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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through September 26, 2015 » 2000 M2 Stator replacement questions..... « Previous Next »

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Mfell2112
Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2015 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I am going to replace my stator in a week or two. Was wondering what else I should replace while I have it apart? My bike is not shifting as well as it used to so I am thinking of doing some clutch work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Mike
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Jim2
Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2015 - 09:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You should replace the primary chain tensioner shoe if it has the weak one. They often break. You can tell after you get into primary by locking at the metal part that the nylon shoe slides onto. The weak one is about 3/16" thin the better newer one is about 5/16".

Might want new updated primary cover gasket. Original is paper. New one is metal and rubber.

Will need a new shift shaft seal.

Its a real good time to replace the starter gasket But if it isn't leaking no real need to. Might want to check torque on starter bolts.

Also a good time to put high temp rtv or gasket sealer around the new stator plug when you install it so it never weeps trans fluid from the plug/case interface.

This is also the time to replace the main shaft oil seal if it still has the original single lip seal. These fail and oil will enter the primary causing it to overfill and exit the primary vent tube all over your back tire. This job requires a seal installer tool that will prevent the new seal from going too deep and contacting bearing.
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Jim2
Posted on Saturday, May 02, 2015 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Replace the clutch spring plate in the center of the clutch pack with two fibers and one steel. Or was that two steel and one fiber?

If its not shifting good it may just be out of adjustment. The shift pawl adjustment, clutch hub screw adjustment, primary chain adjustment, and the clutch cable adjustment all have to live together in perfect harmony to realize good shifting.
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Mhlunsford
Posted on Sunday, May 03, 2015 - 03:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The crank seal I shifting problem I would change the shift forks and chain tensor as mentioned. And consider the 8 bolt mag over the 4 bolt.
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Devdawg
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 05:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check the pins in the shifter drum, could be part of the shifting problem. Maybe get the updated pawl as well. While you have the shifter drum out, polish it with a polishing wheel. It will make a big difference in smoothing the shifting out.
Also, check the Stator wires to make sure the plate holding it in place won't rub or cut thru the wires and short it when you put it back on.
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Xldevil
Posted on Tuesday, June 02, 2015 - 10:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi.
If you have to replace anyway,I would consider to upgrade to the 38Amp XB system.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/433236.html?1233572275

Cheers,Ralph
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