| Author | Message | ||
     Roderick |
My S1 clutch cable broke at the lever and a new one is coming. I decided to change the tensioner in the process. The bike is about 28k miles so I guess the change was due anyway. The difference between old and new is clear and there are two cracks in the old, as shown by the feeler gauge. This is the first change for the tensioner. My questions for those who have done this before are... 1- Adjust cold after install and then readjust after a ride (hot) ? 2- What would be the shift quality after the clutch cable and tensioner change ? 3- Change the primary oil again after a few miles ? 4- Are the grooves normal after 28k miles ? Thnx for any advice. Roderick    | ||
| Phelan |
1: Yes 2: Dunno as I never changed a clutch cable and tensioner at the Sam time. 3: I wouldn't bother 4: Yes they are normal | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
only one minor thing to bear in mind. The chain eats the shoe quickly until the rollers touch down. After that it doesn't wear very much. You will need to be a little more vigilant in checking the chain tension early on til it settles in. Congrats on catching it just in time! | ||
| Oopezoo |
Looks about the same as the one I just replaced on my '98 S1, only mine didn't have the cracks (yet). It had about 14-15k miles on it. | ||
| Buellistic |
ADJUSTING PRIMARY CHAIN Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| Hootowl |
"The chain eats the shoe quickly until the rollers touch down. After that it doesn't wear very much." Yes. This is why the factory calls for an adjustment at 500 miles. If you let it go, the chain will sling out and eat into the primary cover. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I'll bet pretty much every tuber on the road has some nice primary cover grooves.. It makes the primary fluid take on a nice glitter tone if you are looking to glam up your Buell. Does make a racket though. Still, you should adjust it right. But don't panic if you have grooves already.  | ||
| Buellistic |
The FSM is "WRONG" as the primary chain should be adjusted to 3/4 inch play on the chain tight spot ... | ||
| Hootowl |
"glam up your Buell" Primary fluid bling! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Don't hate the player... | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bill, Virtually every tuber that has come through the Crisis Center has had groves in the primary cover. Mine included.. As ti question #2, yes you will notice a difference. The clutch cable was "stretching" before it broke, not much but enough to be noticeable. The primary tensioner was also flexing (that's why it broke), this makes shifting a bit stiffer and makes finding neutral harder. | ||
| Roderick |
Does anyone have any advice on the Barnett stainless braid clutch cable adjustment from American Sport Bike? I installed the Barnett cable and am confused on the adjustment. I got the clutch end fine. Turn counter-clockwise until lightly bottom, then clockwise for 1/4 turn. But it is the adjustment mechanism that puzzled me. Once I got the locknut tight against the (lower long) adjuster piece, the entire adjustment assembly can still be turned by hand, but nothing is loosened. Lever action require more effort than old, but nothing unbearable and maybe there is a 'broken' in period. I have not taken the bike out yet. So far just running on stands -- no leaks on the primary gasket and no 'funny' noises from inside. If anyone have any experience with the Barnett stainless steel braid clutch cable, I would appreciate any advice. Thnx. Roderick (Message edited by Roderick on June 27, 2015) (Message edited by Roderick on June 27, 2015) | ||
| Roderick |
Everything must have been done correctly. Took the bike out before sunset and in a couple minutes lever effort became noticeably less to engage the clutch. Neutral was easy to find. Shifting was smooth and solid through all gears with the familiar first gear 'clunk', but not as loud like before. No 'funny' noises from the primary area, if anything, it was more quiet than before the tensioner change. Stopped several times to check for leaks and there were none. Thnx to all who offered their experience. Roderick |
