| Author | Message | ||
     Tirebiter |
I have a set of new bars that I asked a fabricator to duplicate. He mentioned that it would cost $100 per set for 10 sets without the polishing. These bars would be made out of stainless. If I can get 9 people to be interested in this I would have him start on the job. I could have several sets done with more lift also. PM me if you have interests. I will do this for cost. Steve | ||
| Hootowl |
I'm interested. | ||
| Jolly |
Well.... I guess I'm interested.... Exact copies of the touring bars or slight modifications? | ||
| Jolly |
What about a copy of standard bars? One of mine is either bent or they never matched to begin with.... Anyone else have this issue on an S2?? | ||
| Sportyeric |
Yes, Jolly. My standard bars feel perfectly symmetrical but look completely different at the clamp. | ||
| Tirebiter |
Jolly - Making a std would be the same process - no problem. | ||
| Buellish |
I would like a set of "T" bars. | ||
| Jolly |
my only "issue" with my standard bars is that they feel "off" due to the way they look, haven't ridden my S2 much to determine if they line up at the handgrips but they sure look often and it drives me insane! so I would like a new set that match to the point that one side is perfect "mirror" of the other....so I guess Im in for a set, just need to determine standard or "T" bars. when he makes his jig is he going to exactly copy a set (which will only repeat the error) or build a mirror set. I know...seems like a lot of questions for something so simple as a set of bars... my apologies up front...  | ||
| Tirebiter |
Jolly - He will construct a jig for each side and they will be a mirror of each other. This may take several jigs for this project. He has tube bending skills and is a supreme welder. Remember the bars will not be polished. We need 6 or more takers. | ||
| Jolly |
OK I'm in...a perfect set of mirror left to right bars would be a welcome change for my brain....I have chased bars before...its kind of a quirk of mine...let me sort T or Standard...but I'm in.... how are other folks finishing theirs...powder-coating? chrome plating? | ||
| Buellish |
I'm thinking black powdercoat.Like Steve,my S2T is Quicksilver Metallic and I've got black accents on it already. | ||
| Tirebiter |
The fabricator has all the powder coating equipment too - I'll check what he charges. | ||
| Koz5150 |
Is there an issue with getting Buell handle bars that you would have to look for someone to fabricate them? I have a touring set in my garage that I tried out on my M2 but ended up going back to the stock M2 bars. (they may have gotten tweaked when i went down at the track 8 years ago, I will have to look at them) | ||
| Davefl |
S2's have a sort of clip-on.. S2T bars have been made of unobtainam for years. | ||
| Ratbuell |
S2 bars are completely different and have been pretty much unavailable for years. If you tried a set on an M2 I'm going to venture a guess they weren't factory S2 bars. They don't interchange with any other Buell. | ||
| Buellish |
I would guess he was talking about S3T bars.I've seen people put them on M2's before. | ||
| Ratbuell |
That's my guess as well. S3T / Blast bars are a popular touring swap for any tuber (other than an S2). | ||
| Jolly |
Do you have an update on this? do you need a certain number ordered before he goes into production? I am in for one set, just not sure if I want standard or touring. Were you able to get a price for powder-coating? thanks! | ||
| Beardo |
I have a set of S2T bars for sale if anyone is in need. | ||
| Screamer |
S2 handlebars often did not match at the outboard end, which would cause a feeling that they were always out of adjustment. Out of the three different bars offered for S2s, the touring bars usually had the most variability. They can be "adjusted". To confirm that they do not match, get the bike vertical and pointing straight ahead. Position the bars by using a matching measuring point on each side (rider foot peg to bar end) and then measure the distance from each bar end to the ground. If the bike is level and the bars are positioned equally - the distance to the ground should be the same. If they're not - they can be "adjusted". The way that I've done on several is to remove the bars from the bike and remove the left grip. Set both bars on a flat surface and point the outboard ends towards each other. If the ends do not match you'll need to either lower the highest one or raise the lowest one. If they're the low or mid-rise versions, you should consider raising the lowest one because tank shell clearance (especially for the right side throttle cables) is often a concern. If they're the touring versions you may to consider lowering the tallest due to potential fairing clearance issues. The bars can be "adjusted" by determining which bar you want to move and what direction. Secure the bike, Re-install the bar and using a cheater bar, move the bar SLIGHTLY in the direction you want the end of the bar to move. They move much easier than you'd expect. Once you have the ends at the same height they can be reinstalled. To match the positioning, install the right hand bar to a comfortable position and then confirm tank shell clearance at full right turn position. You can place the left bar in a similar position. Insure the bike is upright and pointing perfectly straight ahead (vertical level on both discs) and then measure from the bar end to matching point on the bike (tip of the rider peg). Make the left bar measurement match the right and they should then feel "even". If you like the position, be sure to confirm that full left / full right creates no contact wiring or cable issues. If the bars have an extreme difference in height and you've confirmed they are both the same version, you should probably examine them both to certain there are no indicators of severe tweaking. Kinks, stretched or peeling chrome may indicate a replacement is needed. | ||
| Screamer |
Last spring, the touring bars were still available. We ordered and received two sets. | ||
| Tirebiter |
I have been away from this post for a while and it doesn't seem to have the steam I though it would. When I can get 9 individuals to want this I'll will start the process. Steve | ||
| Jolly |
Jolly - 2 sets / powder-coated black(if we get more than 9 I will drop my request to one set) | ||
| Screamer |
Confirmed today that the original Z0500.8 kits are gone. Tirebiter's offer ------ a great deal. | ||
| Jolly |
Tirebiter - at least 1 set (?) Jolly - 2 sets (with a caveat) look...were at three!!! 0nly 6 to go! | ||
| Ratbuell |
I can scrape up enough $ for a set of T bars for my '95. It has EVERY other T goodie...except the bars. Red Snap with white frame. What thinks the group about white bars - or should I put a breathalyzer tube on my laptop keyboard?  | ||
| Phelan |
Joe I think white bars would look sweet  . | ||
| Hootowl |
I'm in for a set. When you say "unpolished" what part of the bar are you referring to? The clamp? | ||
| Jolly |
so were down to only 5 to go..... | ||
| Tirebiter |
The bars would be fabricated from unpolished materials (304). Polishing could be done after the construction. Remember that we are trying to keep the price down. The fabricator told me he would charge $40 to powder coat if necessary. Has anybody noticed S2T bars interfering with the fairing when turned to the fork stops? | ||
| Lynrd |
I have S2T bars on Rhonda - I have not noticed any interference with the fairing at all. I also have S2T bars on Gloria - but she has a custom fairing, so any interference there is the fairing fabricators fault (i.e. - mine). | ||
| Ratbuell |
I can make my non-T bars hit the fairing at full lock...if I turn them way out of whack on the forks. Height doesn't make them hit. Side-to-side angle does. | ||
| Lynrd |
That makes sense. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Sorry. I have to quit doing that.  |
