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Jolly
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2013 - 09:18 am: |
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My S2 finally arrived! this was bought for me, well picked up for me and spotted the cash to buy it as a surprise) by my buddy a week before my wedding in July. the bike was delivered when my folks came to visit last weekend. its a 95 model and has less than 10k miles on the motor, super trap exhaust, PM wheels and I believe that's it for the mods. carb has been cleaned by my buddy who was a little bored...brand new mirrors, I just put tires on it and I currently have 14 discs on the super trap exhaust with the close out plate on the rear. I managed to get it started after some time...change the fuel etc...though I didn't run it very long..it gets a full fluid change before really doing anything else to it. Ive got a rack for the s2 style bags, a set of bags and I also have a conversion rack for s3t style bags on the s2 and a set of s3 bags for it.
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Jolly
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2013 - 09:23 am: |
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it has one of the tabs broken off for the body mount points, which is the same point the bag rack is mounted...ill have to have that welded on.....nice surprise...but while I am having that repaired I am thinking about having tabs welded on to the very rear loop for structural mount points for the bag racks instead of those rubber coated tin metal loops with eye holes for suspending something from a tube.... see other thread, but, anyone have any concerns on welding extra tabs on to the rear frame loop while I am in having it repaired anyway? or do the rubber coated loops work just fine? they seem that after a period of time they will break and since I am at the welders shop anyway and gong to burn off some powder coating repairing a tab, I ought to do the others at the same time... |
Jolly
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2013 - 09:28 am: |
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Broken frame tab...
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Jolly
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2013 - 09:30 am: |
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front right fork leaks, guess I get to learn how to tear into ROMA forks...I have been paying people to do fork rebuilds but time to learn! Ive done more complicated stuff for sure, so its a don't know how, not a case of I cant do it... however, this one is leaking out the top under the red cap...seems odd or expensive?? any expertise or experience? |
Jolly
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2013 - 09:38 am: |
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and now for the surprise...motor was leaking..oil so I cleaned it up real well to trace down the source.... how big a problem is this going to be??? PO (or is that "POS-PO" JB welded the case and didn't disclose it during the sale!! and he was the original owner!) the first thought, and how I found it was something loose, so while I was crawling under the bike I found it. I went ahead and checked the torque on the long bolt that holds the top of the L bracket exhaust hangar and then captures the shock mount bracket on the other side..it was loose...I set it to proper torque and it significantly cut down the oil leak...but it still leaks a little... I took a chance and rode it around the neighborhood small cul de sac to see what it would do and it did not puke more oil or change the leak rate... thoughts? recommendations? experience?
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Lynrd
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2013 - 11:28 am: |
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Is it leaking from the JB Weld repair? JB Weld can be pretty good stuff - Years ago I used it to finally repair a set of knuckleheads around the intake port. Since those heads are cast iron - welding in the area was a no-go. If you know old engines - the old plumbers manifold area had a chip missing the size of a nickel - I put in the O-ring adapters with red loctite, then used the JB Weld to replace the missing chunk. Never had a problem and the engine is on the road to this day. I also have known a pretty well respected machinist use it to salvage an old oil pump body - smeared it on, let it harden, decked it smooth. Shame the former owner forgot about that part, but it likely is a sound repair for a rider if he did a good job. Otherwise, it's going to be a tear down to do it right. |
Jolly
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2013 - 12:38 pm: |
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It looks like its leaking from the point that the shock mount plate mounts up against the engine case... Is not leaking through the case in the middle of the JB WELD repair on the case...not sure of the damage inside, but the motor runs, and it doesn't puke oil, it just leaks..... |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2013 - 02:01 pm: |
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Not sure what to say on the JB area...but I wouldn't worry about adding bag-tags. I've had bags on my S2 since I got it, and they were on it lord-knows-how-long before that...30k and climbing, no broken clips, tabs, bags, or brackets. They're more for locating the rack than for supporting it. |
Jolly
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2013 - 02:22 pm: |
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Well the consensus thus far seems to be to use the rubber coated strap hangars..... Good that's cheaper for sure, just thought as long as I was having a tab welded on I might as well do em all....if needed... |
Fahren
| Posted on Saturday, November 09, 2013 - 03:37 pm: |
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Jolly, you should search the old school history for some links to Joe (Ratbuell's) extra bracing he welded on to the bag support racks. It's on my "I'll get to it some day" list; since you are there now, it might be something to look at. |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 - 06:22 am: |
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Maybe an idea to try repairing that case with some aluweld!? something like this, http://www.alumiweld.com/ (Message edited by Brother in buells on November 10, 2013) |
Steveford
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 - 07:21 am: |
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Wait until Dave gets back to me on how he repaired my Norton crankcase. He's a Mr. Wizard type and can give you the definitive answer. That guy is just astonishingly talented and is a walking encyclopedia. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 - 10:43 am: |
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I'll save ya the search Added the brace (green line) years ago. The tab takes a standard bag-attachment dzus fastener, and the brace keeps the bags from bouncing and flapping over bumps. Bag on, you never really see the brace other than about three inches between the bag and the footpeg.
