| Author | Message | ||
     Ezetobebad__uk |
So, I love my new (96) Buell S1 but I have questions for you folks if you have the time for me. I will number them for ease . 1 - UPRATED FORK SPRINGS - will they reduce 'DIVE' when braking & what pre load sag should I be looking for.....28mm? 2 - My original steel S1 swing arm is showing superficial corrosion. Can I replace it without modifications for an X1 swing arm, & are they better? 3 - I am experiencing - BACK FIRING, POPPING IN EXHAUST WHEN DECELERATING, WHAT SEEMS LIKE FUEL STARVATION (LURCHING) AT HIGH REVS IN TOP GEAR AT 120 MPH - WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? (I HAVE A KURYAKYN FILTER FITTED & SUPERTRAP EXTERNAL DISC EXHAUST FITTED), I AM NOT CERTAIN IF IT HAS BEEN 'JETTED TO SUIT' - SO COULD IT BE A JETTING PROBLEM? 4 - There seems to be little 'HP' gain by fitting exterior tuning/performance parts. So would a 1450 big bore kit be the most EFFICIENT option for more HP? cheers ezetobebad | ||
| Henrik |
1) depending on how much you weigh and your riding style, changing your fork springs and fork oil weight will likely improve handling. It's said that stock springs (any brand bike) only lasts a few years anyway. I usually contact Traxxion Dynamics for suspension components and advice. Good people. 2) the aluminum swingarm should fit, only needing a bit of machining/clearance on the swingarm mounting block, to work. You may need some extra washers for the rear axle, and the original inner fender will not fit either. 3) popping through the exhaust is often a sign of an exhaust leak. Check for cracks in the exhaust and possibly for exhaust gaskets not sealing. Make sure the studs are not stressed and that all nuts are present  Check that you have the updated front exhaust hanger bracket. 4) AFAIK your S1 has lightning heads?? Swapping them for a set of tweaked XB heads with matching pistons may give you what you want. A 1250 kit with matched heads/pistons should net you over 100 rwhp. Aaron at NRHS and Pammy at Cyclerama can steer you in the right direction. Henrik | ||
| Ezetobebad__uk |
Thanks, so, 1 - I weigh 200 IB & ride fast on •••• poor public UK roads 3 - front exhaust headder pipe mounting is broken (the one behond the front wheel). How & should I do a leak down test? cheers Hen regards ezetobebad | ||
| Road_thing |
Hen: What Henrik said! If the front mount is broken there has probably been stress on the whole pipe at some time. I recommend you pull it off and give it a thorough inspection, weld up any cracks or holes (or replace it with a larger diameter race pipe) and put it back together carefully with new gaskets at the ports. That ought to take care of any issues with the pipe. You also might want to take a look at the intake seals (between cylinders & manifold). That high-speed "lurch" you mentioned could be a result of a lean mixture, which won't be helped by a leak on the intake side. If you've got a leak there, you could burn a hole in a piston. Lots of good info in the Knowledge Vault on both of these subjects. Check it out if you have time to sort through the threads. rt | ||
| Bomber |
leak down test requires a supply of compressed air (buy the ticket, and Thang and I will fly right over!), and a gauge to measure the airpressure loss in the cylinder being tested -- one of the few tests I've not found a way to kimchee rig up something to do the same thing . . . dealers and indie shops should have one, but I"m thinking your problem is related to the busted exhaust mount . . .. I'm betting an exhaust seal has gone southm soon to be followed by a keader stud (you KNOW how I know, so don't bother asking!) ;-} | ||
| Rocketman |
What all those guys above have said. I liked the improvement when I fitted the Race Kit springs. Can you still not find any? The leak down test? I got the impression you were hunting for a leak in your exhaust system? Maybe I read it wrong so sorry if I'm spouting, but that's not a leak down test. Incidentally, Snap-On sell a fabulous and inexpensive leak down tool. It's a gauge and control knob built into a small plastic case (red of course), with two common plug size adapter tubes to hook it up to your plug hole. Attach the fixed hose to your compressed air line and you are good to go. Works fantastic! If you want to find real Buell power in the UK, talk to Steve (he's one of the partners) at Black Bear H-D, or again, call Martin at Warrs. Be prepared to pay. That said, I received a flyer through the post recently from Black Bear, and it seems they are promoting their tuning shop big time. Both the above mentioned have run race Buells in the UK. Trojan Horse up in the far north of England are board sponsors here, and they've had much success campaigning their XB racer in the UK. They have experience going back to the tube framers too. That said, they might be to far north for your liking. More so when the others are much closer I guess. Rocket | ||
| Newfie_buell |
I am 230lbs and 6ft tall. I have the race springs installed with 20w fork oil and find it to be a good combination for my weight. I also have the preload set correctly for the rear suspension. When Innes (Mr. Grumpy) was here and took my S1 for the week he told me it handled very roughly but he is only about 175lbs. If you are having trouble with race springs get me a part number and I will check with a couple retailers on this side of the pond. E-mail me the number as I have thrown out the box my springs came in. The S1 has to be one of the most appealing bikes ever built. | ||
| Two_buells |
here is a shot of my S1 with a 99 swingarm  | ||
| Tombo |
If your 96 has not already been converted to T-Storms then you are probably going to want either T-Storm or Firebolt heads, both of which are going to require new pistons anyway, so it may be worth considering a big bore kit. I have a NOS system myself, which I have yet to intall, but NOS or an Aerocharger will give you big gains as well. I agree with the other posts concerning race springs, at 215 lbs I am very happy with them. They drastically decreased dive. |
