| Author | Message | ||
     Mbsween |
Well the X1 has been doing fine after the engine rebuild, about 1200 Miles on the clock. Then an odd thing started happening last week. I'd come out to the bike, turn the key and nothing, no dash lights, no speed lights, no fuel pump noise, no headlight. Oddly enough the brake light was on, turn signals worked and horn worked. So I had the AMA towing service bring me home and started looking into it. i replaced all the fuses, nothing, I replace the 2 relays. I replaced the relays with BWD part R3146. I got them at autozone. That still didn't work, but somewhere along the way I wiggle the key in the ignition and the lights came on! (Battery is good btw) So now I started riding again and it's starting to turn off even while riding. I'm guessing there is no fixing of the part, is as simple as it looks to replace? Anyone using the switch from Al? (American Sportbike) Thanks matt | ||
| 46champ |
My 99 M2 started having problems about a year ago the key switch wouldn't always turn off and the tail light would stay on. If you wiggled the key it would go out. Just recently the battery just went dead thought it might be the battery but kept tinkering found out it was still the switch. New buell switch is over 200 dollars because it has a wire harness with it. Harley switch is about 80. Then I realized that the drag bike switch is kind of the same except it has terminals on the switch so I put ring connectors on the harness now my Buell has a switch with a real key. Drag bike now has a toggle switch. | ||
| Jramsey |
I'm guessing there is no fixing of the part, is as simple as it looks to replace. Yep,install a new one. The "D" shape on the back side of the dash will have to be enlarged as the Drag Specialties switch Al sells is a tad larger. Use a die grinder. 3 red wires. Red to red, reverse the white and black tracers,black to white,white to black for proper ignition key positions. } | ||
| S1owner |
Agreed mine did the same | ||
| Kyrocket |
Mine started doing this about 2006 or 07, riding down the road and just shut off dead as a door nail. Wiggle the wires behind the windscreen and came back on. Ended up putting in a lighted rocker switch (the kind that come with fog light kits) and without the bracket the switch itself snaps into the hole in the headlight bracket. | ||
| Thejosh |
Same here I replaced with one from American Sport bike. | ||
| Kalali |
Al's switch here as well. Follow what JR said above. The only down side is the extra key. I personally don't mind it. And if it were me I wouldn't ride the bike until its replaced. It really hurts to get rear-ended even at very slow speeds. | ||
| Mbsween |
Kalai, Wish I'd read this yesterday. I ended up pushing the bike a mile or so to get back home. I was reminded of younger days pushing dirt bikes along the road before I had a license (I found that riding an off road bike on the street garners quick police attention). The only difference is the Buell weighs 450, so it was a bit more work! Al's switch is on order. Anyone ever try to re-key the switch from Al? | ||
| Oldog |
Yes not recommended, ( I wrecked the switch ) its not intended to be opened at all and in doing so you damage it so that re-assembly is dodgy. Go to a locksmith and get a different key made ( many shops have colored plastic top covers and the like, my ignition key for the X1 is brass vs the plated one from Buell ) Im with Kal on this the second key is a minor issue, Good luck | ||
| Hootowl |
Little known fact, the current for the starter solenoid winding runs through the ignition switch. I believe this is what causes the contacts to burn and fail. I still have my original ignition switch, but the contacts are toast. They don't pass enough current to engage the starter. However, they will pass enough current to operate a relay, which I wired up behind the dash. Now the current for the solenoid runs though the relay. Bike starts just fine. And if the relay contacts burn up, I've only got to replace a $3 relay. | ||
| Mbsween |
Hoot owl, Mine failed physically. For a short time if I pushed the key all the way in it worked. Now nothin! Did you disassemble the switch? | ||
| Yo_barry |
I didn't do this, but understand that you can peel the Buell cover back on the key so you can get the key number. With the key number you can order a HD Dyna switch that matches the key and fits perfectly in the hole in the dash. When mine failed, I bought a barrel key switch from J&R cycles. It mounted in with no problem. I've had two keys for the S3T since that. Barry Hollister, CA | ||
| Hootowl |
I did not disassemble the switch. I'm still using it, and I've heard that there is no non destructive way to take it apart. | ||
| 96s2t |
Tried to see if I could repair my S2 round barrel ignition switch. Not possible. You can not even hardly see some of the springs and shit that fly out when you take it apart. Trust me...just buy the cheaper quality switch from drag specialty and solder your three wires to the back of the new switch. It's the vibration that saws the key into the switch parts. It is a good idea to remove the switch from the keychain and just use the key by itself. | ||
