| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
Looking for the cable that goes from the race muffler to the primary adjuster mount bolt, to keep you from having a "pole vault" should the muffler inlet fracture. I took the M2 out for its first 65 miles in 3 years, and it ran well. Couple leaks (top of the transmission - starter, or stator plug, or something)...wonky idle at one point (gonna check the intake seals)...and the aforementioned cable broke. The Buell recall / bulletin was B034. Looks like the part number is 94002Y. | ||
| Ratbuell |
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| Dave_02_1200 |
Joe, I had retention kits installed on my M2 and S3 as a free recall. This was after HD killed Buell so maybe they are still available at some former Buell dealerships. Looking at them, I think I could easily make a better looking retainer with some stainless flat stock. | ||
| Tll130 |
I've got a race exhaust on mine and I don't have one of those cables I'm guessing I should look into gettin one? | ||
| Screamer |
Depending on the inlet type (front inlet tube to the cannister) you may not need the tether kit. Tether kits are still available for Servicing dealers that are performing the recall. | ||
| Darren |
These kits were for the early race pipes. The later mufflers don’t need it. I ordered one from my local HD Shop about a year ago no problem. I wanted it for peace of mind. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Peace of mind for me too. Any visual on new versus old race mufflers? | ||
| Tll130 |
I looked at mine today and I have a clamp that goes over both the muffler and the exhaust tube to make a tight seal and it bolts on the top of the outlet end of the exhaust with hangers | ||
| Screamer |
The mounts changed a few times on the early recalled mufflers, but that's not a reliable way to tell the difference between the recalled mufflers and the (very) late mufflers that don't need the tether. The suspect mufflers have a front section (cap) of the can that is flat where the inlet tube enters the cap. Basically, a hole in the cap where the inlet tube enters, creating a 90 degree intersection that has a weld that joins the flat face of the cap to the tube. These require the tether. The later mufflers have a front cap that has a flare that extends forward at the hole where the inlet tube enters the cap. The weld is forward of the cap face and the flare shares the load, and the joint is unlikely to shear - no tether required. I haven't been able to locate a late style yet, once I do, I'll post photos of both. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Screamer - thanks. I'll check out both of mine and see if there's any difference. The kit on my S1W has been holding fine; the kit on the M2 sheared after a new installation at the eyelet where it bolts to the primary bolt, effectively leaving a loose cable attached to the muffler, and a washer under the primary bolt. I can always go to Lowes and buy 6" of cable, a swage tool, and make my own cable...been thinking about getting a swage tool anyway... | ||
| Darygon |
After reading these posts i decided to call my local dealer in Santa Fe New Mexico, no problem. Greg at the parts counter ordered me one $10.25 + tax, it'll be here next week. gotta be happy with that | ||
| Bandm |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/6121.html#POST57817 | ||
| Ratbuell |
Sweet. Keep us posted please - I want to make sure I have the right part number. Checking out the bike tonight...that particular muffler has a hairline crack starting around 7 o'clock, stretching around the bottom to about 4 o'clock. Definitely want to tether it! |
