| Author | Message | ||
     Saucier |
I drained my transmission oil, more came out than I had put in. I drained my oil tank and less came out. Is it physically possible for engine oil to leak into transmission??? 79,556 miles | ||
| Davefl |
Crank case seal behind stator. Common problem. | ||
| Buellistic |
The MOTOR SPROCKET OIL SEAL goes bad by the EXTRA "HEAT" caused by ADJUSTING the PRIMARY CHAIN "TOO TIGHT" !!! PRIMARY CHAIN ADJUSTMENT Class 101, just PM me for a copy ... You will also get DRIVE BELT ADJUSTMENT Class 101 ... Of course you need to replace the OIL SEAL, motor sprocket PN 35151-74A which was $7.40 in 2004 when "i" replaced mine ... There is plenty "INFO" on replacing this seal on BWB'ers because there is no special tool to do this ... If you need verbal help "INFO", just call me ... | ||
| Mighty_mouse |
While your in there you might want to replace the starter motor gasket and the shift shaft seal....cheap items. There are also vids on youtube on replacing the seal. MM | ||
| Buellistic |
"AND" remove the SPRING PLATE(aka GRENADE PLATE) PN 37977-90 ... Just PM me if you want a copy of the HOW/WHAT to do help "INFO" ... | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Early seal was a single lip design. Age hardens the rubber and it will leak, eventually, that fact that it's lasted so long may indicate the primary chain has been run according to proven specs, rather than the too tight number in the manual. The new seal design has been changed and now has a double lip, and is presumably a more robust rubber that will age better (as many of the other seals have been improved and upgraded over the years). There are multiple threads here on how its been done, and what particular pitfalls to avoid. It's not a bad project, but dumb mistakes that shade tree mechanics may make tend to come up regularly, I had more than my share of them (this would make me a dumb shade tree mechanic I guess) but Buellistic will get you set up with some great info. | ||
| Reepicheep |
A pair of nice sharp drywall screws, inserted very shallowly after carefully drilling very shallowly a very narrow hole just through the outer metal of that seal, and some heat is the easiest way to get that old seal out. Just don't let the drill hit the bearing behind the seal. Anything else will chew up that butter soft aluminum in the case. It will seal OK, but it makes you look like a hack for doing it. My apologies to whoever has my old M2.  | ||
| Littlebuggles |
You can also use a seal puller tool, suggest getting one with a small tip so you can hook the metal edge of the seal and just yank it out of there. After I got mine finished I found a seal puller at Harbor Freight that I was pretty sure would have saved me from a lot of head-ache and frustration. | ||
| Buellistic |
Littlebuggles can you do a picture and part number, "PLEASE" !!! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
This is the one that looked right when I was in there last, not long after I completed my project. I'd like to get eyes on it again to verify for sure, will post up a "yup" after I go by the local store this afternoon: http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-69025.htm l I eventually used a slide hammer with a hook on the end to get mine out after mangling it a bit. Tried a bunch of different pry bars and a brake spring hook, after the screw option failed for me. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The last one I had to fight was an old seal in a KZ-400 front fork. I went to my local harbor freight and bought the sealand wheel pullers they had on the shelf that looked like they would have a prayer of fitting, and none did. Then I used the screw method and the seal was out in 5 minutes. I think it works because it gives you a lever to bend the seal inwards with, which helps "unstick" it. FWIW, YMMV, etc. | ||
| Buellistic |
Littlebuggles: "THANKS !!!" | ||
| Reepicheep |
Oh, and that one Bggles listed, and the slide hammer one he tried, were NOT ones that the local harbor freight had. So they may work well. I went there looking for that slide hammer puller, but they didnt stock it locally. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Well I'm looking at the tool in the store now and gotta put down a resoundingly firm... maybe. It may be too big, but I'm pretty sure the multi ended puller, pn# 35556 looks less likely a option than the one I posted the link to, which was pn# 69025. My experience was entirely opposite of Reep's in that the screws tore the seal up and bent up the lip, without ever getting the seal to shift. Slightly modding the home end on the slide hammer gave enough purchase and force to finally pull the seal loose. I do however own an official installer tool, and my home built tool as well. So I can loan either one out if needed. |
