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Jolly
| | Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 11:27 am: | 
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thanks.. yeah, by "tighten up the drive belt" I mean... need to "make the drive belt a little less loose" since its currently just sitting over the rear pulley with the rear wheel all most all the way forward and the axle only finger tight, I had to pull the belt off the front pulley to clean something up, so need to "make it less loose"..
and I found my carb was leaking at the fuel inlet elbow, carb comes back out, pull the brass/plastic elbow and replace with a CVP max fuel inlet, solid brass fitting.. found the problem and the solution thanks to the thread here about leaking carb. sure glad I read that one! |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 11:36 am: |
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Glad I could help. Tapping the inlet and jacking it out with a bolt worked like a champ. |
Jolly
| | Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 12:09 pm: |
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yep, just finished tapping it and removing it, tried to pull with vice grips first...just to see.. waste of effort...but the tap and pull method worked perfectly! |
Jolly
| | Posted on Monday, March 17, 2014 - 08:40 pm: |
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ebay link for fitting
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brass-Fuel-Inlet-Fitting-f or-Keihin-CV-Butterfly-Carburetors-Harley-Sportste r/131142585180?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trk parms=aid%3D222008%26algo%3DSIC.MOTORS%26ao%3D1%26 asc%3D21144%26meid%3D5550760567350687514%26pid%3D1 00005%26prg%3D9373%26rk%3D0%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D18135 2390722&rt=nc
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Keihin-Carb-brass-replacem ent-fuel-inlet-all-Harley-CV-or-Butterfly-76-up/32 1224502541?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparm s=aid%3D222008%26algo%3DSIC.MOTORS%26ao%3D1%26asc% 3D21144%26meid%3D5550760567350687514%26pid%3D10000 5%26prg%3D9373%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D181352390 722&rt=nc
a "local" (ok not quite, but I was able to get it on a Monday from a shop that was open...) HD shop had it in stock for about $12.00 |
Kc_zombie
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 18, 2014 - 12:01 pm: |
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HSR42, problem solved!  |
Jolly
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 26, 2014 - 08:34 pm: |
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carb problem resolved with the brass fitting, worked like a champ! bike fires right up and really runs well, no oil leaks and no fuel leaks, fires up quickly and the throttle response for a CV carb is right on, no pops or cackles on the deceleration and quick snappy throttle action brings a matched response from the motor.
S3T bags are installed and I'm using X1 turn signals for the back since they fit into the pockets perfectly and I had a set sitting around.
last issue I had was the brake light was staying on, but got a little brighter when I stepped on the rear pedal, I pulled both connections from the rear brake switch and the brake light stayed on... so its a front switch problem.
pulled the brake lever and shifted the little plunger with the plate attached and the light went out so I used electrical cleaner and a little WD40 to clean the plunger on the switch and it works perfectly so it was just gummed up.
I've got to swap out the front forks since the ones on the bike are leaking then sort paint for the body and the bike is finally done! |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2014 - 01:46 pm: |
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You likely didn't have the brake perch close enough to the reservoir. If there's a gap, the brake light won't turn off. Been there. |
Jolly
| | Posted on Thursday, March 27, 2014 - 06:45 pm: |
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the switch was really "gummed up" even with the brake lever pulled it still wouldn't release, it was really sticking.. |
Jolly
| | Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2014 - 08:33 am: |
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The bike is almost complete!
I am down to swapping out body work to Black-Saphire once my fender comes in and I get it painted, the tank cover needs a little touch up as well so as long as I am painting the fender that will get done, then the bike will have all new paint.
I also need to sort out how to secure the seat..... the lock that is on the white body work doesn't work, cant turn the tumblers at all... and I have a tail that's brand new in black saphire and that lock doesn't work either...???
are these locks keyed specific or are the locks "blanks" like on a fuel door where any key will work? when I bought the black saphire tail I did not get a key with that lock......
I have the metal "tongue" that locks into the seat, but if anyone has a success story with something different that would be greatly appreciated!
I'm also working on billet shift linkage with the machinist I used for the side plates, such a beautiful bike deserves something better than the boomerang "contraption"...
then its a nice long shake down ride, maybe a two day trip after I get a local 200 mile ride in.
