| Author | Message | ||
     Ganthos |
Is this a big problem? How do I fix it just use an easy out? It will not let me up load from phone but on the pulley gear on the motor I found a bolt head broke off. | ||
| Imadog |
Yes, you will have to try and use an easy out. The tricky part is making sure you get the pilot hole centered, use a center punch. I usually use a 3/8 pointed tap on hardened bolts because a standard center punch is softer and used on mild steel. Another problem is that the bolt has permanent Loctite 271 applied to the threads, and requires heat (around 300-350 degrees F) to soften the Loctite. You need to be careful not to bubble the paint. Hopefully the bolt comes out. Do not break the EZ out, because your next option will be drilling the bolt out and tapping. You may want to take it to a machinist for this option. Finally replace all bolts and washers with new ones, use Loctite and torque properly. Check your wheel bearings and replace if necessary. Take care when reassembling the axle bolt to not over torque the nut, it will crush the spacer resulting in premature bearing failure and possible damage to wheel. Good Luck! Gary | ||
| Ganthos |
Thanks for the info I have access to a shop at work. Is it a left handed thread? | ||
| Imadog |
The parts book has pn 3245y (7/16-14 x 1-1/2") zinc plated. I ASSume it is standard thread. Let me run out to the garage and check what grade bolt it is... OK, the bolts are grade 8, the manual does not mention being Left Handed and says to use Loctite 271 and torque to 55-65 ft-lbs. It sounds like you really are getting to know your bike, and are not afraid to work on it. Good Luck! Gary | ||
| Ganthos |
I have to take the but off that holds the pulley on is that a left hand thread? Yeah I am not scarred to get my hands dirty  | ||
| Imadog |
Just looked at your profile... says your from Eugene, my buddy in MMI was from there and had wonderful stories about all the rides. He was the quickest rider I had been around, starting out riding dirt bikes at the age 7. Sadly he got crippling arthritis, and could no long ride or wrench. That did not slow him down, he started racing RC cars and was so good, he picked up sponsorships and they flew him around to races all over the west. | ||
| Imadog |
Ganthos - I have givin you wrong information, I some how was thinking the rear pulley. Hold on! I work nights and my head is foggy at this time. | ||
| Ganthos |
Okay yeah I work nights to sometimes I blur things together. But there are a lot of fun roads around that no one uses. Once I get the bike up to par I will get a Go-pro and make some videos. | ||
| Imadog |
Ganthos - big nut IS Left Handed. The 2 allen bolt are 1/4-20 x 5/8" SHCS Grade 8. Torqued to 95-110 in-lbs. The big nut gets Loctite 262. The procedure is a little complicated. I know there are some good write ups in the KB. I will PM you the 2 pages from the manual. Gary | ||
| Imadog |
PM sent, I could not figure out how to attach the files, I gave you my e-mail address. | ||
| Imadog |
E mail replied. | ||
| Reepicheep |
You have another problem also, that inner bearing is walking out. The right way to fix it is to take out the transmission, press out that 5th gear drive assembly, press out both those inner bearings, then press in new ones. You will also have to press in a new outer bearing. Lots of fussy little steps. If it were me, I would be tempted to jury rig some kind of way to smoothly and gently tap that bearing in gently... then watch it and see if it comes back out... | ||
| Hootowl |
And install the missing seal when you're finished... | ||
| Reepicheep |
And if you don't, you will find the bike suddenly hard (maybe impossible) to get in or out of gear, resulting in a monster wheelie through an intersection trying to get home after trying to start the bike by slipping the clutch in second gear under pressure in traffic. Um, or so I hear. It will also damage the output shaft, which 5 years ago was a $125 part, and requires total transmission disassembly (which means a big 3d puzzle, another handful of new bearings, and a pair of snap ring pliers from hell). DAMHIK.  | ||
| S1owner |
To remove the large nut it is way easier with the correct tools and it could come off easy or it could be a royal pain mine took a breaker bar my 240 pounds and an 6 ft leverage bar and thats after snapong 1 breaker bar.  | ||
| Ganthos |
Oh shit that's not good. Well do you think if I can get the but off I can tap that bearing back on the shaft? But if I can't I will just have to go down to the local shop. Where does the missing seal go? | ||
| Hootowl |
The seal goes over the shaft. It seals water out and oil in for that bearing. | ||
| Ganthos |
Looks like I might be getting in over my head on this one. | ||
| Ganthos |
Okay thanks for the info | ||
| Reepicheep |
