| Author | Message | ||
     Ganthos |
Been trying to get another buell just ran across an add on cl going to look at it anything that I need to look for? I have my 2000 Buell M2 Cyclone up for sale. It is a 1200 v-twin Harley sportster motor. It has the sound, torgue, and feel of a harley in a sports bike package. It's great to ride, and has plenty of power for all the windy roads around Oregon. It has a custom paint, seat,cowling, and aftermarket intake to give it more of the stripped down clean look. New starter installed in August of 2013. I have the original seat, and cowling as well. The bike has around 9330 miles That's the ad he is looking for 3200 obo  | ||
| Robertl |
That seems like a somewhat reasonable price but I think you could get it a little lower, sub 3k. NADA is only about $1500 retail. http://www.nadaguides.com/Motorcycles/2000/Buell/M 2-CYCLONE-1203cc/Values I bought my 2000 M2 with 7400 miles in 2010 for $2000, but that was from a friend. He looked at the NADA value and it was slightly above that but he had the tank apart for cleaning plus the carb needed cleaning. | ||
| Jayvee |
Looks reasonable to me. The paint is shiny, but looks pretty normal, if really "custom paint" that's more likely to have a problem, gas tanks have are notoriously hard to paint. The seat is cool factory accessory. By custom "cowling", I'm guessing he means the license plate bracket eliminator? The front windscreen, and the rear seat bodywork looks pretty much stock. Turn signals look extra small, hope they work. But the rear fender 'hugger' is missing, and the heat shield too. Looks decent, not much modified. I would certainly offer $3K or less, I'm not a hardball negotiator. Ask about any Shop Manual and Parts Manual. | ||
| Ganthos |
Okay thanks for the help I looked up the Nada it said 1500 but kbb said 3100? Why the difference? He is the second owner first owner did call the work I believe going to talk with the guy today and maybe test ride it Friday. | ||
| Robertl |
NADA is what the DMV would use and I believe most loan companies also use. KBB factors in a lot of things, such as accessories (although NADA now includes some of this too) and will be more realistic based on the current market, zip code, popularity, availability, etc. For example, KBB on my Jeep Wrangler is much higher because of popularity. The asking price is not unreasonable so it really comes down to what you want and the condition. I'd still shoot for just below $3k. | ||
| Ganthos |
Okay sweet anything I can look at it use to my advantage to knock the price down. | ||
| Ganthos |
Really would like it below 2500 | ||
| Blks1l |
It has the SRP shock kit installed, you could use that as far as a negotiating point as well. | ||
| Ganthos |
Lol idk what that is I assume factory shock? | ||
| Ganthos |
Was going to use the oil pump gear recall as leverage. | ||
| Ganthos |
Well I am going to pass on this one needs a rear tire soon lots of oil leaks and he would only go down to 3000 looks like I will have to wait for anther one to pop up. But I will have another one soon I hope | ||
| Screamer |
Not that it matters now, but there hasn't been an oil pump gear recall. | ||
| Ganthos |
I ran the Vin with harley for recalls nothing came up | ||
| Imadog |
Rocker cover oil leaks are normal for buell tubers, the tire is about $200, you have to deal with normal maintenance on any vehicle. The M2 is one of the best universal motorcyles made... EVER! You will have to look long and hard to find one that won't need some maintenance in the price range you mention. I feel its better to spend a little more up front, and get a better shape bike instead of a fixer upper. | ||
| Ganthos |
How hard is it to change the oil pump gear. I don't mind putting money into it but the price should reflect that I think. But he also to told me it was maintained very well if so why is there oil leaking all over. (Message edited by ganthos on May 13, 2015) | ||
| Reepicheep |
Replacing the oil pump gear is pretty straightforward, but its a lot of fussy little screws and bolts. Nothing complicated though, beyond maybe figuring out how to lock the crank to torque down the bolt after you replace the gear. There is a tool for it to make it easy and that is the best way to do it (protects the crank). But cobbling can and has been done to do it. The "good" news is that all the fussing to replace the oil pump drive gear (which you should for sure do) is the same exact fussing to fix all the other top end oil leaks that are inevitable with the original paper gaskets. The metal ones fix that problem. So when you do the oil pump gear job, you are likely solving the rocker box leak problems also. An XB, particularly an XB9, requires less fussing. But an M2 is a rewarding ride, is rebuildable over the long term (for example cartridge transmission), and has a lot of character. | ||
| Ganthos |
So is the tranny separate? Or just easier to work on. Want a simple bike that I can do all the work. | ||
| Hootowl |
It's not separate, but it can be pulled and worked on without splitting the cases, unlike the XB and 2004+ XL engines. | ||
| Imadog |
