| Author | Message | ||
     S1owner |
Ok so planning ahead here what is the best process for starting a motor that has been emptied and the top end rebuilt. Start with adding oil and new filter? | ||
| Phelan |
Yeah that would be ideal lol. I assume there is assembly lube on the cylinder walls and cam lobes? Once you have oil and filter in it, start and run it for ~1 min, then shut it off and let it cool down. Do this 5-10 times. Then ride varying loads, keeping RPMs under 3500 for the first ~500 miles. This is how I was taught to do I anyway, and how I broke in my 100+ RWHP Uly build. | ||
| Jolly |
Replace all fluids, add oil to the filter when you screw it on so the filter isn't drv... When I pull the rocker boxes I still go very carefully when starting the motor. I turn everything by hand first, no fuel, no spark plugs, use the rear wheel in 5th gear to rotate the motor to get things moving, check for any noise, and get oil moving through the oil pump. then I let it sit for a few minutes, then I use the starter, with no fuel, no spark plugs, so that you're not fighting any compression resistance and spin the motor faster, this really serves to move more oil from the oil pump and to check it at starting speeds. let it sit for a bit... then I insert the spark plugs, with no coil wires connected, no fuel and spin the motor briefly with the starter to spin the motor against compression. Then I finally start the motor. Curious if anyone else is taking the same, more, or less steps?? | ||
| S1owner |
Great start keep the info coming. And yes it has assembly lube. | ||
| K12pilot |
I did as Dave stated, but I actually went as far as putting oil in the pushrod tubes before I buttened it up, they sound pretty scary on start up when they bleed down (( My motor sat dry for 2 months before I even started the build. I got oil in the tank as soon as I possibly could, and than it sat another month or so as I was building it. my plan was to let it bleed down into the crank case, It self bled the lines & pumped oil immediately. It worked for me... But I still have not ridden her yet (( | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Ken, took a day to get that damn assembly lube off my fingers, that Redline stuff is good! The start up clatter is pretty scarey. Not quite so bad if you soaked the lifters in oil though. It does quiet down after 30 sec or so.. | ||
| S1owner |
Funny my hands were not dirty? | ||
| Dannybuell |
all of the above. How I do oil changes may help here: Unplug the ignition wires and do a few taps on the starter. Repeat until the oil light goes out. This gets the oil into the filter. Hook the wires up and follow the previous posts after that. Oil Change Method: after draining the oil, Do the above with the filter off and the oil pan in place. This will clear the bad oil from the pump. p.s. a few taps on the starter is better than riding it to meltdown. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
I just completed a motor rebuild (not a Buell...that was a few years ago). Basically what Jolly said. Make sure that you're getting the oil flowing through the motor by using the starter w/o a plug. That is the most important step before actually firing (IMHO) | ||
| S1owner |
Thanks for all the input would hate to do un needed damage after all this work | ||
| Zip88 |
Rebuilt my 88" Pistons, Rings, Jims Roller Rockers, etc. The motor is quiet so it seems I am getting oil to all the lifters. I have the rocker box covers off. The question is, how long after the exhaust rockers have lots of oil can I expect oil to the intake rockers. The exhaust rockers are hot to the touch but the intake is cold. I ran the motor for about a minute. I am hoping the assemble lube is blocking the oil flow until the intake gets warmer. Please help |
