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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through July 15, 2015 » Classic rear isolator failure? « Previous Next »

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Paulson
Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 07:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I traded an '02 VT750DC for an '00 X1.
Though I have had to fix a few things over the past year or so, I still feel I got the better deal. : )
I have been wondering why my rear exhaust header is contacting the frame. I think I have found the reason:


lr iso

rr iso
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Ltbuell
Posted on Saturday, June 27, 2015 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

...definitely tater totted.....i know it will be multi posted......get the updated isolators.LT
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Kalali
Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 08:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dead for sure. How many miles on the bike?
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Dannybuell
Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

do the front isolator at the same time!
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Hootowl
Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 10:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On the bright side, X1s are easy. Suspend bike by tail section. Remove isolator bolts. Remove side plate. Remove heim joint bars on swingarm and front of engine (by oil filter), shove frame sideways...the left side isolator should fall out.
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Steveford
Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 10:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Put jack under motor...
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, June 28, 2015 - 08:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you do not know where to put the jack you could crack the case/case's !!!

ISOLATORS Class 101, just PM me for a copy ...
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Paulson
Posted on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 12:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all of the pointers! I am reading and can see that the X1 has that frame advantage.

The bike has 20K miles on it, but I am certain these failed 8-10K ago (or maybe I got it this way?). Even so, I love this bike.

Buellistic - PM sent.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 07:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Holy crap! you will LOVE LOVE this bike once it has actual isolators in there!
You might want to replace the front one too.
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Oldog
Posted on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

double check the front mount bolts.

I lost mine after a bout of bad iso's
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 11:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Remove heim joint bars on swingarm"

That should have been "swingarm mount".

Jeff
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89rs1200
Posted on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

New rear isolators, with metal "wing" fit all S3s steel or aluminum swing-arm.

I built and recently used a "Rear Isolator Replacement Tool". Used a large bolt cut to length so it would just fit. Put two nuts on it as one nut was not long enough. Spread only enough to allow the isolator to come out!!

Service Bulletin B-016B has the best instructions. Find this or a manual. Must hoist the tail to take nearly all the weight off the back tire.

Found Service Bulletin B-016B
http://www.ukbeg.com/downloads/files/techbulletins /Isolators96-00.pdf

Use anti-seize on the washer and bolt head, Loctite on threads. Use a marker and draw a line across the rubber. If it moves into an angle/curve, you know the isolator has moved.

Torque for the new Torx style bolt is 62-70 Ft Lb. Hmmm. Maint. Manual states red Loctite and 100-110 Ft Lb for the older allen head bolts.

Be patient and DO NOT CROSS THREAD!!! These are fine thread bolts, so ensure they go in absolutely straight!!

Go to Americansportbike DOT com for the isolators.
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 09:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would not use red loctite, regardless of what the book calls for. Blue and the correct torque is just fine.
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89rs1200
Posted on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 09:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I must agree with Hootowl. About 100,000 miles on S3s using blue Loctite and not a one bolt coming loose.

This is not advise, just a personal agreement.
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S1owner
Posted on Monday, June 29, 2015 - 11:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use blue also!
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 - 03:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If I recall, the bolts that came with the isolator upgrade kit (don't think they come with the isolators unless you buy a kit) had thread locker already on them. I don't remember what color it was, but it may have been red. I don't trust the pre-applied dried on thread lock, so I added a bit of blue. Blue won't let a bolt rattle out, and these things aren't under any sort of immense load, just the weight of the frame and your butt, and they don't rotate in oil like a crank nut (always use red on those!) so...yeah. Blue.
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Steveford
Posted on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The washers in that kit should come with a coating of wax to keep them from gripping the rubber (in theory, at least).
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Paulson
Posted on Wednesday, July 01, 2015 - 01:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Since I already love this bike, I am excited to find out
how much I have been missing when I replace the isolators.
: )
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Paulson
Posted on Tuesday, September 29, 2015 - 08:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I replaced the rear isolators and also the front isolator (it was shot too).
This bike handles better and I can even use my mirrors now! : )
That front isolator was a pain to get at.
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