| Author | Message | ||
     Truckedup |
I have a 97 M2. 12,500 miles....the front end action seems more harsh than it needs to be. Nothing is bent it moves smoothly but just stiff. The spring and dampening set to softest setting.... So I'm going to pull the fork tubes , I assume this is how to change the oil? What weight fork oil do you suggest for casual sport riding? | ||
| Jayvee |
The fork bushings are considered "consumable" as well. Might consider checking those, if you do pull out the fork tubes. Also could be slightly bent tube. Or even a slightly out of kilter fork brace/fender mount, can bind the forks. Action is affected by both oil weight, and the amount of oil. Someplace I read how to tell which to change, but can't remember now where it was. Its more than you asked, but a while back I put in the RaceTech Gold Valve "emulator" thingies. The instructions weren't clear, but found a Honda site that had a good pictorial. Put in new oil, but didn't change the bushings. Man what a huge improvement. Well worth it, both in cost and trouble. I also put in Hyperco progressive wound springs. Also recommended. | ||
| Truckedup |
I pulled the forks off and disassembled them. Parts look ok but the oil seemed to be thicker than 10 weight...I can see if the front axle is pulled it should be possible to drain the oil by removing the damper retaining Allen bolt.. I have new seals and 5 and 10 weight fork oil. I might try the 5 weight, I'm about 175 pounds in leather and boots... And got new Nachi Japanese wheel bearings (Message edited by truckedup on March 24, 2016) | ||
| Jayvee |
RaceTech recommends 5W. The Buell manual says the stock weight is HD Type E, which seems to usually translate to 10W, but varies depending on the brand. | ||
| 651lance |
Harley-Davidson type "E" for oil is about equal to 20w50 oil if I remember correctly. This is from a guy I know at hd. | ||
| 34nineteen |
IMO, the most challenging part is supporting the front of the bike (safely and securely!). The rest is cake! If you're going through the hassle of pulling the fork legs to drain and refill, you may as well replace the fork seals. That said, if you are going to replace the fork seals, you may as well replace the bushings. | ||
| Truckedup |
I use my shop crane to lift the front end using fabric straps. The a jack stand under front of the shock and the left side of the engine.Then let it down easy on the stands with the crane still supporting some weight... | ||
| 34nineteen |
Then you have the most challenging part solved! | ||
| Truckedup |
The bike is back on it's wheels ..The fork action, with 5 weight and the dampening backed off one full turn more than the stock recommended setting,seems a bit better than before.Nothing is bent or binding..... I have never ridden another M2 so I'll assume all is normal with the "sporting" fork action... |