The seal, if I recall, goes *inside* that hollow shaft on that 5th gear drive assembly. The 5th gear drive assembly is what the sprocket is attached too, and what the output shaft rides inside, and what that "sticky - outee" bearing is sticking out off. So if you want to try the easy fix first, take a wood dowel about the same size as that bearing race, use it and a gentle tapping with a hammer, and try and walk that bearing back into the 5th gear drive assembly. Drive it deep enough to get the seal on (which looks like a rubber quarter sized cap that taps in too). Then cross your fingers. If you have access to an impact tool, you can probably get that nut off without the locking tool. You can get an electric impact gun at Harbor Freight for not stupid money. You will still need a monster socket though... When they get that big it doesn't really matter if the socket is SAE or Metric, so long as it fits. You will also likely have a non trivial headache getting the sheared bolt shaft out of there also. A stack of dremel tool tungsten carbide bits, some left handed drill bits, and a lot of patience will be needed. Try the screw remover / easy out, but don't try hard, as they likely won't work and will often break making things worse. (But they do occasionally work if you get lucky, so it is worth a try). Or take it to a good mechanic, having peace that it's an annoying and quirky job that a professional is worth paying to do right. Just be warned that "right" in this case might get expensive fast (pull primary, remove trapdoor tranny, push out 5th gear assembly, replace appropriate bearings and seals, reassemble). (Message edited by reepicheep on May 20, 2015) | ||
| Imadog |
Wow, what a bummer. I would think about getting a Factory Service Manual and Parts List. To fix it correctly (pulling the transmission with new bearing and maybe gears) Is not that expensive. You must be organized and take lots of good photos from various angles. Take your time and ask questions. I know you can do it. Gary | ||
| Ganthos |
Yeah I would do it myself if i had more time and all the special tools needed. But summer is here I am going to take it to a local shop have them go threw it. I don't have the time to do it right now. Going to order a service Manuel too. But I will do the valve covers myself | ||
| Ganthos |
I did find a front wheel bearing the was getting ready to go so I just ordered new ones front and rear. | ||
| Imadog |
cool, that will work. | ||
| S2forever |
I had similar problem with S2. The source of your problem might be tight rear belt. I guess M2 has updated pulley and spacer but I suspect spline is about to be stripped and that big nut is extremely tight by now. This page may help: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/737873.html?1420564706 | ||
| Imadog |
S2 - your link... very thorough documentation of your issue. I do think it was related a tight belt. Where does the spacer go? I am going to check my drive pulley for similar issues. Thanks! Gary | ||
| Ganthos |
Thanks for the info and the link. I am going to try to tap it back on . i ordered the rubber cap and seal behind the pulley just have to find away to get that nut off. | ||
| S2forever |
The spacer goes over the main drive gear between bearing inner race and pulley. Once the pulley is off you should be able to pull it out with fingers. M2 must have the updated fat version. You should be able to take that nut off with 40 " long 3/4 " breaker bar and 1 7/8 socket off of ebay and another steel rod across rear wheel. It may help too: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/760095.html?1428507924 | ||
| Imadog |
No one seems to mention this but any permanent Loctite (262 for big left handed nut) should be softened by applying heat, I believe it is 300-350 degree Fahrenheit. S2 thanks for your insight on this problem, your use of the three jaw puller to press the bearing back into place is excellent. Bearings, especially needle bearings can be damaged by beating them in, it is always better to try and press them in with some sort of tool. Also I lube the bearings pressed in contact area a generous amount of engine oil. I could not find a good youtube video on this procedure, but Twin Motorcycle shows a few pictures of this operation. Their pictures of all there project is invaluable. http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20 &aid=694 Thanks. Gary | ||
| Bluzm2 |
I've had that same problem happen on a couple different bikes I've attended to. Both were caused by improper belt tension (too much). I was able to tap the bearing back in place and install the seal. As Bill said above, the seal sits inside the shaft. It's not real tight and doesn't seem like it will stay there but it does. The next question is "why isn't there oil dripping out?" Of the three I've seen like this, none dripped oil. My M2 was the first one that had the problem. That one was fixed under warranty. That was the point in time I decided those hacks were never going to touch my bike again. It was also the start of my Buell addiction. (5 in the garage now...) Anyway, back to the oil thing. Remember that it's the tranny oil that lubes this bearing. Every tranny I've ever pulled has had this bearing on the dry side. Not much lube, just a film at best. One would think it would be well lubed from all the spinning gears in the tranny but in fact this bearing is quite well shielded by the mainshaft 5th gear. I've taken to applying synthetic grease to the bearing from the inside when the tranny is out. Not too much so as not to pop out the seal when the tranny main shaft is inserted when reinstalling the tranny. I've had the chance to work on 2 of the three I did this to, both still had a good grease layer still on the main shaft when disassembled after 20,000+ miles.. In hind site if I ever come across another of the "bearing walkers", I'll use a needle injector to get some grease in the bearing. One more thing, when tapping the bearing back in place I used a socket that very close to the OD of the bearing. I relieved the inner side of the socket edge so as to not bend the folded over part of the bearing race. I wanted to concentrate the force on the outer edge. (Message edited by bluzm2 on May 24, 2015) |