| Gremmie7 |
2005 and earlier Dyna ignition switch works as a replacement, and they can match your key at a dealer. | ||
| 96s2t |
Just bought a cherry 1999 X1 and the ignition switch looks the same . | ||
| Jramsey |
Easy way to test the switch is to ride for about 30 minutes and then touch the bottom of the switch where the wires come out with a bare finger and if it feels hot its going south. | ||
| Alfau |
Believe me you can fix these switches and it's fairly easy. I had two dead ones with nothing to lose so I cut one in half, then was able to fix the other. You will need to prepare for the reassembly first or metal filings will end up in the works. Drill out the old retaining rivets holding the plastic plate cleanly to allow removal of the cap. Drill to a depth of 1/4" or a fraction more.The rivet is now completyly removed and nothing is holding the plate in place but it is very tight. Don't remove it yet. At this point you need to use a drill the size of the self tapping screws that will hold the cap on after reassembly. I used small headed teck screws. Drill to a depth on new retaining screws. That done and metal dust blown away, the fun begins. Carefully open it up. Be careful not to lose springs and ball bearing. Removing the plastic end is easier said than done but definately doable. Inside you'll find a L shaped brass contact plate which is pressed up onto the contacts with two little springs. the centre spring will be bent and dry and the contacts dirty.replace the springs with a zippo lighter flint spring cut to size with mums scissors. I drilled a hole through the plate while it was off to allow for lubrication with wd40. When you lubricate turn the key on and off as you spray. | ||
| Paulson |
Thanks to Alfau's post I repaired my switch too. This lasted for a short while though because my wiring had been getting hot for a long time and deformed the contact end pretty good. So, instead of paying $150 for a new switch and key set from the dealership I picked up a $7 part at Fry's and didn't even have to mod my mount point.  | ||
| 96s2t |
It's nice to know that there are some talented people out there that have the time, patience and skill to repair these switches with such small parts. My monkey fingers do not do well when trying to maneuver these micro springs back in place. Also, these switches fail for a reason. They are worn out. I would much rather through $150 down and get a new part that will last for another 15 years. Or I could just send it to one of you guys??? | ||
| Qzpm150 |
If someone could help me find an ignition switch I would really appreciate it! I have been looking forever. I do not mind carrying an extra key if I have to and trying not to spend too much. Also some back story in case it might help someone later. I've been having problems with a "misfire" issue that has been to the shop many times. They say its clogged injectors but it keeps returning. Then my ignition switch failed and read over at the x1files that someone had the same issue and a new ignition switch fixed it. so now that the weather is getting warmer I'm itching to get back out there. Thanks guys! | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Steven, Something like this could work, http://www.jpcycles.com/Search/ProductDetail?sku=3 700020&N=0&Ne=0&Ntk=All&Ntt=ignition%20switch&Ns=D efaultSort&results=10&No= http://www.utmc-forum.org/pub/viewtopic.php?f=4&t= 16609952 | ||
| 96s2t |
Trust me...just buy the cheaper quality switch from drag specialty and solder your three wires to the back of the new switch. It's the vibration that saws the key into the switch parts. It is a good idea to remove the switch from the keychain and just use the key by itself. "DRAG SPECIALTIES" | ||
| Qzpm150 |
Does anything need to be modified to get the jpcycles switch mounted? Do you happen to know the part number for the drag specialties switch. I searched ignition switch and it came back with a bunch of results. | ||
| 96s2t |
I don't know the part number but it is a direct replacement for the Buell switch and mounts in the metal Buell switch hole, has a 3 position barrel key and has 3 wires but no 3 pin connector. You have to solder your old Buell wires (with the 3 pin plastic connector) to the back of your new switch, after you use a soldering gun to remove the 3 wires off the new switch. Make sure you have a really hot soldering gun and use plenty of solder to secure the new wires to the new switch. Look for a Drag Specialties switch with a barrel key and 3 wires. | ||
| 96s2t |
Look above at brother in Buells post. That's the one! | ||
| Xb12r_guy |
Hey Hootowl! Can you share how you connected the relay to the ignition switch? I just got a 2001 X1 and after purchasing a factory switch, the switch failed. I'd like to perform the same mod so I reduce the chance of being stranded somewhere nowhere! Thanks Ed |