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Kc_zombie
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 - 11:19 am: |
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Gee, that carbon fender looks nice. I really would like one for my S2T restore instead of the plastic one. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 - 01:49 pm: |
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Depending when your S2 was built, plastic may be correct for your bike. |
Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 - 03:12 pm: |
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Well the bike is at the welder's shop getting the broken tab and two more added to tie in the rear of the rack, I figure since it was already getting welded, might as well take advantage of the expertise and time and just do it all! Nice additions to the rack! I'm setting mine up with a3 bags and the buell conversion rack for s3t bags has the support legs to the rear peg mounts like the did on the S3T bikes. Bike should be done getting tabs welded today.... |
Rex
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 - 09:34 pm: |
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the brace looks like the S3 version of the bags, right? REX |
Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 - 10:40 pm: |
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picked the bike up from the welder's today, had the top tab for the tail replaced (which is also one for the tabs for the bag mount), and two new tabs on the rear added. Im not a welder, but it looks like he did a great job, very nice clean weld, barely burned any of the powder-coating off so it doesn't look like it got too hot, nice prep work.... looks like a very clean job, and he turned it quickly on a Sunday afternoon drive-by with an introduction from the guy who does my painting.
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Jolly
| Posted on Sunday, November 10, 2013 - 10:46 pm: |
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Rex, yeah, yours looks like the S3 version of the bags for sure! next up, fluid change and see if any metal pieces come out ..... both forks leak, So Im going to swap them outright and then find the time and learn how to rebuild these forks.. do a brake job, change brake fluid... its missing a nut on one of the header studs so probably pulling air in at that point...may swap out the exhaust studs since I have some sitting in a box, and replace all 4 nuts and gaskets... then sort this motor.... |
Jolly
| Posted on Thursday, November 21, 2013 - 06:06 pm: |
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Well I have the motor sorted...sort of...I bought a 98 S3 motor off the forum..THANKS JEFF! so now I work a motor swap so that I don't have to worry about the integrity of the stock cases. Of course while the motor is sitting on the bench before it gets bolted up, it will get the standard stuff...XB rocker box conversion, oil pump drive gear probably the billet front motor mount and grade 9 bolt set from American Sport Bike, and of course the upgraded primary chain tensioner. sure didn't need the unforeseen expense of swapping motors, but at least there was one available when I needed it! |
Jolly
| Posted on Thursday, November 21, 2013 - 08:20 pm: |
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OUCH!! very expensive evening....bought the motor and then called American Sport Bike....Ive spent enough money to buy another bike...but then I would have another bike and still not be any closer to saving this S2. so headed this way are: ~98 S3 motor ~billet motor mount ~new bolts ~front and rear isolators ~billet breather back plate ~XB rocker box conversion ~breather catch can ~oil pump drive gear ~appropriate gaskets a few tools that with 4 Buells I cant believe I haven't had to buy yet.. ~manifold wrench ~pinion gear nut locking tool ~primary locking tool might need a header, but simply couldn't afford it by the time I ordered everything... peanut butter sandwiches for Thanksgiving! I have to save enough for beer and wings for Steve since he so graciously volunteered to come do some heavy lifting for the motor swap!! |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Friday, November 22, 2013 - 12:04 pm: |
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If you are going to carb the biker like a stock S2, don't forget to change the timing cup. The S3/X1 will NOT work. Here's a shot of both. Guess which one is which!!!
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1313
| Posted on Friday, November 22, 2013 - 12:34 pm: |
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If you are going to carb the biker like a stock S2, don't forget to change the timing cup. The S3/X1 will NOT work. The 98 S3 - what Jolly says the motor was sourced from - was still carbed, so I don't think the above information is a concern in this instance. FWIW from an outsider looking in, 1313 |
Jolly
| Posted on Friday, November 22, 2013 - 08:28 pm: |
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The motor is a carb motor so all should be good, however, excellent note! I could easily see my self screwing that trick up!! Good one to file away! Shipping number from Jeff, he pulled that motor for me the same night I paid for it! Shipping numbers for parts from American Sport Bike..... Engine stand ordered..... It's possible everything will be here before thanksgiving and I can spend the holiday working on motor getting ready for swap!! Wife is going to see sister and new baby, I'll stay home in garage! of course I'll be in trouble after she gets back of a week of kids and new baby..... |
Steveford
| Posted on Saturday, November 23, 2013 - 05:33 am: |
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No beer needed for me as I don't drink. Over Thanksgiving would be the ideal time to heave the motors around. |
Jolly
| Posted on Saturday, November 23, 2013 - 09:23 am: |
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Plenty of coffee then? I think all of my parts and motor will all be here just prior to Thanksgiving weekend. my plan is to take care of all the upgrades prior to the motor swap while its easier to work on ..out of the frame.. only issue is the rocker box covers are not ready from Al at American Sport Bike, he sold his last polished set and has to send a set out to get polished, I could always pull a set from my S1 just so that we can fire the motor up then install the ones that are coming late on the S1. So I do have a "work-around" for that little issue... |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Saturday, November 23, 2013 - 11:11 am: |
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Or just fire it up stock. Rockerboxes are an easy swap in-frame...I put black ones in my S2, stock from a '10 Ulysses. Kinda "hides" the fact they aren't stock. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Saturday, November 23, 2013 - 11:14 am: |
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...I also had to use two fronts, so the rear valve would clear the underside of the tank. |
Jolly
| Posted on Saturday, November 23, 2013 - 01:22 pm: |
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I have read that some people have to use two front covers and others don't have an issue...is there that much variance in the frames or tanks to cause that kid of difference in clearance? |
Lynrd
| Posted on Saturday, November 23, 2013 - 01:50 pm: |
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Rhonda runs a normal set of covers front and rear. |
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