Author |
Message |
Run1fsr
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 12:11 am: |
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Hey Guys, I’ve been riding Harleys for years and recently acquired a 1999 Buell Thunderbolt. One issue with my bike involves replacement of the secondary drive belt. Yes I have the correct service manual; however, noted steps to remove / replace the belt are somewhat vague. Having read the manual ... should I take-out the right side isolator & bolt? Appears to me that I must, but the manual indicates not to completely remove. Wanting to confirm that, I've performed numerous searches regarding correct procedures. But search results were mixed with nothing I could find specific to the S3. Most of the information I did find pertained to XBs & M2s Would someone kindly advise me where to find detailed instructions or a link addressing this job … again, specific to my Thunderbolt. Thanks in advance for your assistance and this great site. (Message edited by run1fsr on December 17, 2013) |
1313
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 12:16 pm: |
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The right side isolator will definitely need to come out in order to replace the belt on any tuber without a removable sideplate. For the components in that area, an M2 and S3 (of 1999-2002 vintage) should be pert near identical. So I would think that the M2 info you found should be exactly what's needed to guide you. I'm sure others will chime in with more detailed info, 1313 |
Kalali
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 01:50 pm: |
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Also make sure you adjust the belt very loose. The belt should touch the swing arm if you press down and push up with no rider on the bike. That's another important tidbit that the factory manual leaves out. You may find this link helpful when trying to remove the isolator. http://danielcstarr-pages.blogspot.com/2008/09/una uthorized-scott-free-technique-for.html |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 01:59 pm: |
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While you are in the neighborhood, think about the seal under the sprocket. It's easy to replace and often has damage from over-tight belt adjustments. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 02:20 pm: |
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Belt replacement on 97+ tubers, with the notable exception of the X1, is a PITA. Why they didn't all come with the removable side plate is beyond me. Service manual says to lift the frame and the isolators off of the swingarm mounting block, which is fairly time consuming. The "scott free" method noted above is your best bet, IMHO. You only have to take out the right side. |
Jim2
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 05:08 pm: |
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Here is some pictures, including belt adjustment: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/661750.html?1325819613 |
Run1fsr
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 06:42 pm: |
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Wow … just got home and saw all your responses … Thank You !! I’m going to read through the steps provided several times tonight and get my head around it all. I do enjoy wrenching, however, I will need to get myself psyched-up for this little project. More than likely I will have some additional questions so please bear with me. Thanks again. |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 07:49 pm: |
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The Kastar Isolator tool really makes the isolator and belt change job a LOT easier... http://www.toolsource.com/rear-isolator-replacemen t-tool-buell-p-130855.html Al |
Buelljunkie
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 10:42 pm: |
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$62.95? Hell you can't go wrong with that! I'll be ordering one. Thanks Al! |
S1owner
| Posted on Tuesday, December 17, 2013 - 11:17 pm: |
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This is sim to what your doing http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=20 &aid=327 |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2013 - 01:44 am: |
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Damn that bike in the Twin picture story is dirty... But that looks like the Kastar tool being used. It works reasonably well, but it could be more heavy duty. Handle it reasonably carefully and it'll stay together for a while. These tools work by compressing the isolator on the far side enough to allow the near side isolator to slip out. Folks have called it a frame spreader tool..it is NOT a frame spreader, or it isn't supposed to be. But if you don't remove the rear tie bar/heim joint, it'll either spread the frame or break the tool, so don't forget that step. Al |
Kalali
| Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2013 - 08:36 am: |
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"Damn that bike in the Twin picture story is dirty... " Was just thinking the same thing...Must be the streets of Amsterdam.... |
Wesbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, December 18, 2013 - 11:13 am: |
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Hahaha...the state of the bike was also the first thing I noticed a couple of days ago when I was reading their update. The second thing was the tool that they used to compress the left iso, and I was wondering what it was, thanks for clearing that up badwebbers. |
Beardo
| Posted on Friday, December 20, 2013 - 03:17 pm: |
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I'm a cheap bastard. I 'made' my own tool. A bolt, two nuts, two washers and two deep well sockets and I was in business... |
Firemanjim
| Posted on Friday, December 20, 2013 - 07:11 pm: |
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Too funny that it lists the S-2 and S-2T as models it works on!!! |
Run1fsr
| Posted on Monday, December 23, 2013 - 12:22 am: |
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Success … my new drive belt is on and the right side isolator re-installed. Thanks to all your tips and suggestions, the job went smoothly. I took my time and spent most the day working on it, including a run to Home Depot for parts to build my spreader tool. It will be next weekend before completing, as I also must rebuild my rear brake caliper and master cylinder. Thanks again and Merry Christmas |