| Author | Message | ||
     Kaikoura |
Good morning. I have the special wrench on order..I was able to remove 3 out of the 4 bolts easily.. The last one on intake side front head is being very stubborn,(Hence the new tool coming).. However is it safe to use MAPP gas on the head area surrounding,,my propane one just doesn't seem hot enough to break her loose.. | ||
| Jayvee |
If you already tried propane, seems like MAPP wouldn't hurt. If you have a extra long bit, can you get an impact driver on it? I mean the old style hand-held one... If by 'special wrench' you mean the one with the ends bent at 45° angle, I never use mine. The outer bolts aren't too bad, but still I replaced them with regular head bolts. For the inner I haven't found the $20-something wrench nearly as useful as just an extra-long bit. (Message edited by jayvee on February 24, 2014) | ||
| Davefl |
I had the same problem when I rescued my S1.. Since I was going to replace the intake gaskets anyway I forced the intake from the flange and that made room for locking pliers. | ||
| Kaikoura |
Al from American Sport Bike suggested putting the bolt back in on the opposite side of the stuck one and tighten back up that one..apparently binding can occur of the side Im having trouble..Ill keep you posted | ||
| Kaikoura |
@ Davefl..I was thinking about that option too..push one side of the into the stuck side remove the opposite side? Is that what your saying? | ||
| Jimi_james |
I had the same problem on my M2. It was the first cylinder lower on the intake side. I removed all three bolts and was able to move the manifold around and the bracket or flange on #2 cylinder moved right out. Once the manifold was out of the way I used vise grips the remove the bolt. The manifold has some play back and fourth and if you can get on flange removed you should be able to remove the manifold. | ||
| Kaikoura |
Way cool Jimi james.. I have visions of pulling the head off.. The little shoulders on the manifold don't roadblock the idea? Im hoping we get out of the polar vortex soon so I can try this operation again..T | ||
| Davefl |
What Jimi said. | ||
| Kaikoura |
Grade 8 bolts are strong enough not to break? | ||
| Jayvee |
Not an engineer, but I think so, the torque value isn't that high. Also you can get "Grade 9" from McMaster-Carr, also called 'F911' bolts from Allensfasteners.com. | ||
| Kaikoura |
Jayvee..the bolts on the bike as we speak are grade 8 Might have to be brave and go for it | ||
| Lynrd |
all non stainless allen head bolts are supposed to be grade 8 or better | ||
| Jayvee |
If it's "stuck", would that be a problem with the grade, or a problem with the coating, or lack of coating, like cadmium vs plain? For the stainless bolts, there's a Grade 8 'equivalent' as far as tensile strength I got some of those here and there. | ||
| Lynrd |
Good to know re: Stainless and makes sense... | ||
| Firemanjim |
And when you put it back on replace the clutch side allens with short bolts,makes it way easier to get to. | ||
| Kaikoura |
Is it possible the engine is too darn cold for fasteners to come out? Its been about 20 degrees and less since Xmas I got the new wrench if fits well,, I will try that manifold removal option..but I think Im just spinning my wheels until we go above 32 for awhile.. I can barely hold on to the metal bits with bare hands...  | ||
| Kaikoura |
I GOT IT OUT! That stupid little f*** bolt. I heated the ever loving piss around the flange and head then just went for the gold..   Now on to the next phase..T..  |
