| Author | Message | ||
     Fxdrydr |
After months of occasional tinkering, I finally got my M2 carb issues straightened out. Fired right up, set the idle and all seems well. The bike had sat for a loooong time and the pilot jet was blocked. Also, the idle adjustment was stripped and wouldn't engage the flange on the cable hardware and so the idle couldn't be set. Between those two things, it would die if the RPM dropped. Otherwise, ran well. Ended up rebuilding the carb and doing some CV Performance mods for the fun of it, installing 45/195 jets, NRHS a/c, re-tapped the flange nut and set the idle. Along the way, installed XB covers and a tiny bit of bling. Said in an earlier thread that I'm no wrench, and I'm not. But these things are almost TOO easy to work on. More to come as I enjoy this thing but for now - thanks to all here and the collective information on this site! | ||
| Jefc73 |
Awesome. Great job Gordon. | ||
| Imadog |
Today is the first good day to ride here in KY. Seen a few bikes already. I started mine a couple of times over the winter and kept a battery maintainer on it all winter. Plan on getting it out today or tomorrow. We had a bunch of rain the past couple of days so the salt should be off the roads. Need to remind myself to take it a little easy for the first rides to get the motor skills tuned up. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Out of curiosity, why did you "start it a couple times over the winter"? You do know that does more harm than good, right? If it's going to sit...let it sit. Don't ever start an engine - ESPECIALLY an air cooled engine - unless you're going to ride it long enough to bring it up to operating temperature and hold it there for at least 10-15 minutes. Best thing for it, put sea foam in the tank and just let it sit. Don't touch it, don't tease it. Keep the battery on a tender and it'll fire right up come springtime. | ||
| Imadog |
It's out of habit, everything I own that doesn't run over the winter (ie Lawn Mowers) I will start and run for 10-15 minutes. This circulates oil thru the engine and drys out some moisture in the system. Plus it puts a fresh shot of fuel in the float bowl. I currently add Stabil and a little Marvel Mystery Oil to the fuel when I shut them down in the fall maybe I don't have to do this ritual anymore with fuel stabilizer. I haven't tried the Seafoam yet. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Actually, you CREATE moisture in the oil this way. Warming it slightly makes it draw condensation. You don't get water out of the oil unless you run the engine at full operating temperature for at least 15 minutes - rule of thumb for me is half an hour. If I can't ride for 30 minutes...I don't even thumb the starter. Sea foam rocks. I have a snowblower that sits in a shed all summer - I always store them (snowblower, mower, bikes) with full to the brim, treated fuel tanks that I run for 5-10 minutes to circulate the treatment. Pulled the snowblower out this winter, hit the primer bulb 3 times, pulled the cord ONCE...and it started up and purred like a kitten, like I'd run it two days earlier. | ||
| Imadog |
Thanks Ratbuell. I will be sure to get Sea Foam next winter. I took my first ride this year just now. I wanted to ride earlier today after I gave it a good washing. Well... I gave it too good a washing and fouled out the rear plug. I blew all the water out of the connections for the ignition system, let it sit for a few hours, then replaced the rear spark plug. All is good and the bike rides better than I remember from last year. Fxdrydr: Good Luck with the new bike. Pictures please!! |
