| Author | Message | ||
     Mhlunsford |
So sometimes when I pull away from a dead stop I hear a squeel noise ? S2 with at atleast 34k miles. Is that the clutch saying new plates please ? Recommendations? | ||
| Harleyelf |
It's probably saying, "Adjust me, please." Slacken the cable. Remove the cover plate. Loosen the lock nut. Turn the screw out, then back in until you feel it touch the throw-out bearing. Back it off a sixth of a turn and lock it in place. Restore the cable to where it is almost under tension with the handlebars turned. Is your primary chain tensioner the new design? Is your final drive belt clean and adjusted to halfway between scary loose and silly loose? You should be able to touch the swing arm with it. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If it does it in neutral with the engine running... it could also be the 5th gear drive assembly. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Low speed squeal may be wheel bearings too. Be careful. | ||
| Harleyelf |
If your final drive belt has been over-tightened in the past, you may have a sprocket seal issue. Is all the transmission lubricant where it should be? Look clean? Any oily mess on the swing arm? If the fluid is low, you might get a squeal from the plates as they cry out for more Sport trans fluid. It's called a wet clutch for a reason. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Just fixed my squeek. Here is what it sounded like... When coming to a stop, from about 20-0mph, it would squeek. Same with 0-20mph. Sounded like it was coming from the primary. Here is what I found... I pulled the front pulley (final drive) cover off, then the two small screws that hold the "retainer plate" up against the big nut. By the way, the big nut is counter-clockwise for tight, clockwise for loose. The retainer plate was worn because the nut was backing off the pulley. Pulled the output pulley and the pulley spines were like slivers, almost ready to be spun on the shaft. This part was designed by HD to sacrifice itself if it got loose. Thankfully it worked as designed. What I replaced: Pulley $199 Nut, screws, retaining plate...a couple more bucks Rides out as designed. In fact, I was out yesterday and she was singing along and I grinning from ear to ear. See if this is what is going on with your bike By the way, here is a picture of what I'm talking about... see next post (Message edited by two_seasons on October 28, 2014) (Message edited by two_seasons on October 28, 2014) | ||
| Two_seasons |
here is the photo of the area I refer to (by the way this is a Sportster pic)...  Pictured is a 32 tooth pulley. Your S2 has a 29 tooth pulley (Message edited by two_seasons on October 28, 2014) | ||
| Firemanjim |
Early S-2's were the worst as the spline area was about 1/2 and saw several bikes that wore them out. Later versions had full length splines and not so much a problem. | ||
| Two_seasons |
I think what happened was that whomever did the prior service did not follow directions in the FSM. The FSM states something to this effect..."tighten the nut to 50 ft/lbs., then tighten just enough more to align the retainer plate screw holes, but no more than 45 degrees past the 50 ft/lbs. mark." | ||
| Buellistic |
"AND" the FSM does not say to put anti-size compound(copper compound) on the threads(anywhere there is metal to metal contact)SO YOU GET A PROPER TORQUE ON THE NUT !!! | ||
| 89rs1200 |
Ahh. Actually you want red locktight on that nut. that is what the mechanics do. My S3 has this issue. You do not want that nut to come loose or the sprocket will rock back and forth on the shaft and wear the splines down. Fix then is to replace the final drive shaft and sprocket. Two_seasons is correct on the torque. | ||
| Two_seasons |
The nut and the two screws come with a white goop on their threads from the factory. Every day my company has us torque with blue and red Loctite. |
