| Author | Message | ||
     Mitty |
Just put on some Blast bars so I can sit up a little more, and like the position, but the clutch cable hits the gauge housing and creates a excessive drag on the clutch. Anybody have a remedy. I'm thinking I need to go to a 57" cable, then route across the face of the speedo gauge and over the top of the housing.??? BTW, just bought this tuber, a 2001 cyclone and have fallen in love, after 10 sporty's. Don't get me wrong, I'm still a devout sporty fan, but, this thing rides like a dream. | ||
| Buellistic |
Just so you know, BLAST Bars are the same as S3/S3T Bars ... You will just have to IMPROVISE a little ... Check your PARTS BOOK that you should have ... CLUTCH CABLE(00 BLAST) PN 38616-00YA (97 & 99 S3/S3T)PN 38656-96Y | ||
| Fasted |
you will have better luck with stock bars and risers......those bars don't work well with the dual gauge cluster. damhik | ||
| Jayvee |
I took off the metal routing guide, and put the cable down the other side of the steering stem. Also replace the clutch cable guide down on the engine mount with just a loose cable tie. Now it's no problem. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
I notched the housing and slightly bent the guide at the lever. Been working great for last 12 yrs.(same cable)  | ||
| Mitty |
Thought about a notch, & rerouting the cable. already took off the metal routing guide. I have in the last hour pulled the cable completely and will pick up some lube tomorrow, lots of resistance. Thanks for some common sense replies guys. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
The metal guide is key to a smooth pull. I would put it back on. | ||
| Jamie04 |
I installed these bars on both '02 Cyclones that I have owned. On both I bent the metal cable support at the lever into a tighter arc, and used a loose cable tie in place of the rigid cable clamp on the frame. On the first one, I also notched the plastic tach/speedo housing for handle bar clearance. On the second one, I instead cut the bars in the middle and welded in a 3/4 inch spacer which widened the bars and allowed enough clearance to avoid notching the plastic housing. (However, if the bars are widened more than 3/4" they will likely interfere with the fork tube adjustment nuts.) (Message edited by Jamie04 on January 14, 2014) | ||
| Mitty |
Ended up using turbine oil. Made a funnel fit the cable end last night, caulked it, let it dry till this morning, hung it , put a fair amount of oil in the funnel. oil dripping out the bottom after about 6 hours. No resistance. will put it back on tomorrow. I know I should have used a dry lube, but hey, this things 12 years old. If it gums up, I'll buy a new one. Will put the guide back, and will most likely cut the notch in the gauge housing. Thanks again. | ||
| Rex |
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| Davetooch |
damn that bike is sexyyyyy ^ | ||
| Jayvee |
I think the book recommends 30 weight oil dripped through for a day, like you describe, I think I used 5W30 though. I tried to notice today, my clutch pull seems fairly smooth without the metal guide on the perch. One other experiment I'm going to try is my Barnett super-slippery 3" longer clutch cable. When I change the handlebars I'll try it, putting on handguards too, so I'll try stock routing with a longer cable. I have S3T bars and 1" risers both on my M2 now. |
