| Author | Message | ||
     Cupcake_mike |
So, 99 m2 about 33k miles...I am riding home from work the other morning and my gauges shutoff, bike is still running good. I pull into the garage and grab the multimeter, 9 volts at the battery...I check the easy stuff, battery cables, grounds and wiring, all is intact. I pull apart the stator to voltage regulator connection and test continuity of the stator and get 1 (damn). Put the bike on the battery charger, get it back to a full charge, start it (with the connector still apart) and get zero voltage output from the stator. So I am going with my stator is shot. Am I missing anything else here? Where can I get a good one to replace it? Are the aftermarket options worth a damn? Can't say I ever been real impressed with the way the factory one looks like it is made. | ||
| Hughlysses |
The nice thing about the factory part is it's the same as a Sportster and your local HD dealer almost certainly will have one in stock so you can get one quickly. Not sure if the aftermarket ones are any better. Most people suggest replacing the voltage regulator at the same time, since when one goes the other often follows close behind. Install tips- put a shot of RTV around the plug where the wires exit the back of the primary case; this will help prevent leaks. Clean the crank and nut threads with brake cleaner and use liquid red Locktite (not the paste stuff) when installing the crank nut. It takes a while to get the thing on and get the thing up to torque without tipping the whole bike over. The paste stuff can set up too quickly and then it won't hold properly. DAMHIK. Make sure you're not running gear oil (I forget the GL rating, but basically no 75W-90 or 90W stuff) either. Some of the additives in that will cause your stator to fail quickly. I've had good luck with HD Formula+ on both my tuber and my Uly. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Drive sprocket, right hand thread. Clutch basket, left hand thread. | ||
| Buellistic |
Run the same oil in your transmission as you run in your engine ... "WHY DO YOU ASK ???, well if the motor sprocket oil seal goes bad you will not get transmission fluid in the engine by way of the bad oil seal !!! | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
Replaced it my stator with an accel unit, seems to have fixed the problem. Only had to pull the primary twice (doh!) I always forget to use the drill bit to set the shifter pawl. | ||
| Ratbuell |
if the motor sprocket oil seal goes bad you will not get transmission fluid in the engine by way of the bad oil seal !!! Um...you won't get primary fluid in the engine anyway. The engine side of that seal is PRESSURIZED; the primary side is splash-lubed. A bad seal will leak engine fluid FROM the engine, TO the primary, because of the pressure differential. But I know you knew that...  | ||
| Buellistic |
As tight as some of these primary chains are adjusted, there is enough heat generated to kill the inner seal too !!! | ||
| Ratbuell |
There's still pressure on the engine side, and not on the primary side...that's why a main symptom of a failed crank seal is an OVERfilled primary, because the pressurized engine bleeds past the seals into the primary and the primary doesn't have any pressure to push back with. | ||
| Buellistic |
Could that be because when be piston goes up the other is coming down ??? | ||
| Ratbuell |
It's because the engine runs a pressurized oil system that includes an oil pump. The oil galleys in the engine have oil under pressure, and that pressure is what circulates the oil through the engine. The primary has no pump, no pressure, it is simply a cavity filled part way with oil, and the spinning chain/stator/clutch is partially submerged and it splashes the oil around the inside of that cavity as it spins. | ||
| Ratbuell |
For a visual on the pressurized oil system (from an M2 manual): Red is pressurized/feed. Blue is non-pressurized/return.  | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" put a PCV valve in my timing plug hole to relieve this pressure ... | ||
| Ratbuell |
That is not the pressure I'm talking about. The seal leaks because of oil pump (fluid) pressure. The PCV valve relieves crankcase VENTILATION pressure, which is the airspace inside the crankcase. If a PCV valve relieved oil pressure...your engine would seize because the oil would not circulate. The PCV valve relieves the AIR pressure, and nothing else. | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" see on the drawing the PROOF READER missed drawing in the oil pressure feed to the motor sprocket drive shaft bearing ??? | ||
| Ratbuell |
The drawing only shows the cam side of the engine (where #18 shows the pressure lube to the cam bushings and mainshaft bushing). There was no drawing (that I could find; I'll search other manuals if you want) that showed the stator side of the case. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Stator side, as I'm reading the drawing, would be from the right hand side of #10, in the left-side (front view) drawing.... |