list of mods and work done to the bike:
- S3T motor
- S3T ignition module with adapter to connect to bike harness
- hardened oil pump drive gear
- cam cover cut down
- zippers collapsible push rod tube covers
- XB style rocker box covers
- catch can
- new shift shaft
- powder-coated a very rough primary cover and derby cover
- painted cam cover (I didn't powdercoat as I had heard that during curing the cam bushings can fall out, but no one here as confirmed that so the next one I do will get powdercoated)
- powdercoated top motor mount/tie-bar bracket
- powdercoated carb hold down/ air cleaner mount plate
- jet hot ceramic coated header
- powder coated rear exhaust heat shield
- American Sport Bike billet and CF air filter base and cover
- custom side plates with X1 kick stand
- custom drive arm support brace
- pulley cover with CF center disk from American Sport Bike
- billet front motor mount/new bolts from American Sport Bike
- new isolators
- new oil lines
- custom shift linkage (in work)
- X1/XB style turn signals (needed something that would fit the pockets of the S3T bags)
- S3T bags and conversion rack
- tabs for bag rack welded on to back of frame loop
- AVON low profile grips
- Supertrap megaphone muffler with 12 discs
- new mirrors
- body work in Black-Saphire (in work)
- S3 foot pegs (just didn't like the spongy stock things)
- new exhaust studs/gaskets and flange nuts
- new gaskets for each job above and new bolts if required at any point
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Steveford
| | Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2014 - 09:52 am: |
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Just in time for Spring, too! |
Zenbiker
| | Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2014 - 10:12 am: |
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Nice build David. I have been following your posts for a while. That bike is really looking great.
I have asked the same question about the rear lock, with feedback being more 'how to get around without the lock than options on how to fix it'. Of course, I always appreciate feedback from fellow BadWebbers. In this case, I have not gotten to the point of abandoning the lock and therefore am still looking for solutions. I had a bad one that I took apart (OK, it kind of fell apart) a while ago and realized that the lock is not that complicated (or well built for that matter). I am going to start looking for a better solution, starting at big box stores, moving on to specialty lock stores. If I find a reasonable solution I will post it up.
Good Luck! |
Phelan
| | Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2014 - 11:01 am: |
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I've been told that you can get the barrel locks at Lowe's or Home Depot. The lock is keyed, but it should be keyed the same as the original bike key, as well as the bags. On my last S2 in my profile, I finally ditched it and filled in the hole. This S2 didn't have one, but I'd like to find one. Actually I'd like to find a whole set of matching locks for the bike. |
Kmbuell
| | Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2014 - 11:03 am: |
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David, lock for seat should be keyed to ignition. Locksmith can rekey these, but not the S3 bag locks. I had the ignition and tail keyed to match the bags. |
Lynrd
| | Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2014 - 11:53 am: |
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One (Small) horror story related to that. Shortly after I got her, I had a locksmith cut a second set of keys for Rhonda. Testing the new key the very first time in the seat lock broke the lock. It would no longer turn with either key. Either key would operate the ignition switch, though.
As I was about to take it for a long ride, this was a real conundrum - surest way to ensure that you're going to have a problem is ride around with something like that going on - My registration was under that seat...
After staring at the problem for a while, I decided about the only way I was going to be able to get the seat off again was to go through the top.
I cut the Corbin seat carefully around the back, folded back the cover, cut the foam carefully, and managed to take a dremel to the rivet head holding the retaining strap on the seat. It really, really hurt to take a razor to that seat...taking it down to Corbin for repair (about an hour ride) has been on my to do list forever, but with a good application of 200 MPH tape, it is holding together in the meantime.
The lock occupying that hole now has no hasp on it, and my seat is retained with velcro. I would have bought Phelan's seat (or swapped some parts ) but I really like the white piping on my seat.
Nice job on that bike, Dave! I like that Ice White Pearl!
(Message edited by LYNRD on March 30, 2014) |
Phelan
| | Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2014 - 01:45 pm: |
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Thst's terrible John! But I can relate about necessity. Did you think about just drilling out the lock? |
Jolly
| | Posted on Sunday, March 30, 2014 - 04:05 pm: |
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Thanks for the compliments and all the help along the way! this has been a great project that I certainly got further into than I thought I would have to!
once I get the new bodywork on Ill post another photo! |
Lynrd
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2014 - 12:09 am: |
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Like I said - I stared at the problem for an hour. I considered drilling it out, but I assumed the lock was tool steel and I didn't want to be that close to the ( excellent condition) fiberglass with a hand drill for that long.... |
Phelan
| | Posted on Monday, March 31, 2014 - 12:20 am: |
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that makes sense. |
Jolly
| | Posted on Sunday, April 06, 2014 - 07:22 am: |
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front forks are replaced, now I have a re-buildable set of Romas to add to the parts bin. I dropped the brand new front fender off (probably going to wish I had just bought the carbon fiber one from American Sport Bike..) to get painted Black Saphire, and also dropped off the tank cover to get touched up.
I think I'm going to leave the lids black, that way I have options on body work... on the fence but...
once I sort the cable and brake line guides/stays as they attach to front fender this bike will be done! |
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