Dude, you can not find a easier bike to work on: <>Carbureted <>Easy body Pieces (some bikes have over 200 screws to remove to get all the plastic off) <>Maintenance free drive belt. <>Hydraulic lifters... no valve lash adjustment The list goes on, this bike was engineered by the best motorcycle company in US history, it has its issues, and beauties. If you want a great machine, by an M2. | ||
| Ganthos |
OK I will see if I can do some trade with the dude maybe to get the price down. | ||
| Ganthos |
Anyone know off hand what the valve cover gaskets cost. I know the oil pump gear is 94.00 any other parts I need to get when I replace it. Just looking for a ball park figure so I know what I will have to put in it. | ||
| Imadog |
I used the Cosmetic Gaskets from NRHS http://www.nrhsperformance.com/partsgaskets.shtml $45 Takes around 2-3hours... The rear is easier to get off then the front. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Top end gasket kit, oil pump gasket, metal primary gasket (if you still have the original paper), cam cover gasket. You will also want a way to lock the crank to tighten the nut. You can do it from the primary side if you pull the primary cover, and it will work, but it stresses the crank in ways that it probably should not be stressed. It probably is not a bad idea to clean and put a little bit of silicone around the top of the pushrod tube covers from the inside of the rocker box while you have it open. Not much. There is a procedure to tighten the rocker boxes back down to let the pressure bleed out, and when it starts back up afterwards it will tap like crazy until the lifters pump back up. | ||
| Jolly |
I put together a nice job guide for oil pump drive gear replacement. PM me if you want a copy. | ||
| Ganthos |
Okay I will wait to see if I end up making a deal with the guy or not on getting the guide. What's that like 300 for gaskets. Do I have to take the whole top end apart for the oil pump. | ||
| Jolly |
you only have to pull the rocker boxes so that you can pull the push rods, you would want to do this anyway as you might still have the old paper gaskets for upper and lower rocker box gaskets and those WILL leak, not an if but a when...so you pull the rocker boxes to change gaskets and youre almost there...pull push rods, pull exhaust header, pull cam cover, pull pinion gear, replace oil pump drive gear, reassemble with new gaskets. howeve I have one personal modification that I do each time I do this. I hate the stock push rode tubes! I buy the zippers billet base and collapsible push rod tube assemblies, they are like the ones on big twins. they have a spring in the middle that push up and down to positively seat the push rod tube against a gasket or o-ring. Ive done this to 4 of my tube frame bikes and have not had a single leak. motion pro sells an installation tool to compress the "bell" against the spring so you can get the retaining clip in place. it doesn't quite fit in between the fins but I got to looking at it and its a very open tolerance around the bell so I put it in a vice and squeezed the foot closed ever so slightly so it was a tighter fit around the bell and it fit in between the fins on the much better! | ||
| Reepicheep |
You don't need head gaskets, so you can probably get everything for $150 or less. Pricey, but they are good reusable gaskets. | ||
| Ganthos |
Looks like I have worked out a deal with the guy have a buddy of mine that works on bikes take a look and pending a test ride. I would rather get quality stuff then be stuck on the side of the road. Should the tubes be replaced? When dose the oil pump gear go out? When I pull it all a part would only like to have to do it once then twice want to get everything that I need together and do it all at once. | ||
| Jolly |
I don't think you HAVE to replace the push rod tubes, I think you could get by with stock tubes, just replace the top o ring and the bottom little base "sleeve"(?) gasket/o-ring.... It's a strange little thing that fits into the small base and around the tube and let's the tube slide up and down..... Kind of a chinsy set up.... Any way, I think a lot to most people keep the stock set up. This is just something I do to ensure no leaks and every bike I change the oil pump drive gear on I under cut the cam cover while its pulled and install the collapsible push rod tubes with stock push rods. http://www.nrhsperformance.com/partsvalvetrain.sht ml Two other places these bikes leak or weep oil is the stator plug as it exits the engine and the original starter gasket. Pull the primary and ensure you have the updated primary chain adjuster foot and while you're in the pull the stator plug, clean it and put some black RTV on it and seat it back in the hole. Then pull the starter, clean up the mess under it and reinstall with new gasket. You'll be glad you did! | ||
| Ganthos |
the starter was replaced last year. It purrs like a cat. tranny is tight no slope clutch is stiff long lights you get tired of holding it in. but i will get use to it. Under cut the the cam cover? Where are the cams up top i assume? | ||
| Jayvee |
Cams are in the "cam chest" the bottom right side engine cover, in front of the front pulley. Old.School. | ||
| Ganthos |
Okay thanks if I put new cams in do I have to take apart the top end too? Anyone have a manual I can download |
