensor itself too.
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 10:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Run pretty good till the last 2-3k miles"

In my experience, the ECM program is pretty 'bulletproof', it is just there and doesn't need changing unless/until there are big changes, like big overbores, extreme exhausts, cams ect. Other than a TPS reset from time to time.

I would start with the injectors. The front may be leaking, or the rear is leaking/clogged and changing your adaptive fuel value. In fact, what IS the fuel value? My X-1 service manual lists a simple, at home check, test for a leaking injector. Only involves removal of enough stuff to look into the intake manifold.

An engine temp sensor that is failing or has shifted/gone out of calibration can cause weird issues.

Are both spark plug wires firmly seated and free of chaffing? Could be another issue.

All of which is a long way of saying that the ECM program was fine for 12k miles, and since no major engine/exhaust/intake changes have been done, the problem is most likely elsewhere.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 10:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And what Nate said. He posted more quickly than I type, LOL . . .
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Stevebee
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 06:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok
i'm on it....
i'll check all of the above again.
there have been no major changes done since 1999 when i installed a borla c/f muffler and K&N air filter.
i was running buell plugs but after reading some old school buell stuff i changed them to the NGK's with a heat range of 9.
i want to avoid just changing out parts.
according to the tech at HD that plugged in the scan-alizer, the tps was reset and the afv was reset to a value of 100.
there aren't many buells around my area so finding locals to help out will be tough.
kinda like slim and none and slim left town.
i've gotten more good info from you's in this posting than i've gotten in years from others.
thanks,
i will follow up with a posting
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Akbuell
Posted on Friday, March 25, 2016 - 07:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Glad to try and help. Don't hesitate to post here or PM for info. Replacing parts to find a problem (what I call the shotgun method, something used by waay to many 'factory techs') is not how I like to work. PM's work for me also, like how to do the leaking injector test, ect.

Do you have a service manual? Dave
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Ducley
Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not too long after I bought my 2002 S3T, I started getting the bucking bronco syndrome.
Always after a few minutes of warmup and a few miles down the road. Once it was fully warm,
it would start the hiccup, spit, backfire routine. Turns out it was the Engine Temperature Sensor.
I did have them switch me out from the Race ECM to the stock one the OP gave me with the bike.
Has run great ever since. I still need a baffle for my SuperTrapp Superlight muffler. Good luck.
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Mnscrounger
Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 01:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have replaced my 2002 S3Ts ETC twice since purchasing in 2010. by PN# 32564-99Y. That one is a "kit" with a new wiring connector. the sensor in the kit is actually an XB sensor PN# P1278.K. Early on I read elsewhere on this form when it comes to fuel injected tubers and XBs " Unless proven otherwise, its the head temp sensor." If your wrong you have a known good one for when the one on your bike does finally fail.
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Stevebee
Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 08:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

morning all,
i reviewed the report i got from HD dealer last week and the cylinder temps are way out.
according to the tech, front cyl. 314F, rear 194F.
these temps come from the readings off the HD scanalizer.
i'll get the bike up to running temp and try to shoot it with a thermal gun or multi-meter probe.
this will be my version of a mechanical temp reading.
front has always run a little hotter than the rear. i know this from the heat felt on my leg.
but - 120F diff ??? false reading ???
where should temps be ?
calling HD for a ETS ASAP, the wire lead from mine is a bit frayed but no conductors are exposed.
thanks guys,
let you know.....
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 09:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They don't have to look bad to go bad.
My engine temp sensor went bad at about the same miles as yours but my bike was only a year old at the time.

My X1 was in the shop all the time the first year (under warranty)
A lot of my issues were related to dealers that didn't understand fuel injection.
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Mnscrounger
Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 09:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I may be wrong, but I believe when the ET "thinks" its too hot, it cuts spark to the rear cylinder. If the front one's doing all the work then it would be hotter, and unburned fuel would cool the rear. (although I would think a bike on an HD Scanalyzer would show that dropped spark, and ET sensor failure.) I measured my head temps once with an RTD electronic contact thermometer, and there was about 75-95 degree difference. I don't remember which was hotter though.
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Akbuell
Posted on Thursday, March 31, 2016 - 10:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seems a new ETS would be a great start.

As to the temp difference, the rear cyl is running approx 2/3 as much as the front. A bad ETS could be telling the ECU the engine is too hot, cutting spark to the rear cyl.

If the new sensor does not solve the problem, time to start looking at the rear injector (could be partially clogged or leaking)and the coil and spark plug wire.

Hope this helps, Dave
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Firemanjim
Posted on Friday, April 01, 2016 - 12:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are you sure the intake seals are good? And can you post what your fuel maps lookl like as most stock ecm's had a terrible lean spot at about that rpm for noise testing.
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Stevebee
Posted on Friday, April 01, 2016 - 08:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

morning all,
troubleshooting continues today.
i have sprayed intake seals at different engine temps / rpm's and don't hear a difference in sound or notice a tach change.
there's a service manual in the mail to me as we chat (goin' to miss American Sport Bike).
i have no fuel map to show at this time.
i requested a emcSpy program yesterday from on-line bueller and hoping for a reply.
MAYBE his spyware is compatible with my 1999 race emc.
thanks again.
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Hootowl
Posted on Friday, April 01, 2016 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pretty sure all the race ecms are the same. Can't imagine you have a map issue. The race ecm seems to work well for most aftermarket exhausts.
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Ducley
Posted on Friday, April 01, 2016 - 06:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought I remember reading once that when the ETS reads too hot it shoots extra fuel to the rear cylinder?
Or is it that it always gets a richer ratio because it is hotter in the rear?
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