| Author | Message | ||
     Artx |
Putting together a front brake setup on 97 S1. Has the PM caliper. I ordered a rebuild kit from am sport bike. Disassembled, caliper, cleaned with denatured alcohol, installed fresh seals and DOT 5. I also drained, cleaned, and blew compressed air through the Nissin 5/8 mc. Now when I squeeze lever, I get a couple bubbles through the relief port, but the lever won't return. Stays depressed. The MANUAL Says there are no user serviceable parts on the mc, however, I removed the boot and snap ring and then removed the internals. IDK why the manual says this can't be rebuilt. Can anyone give me some options / ideas. I'm not opposed to purchasing new if I can find one. Thanks, Bill | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I thought Nissin all took DOT4. Does your reservoir say DOT5? | ||
| Ralph |
'97 used Dot 5. Sorry, no ideas on replacement parts. | ||
| 651lance |
The front master repair kit part number is N0220.F and cost $17. I have them in stock. | ||
| Brentx1 |
Make sure the brakes are completely bled. There shouldn't be any bubbles coming back from the calliper. The lever only moves about 1/2" when done. There isn't any kind of return mechanism in the reservoir, just pressure. | ||
| Buellistic |
OLD SCHOOL: Replace your brake fluid once a year and you will not have to be rebuilding your master cylinders/calipers !!! | ||
| Artx |
Thanks for all the replies gentlemen. Lance651, I ordered the rebuild kit a couple days ago. Can you guys tell me if this lever is going to cause me any problems? This is the one that came with the bike and I'm still learning my way around Buells.  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Look careful if the lever isn't pushing in the mc plunger! | ||
| Fasted |
yes,there will be a problem. that lever is junk. it will never work properly. as a goodwill gesture of fraternity, i will gladly send you my stock lever and you can send yours to me (instead of just throwing it away). i am feeling particularly helpful, so i'll even pay shipping  | ||
| Ralph |
Like BIB said, just make sure the lever is returning completely and not applying pressure to the master cylinder. Fasted, you can buy Chinese levers like that off of Ebay for twenty bucks. | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Ok, I'll ask...  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Kc zombie i think it is some kind of alloy oil tank!? Also the other parts in the picture look like some kind of chopper build and not a tube frame buell! | ||
| S1owner |
Tell you this Your lever is putting pressure on the cylider. I will also add this isxa chopper not a buell! | ||
| Fasted |
it was a joke.....but i didn't realize it was a communist lever.....no thanx | ||
| S1owner |
My levers are like that I need to file the plunger end just a hair | ||
| S1owner |
 | ||
| Artx |
Man. This is a pretty cool forum. Thanks for all the help guys. Ok. So, I haven't touched the bike in about 10 days, but I'm pretty certain the lever WAS indeed putting pressure on the plunger. I was thinking that was a problem, but wasn't sure. I just don't have experience with Nissin. It is not a chopper. It is a drag bike. Lots of guys still drag Buells, but the high center of gravity on the tube frame makes it a better bike for twisties than straight line racing. Buddy of mine was the first to take a buell into the 9's in the hot street class in Vegas 2004. Sportster frames lower the CG and I guess are preferred for our type of racing This is a fuel cell 40oz roughly. (Hope that's big enough because I may be running alcohol in this bike...but that's still in the air)  The tank shell weighs 1 pound.  The rear fender is carbon fiber and weighs 18oz.  Bike is not finished yet, has been a work in progress. Maybe I can get this front brake squared away this week. Can someone recommend a decent aftermarket lever that will work? Thanks again everyone. (Message edited by Artx on March 01, 2016) | ||
| S1owner |
Cool!!! Things you could do for weight Cut the timing cover(can be done on the bike) Remove the aluminum over the rear pulley. Cut the rear fender by 2/3 Upgrade the front rotor to. 9 pin | ||
| Artx |
Thanks. Could you expand on the 9 pin front front rotor? I have red shift 585 cams going in it, so I'll be chopping the cam cover soon. And the rear sprocket is a 520 aluminum from PBI. The trans sprocket is kinda tricky. Having it cut down from 530 to 520. | ||
| S1owner |
Its a more recent rotor  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Artx ,did you got the bike as a project like this or do you have also the other parts that can make it a complete buell s1? And what is done to the engine ,or is it still stock? My inquiry mind wants to know! | ||
| Artx |
It came as a complete bike with most parts in boxes and a salvage title. Tried to sell some of it to fund the race bike, but the world is full of scammers, flakes, etc. got frustrated and ended up just giving the bike away to a veteran who was wanting to put something together. I felt better "giving" it away to someone who would appreciate it, than sell stuff for a $20 bill. The build will be 1250cc, thunderstorm heads, with some porting and oversize valves, 30* Pistons, red shift 585 cams, S&S B or E carb. Daytona ignition, custom exhaust, I'm always open to ideas if anyone has suggestions. (Message edited by Artx on March 01, 2016) | ||
| Hootowl |
Do you need a front brake on a drag bike? Know nothing about the rules, just asking. | ||
| Artx |
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8xAb2OKxoY Obviously, this is different than my slow buell / sportster hybrid. However, last years thanksgiving race in Dallas a guy with a 120ci Harley FXR dragbike went off the end and into the mud. I'm hoping to trap 120mph on this bike, so....it will need to stop as well as go. 😎 |
