| Author | Message | ||
     Dano1z |
Rode the x1 to work today, noticed when I got there after 30 miles of hwy driving clutch cable and handle were really loose and when fully pulled, it still wanted to "pull" forward a bit. Went to adjust the clutch cable, and the adjustment is "froze"tight. Previous owner let it set in rain. My opinion, new clutch cable. Thoughts? Thanks, Dan | ||
| 01x1buell |
soak it with some penetrating oil, it should come loose. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Yep, soak it. The adjuster is only a threaded barrel with a nut on it. Once you free the threads, you'll be fine. Once you get it adjusted and put everything back, put a zip tie at each end of the rubber boot - that should help keep water from getting inside the boot and crusting your adjuster again. | ||
| Dano1z |
When I changed the primary case gasket I tried breaking it free and all it did was twist back and forth. Might need to put a new one on. It's wanting to move in 1st great with the clutch pulled in (Message edited by dano1z on May 15, 2013) | ||
| Essmjay |
The lock nut on the adjuster might just be really set hard against the barrel adjuster. Takes two wrenches to release it, one on the barrel, one on the nut. | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Please don't take this wrong, but these bikes require regular preventative maintenance to avoid these issues. They are just to damn old to ride hard and put away wet. Imho that is... | ||
| Thejosh |
PB blaster!!!!! | ||
| Dano1z |
Thanks for the info guys, Kc Zombie, bought this bike with 18,xxx on it, ive been doing as much preventative maintenance as possible. Hopefully, these jobs start to slow down | ||
| Kc_zombie |
Dano, I understand. It can be an uphill battle, thats for sure. I am sure you will get it back up to par. Good luck! | ||
| Buell_bert |
I got this awhile back from my brother in law and it is interesting. No guarantees warrantees or otherwise implied. (Jim) I fully understand that not all of you will be interested in this, but sometimes a need arises for something that you’ve just happened to learn that comes in handy at the time. Penetrating Oils Machinist's Workshop Mag, April 2007 edition published some information on various penetratingoils that I found very interesting. Some of you might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for breakout torque on rusted nuts. They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment. *Penetrating oils ....... Average torque load to loosen* No Oil used ................. 516 pounds WD-40 .................... ... 238 pounds PB Blaster ................... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench .............127 pounds Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds ATF*-Acetone mix.......53 pounds The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 / 50% automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. *ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid This actually works well, power-steering fluid also works as well as trans fluid! | ||
| Buell_bert |
As much as it is nice to soak something and have it come loose I usually prefer a oxy-acetylene axe when in doubt. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bert, kind hard on a clutch cable though...  | ||
| Jayvee |
Liquid Wrench! Have had the yellow can in my garage ever since I can remember. Acetone's got some serious fumes. | ||
| Fahren |
Yeah, but it takes your nail polish off like nothing else. | ||
| Oldog |
Acetone, I would stick with the Liquid Wrench | ||
| Ratbuell |
9/16" nut. 1/2" adjuster barrel. My trick is to position the wrenches in a "V" shape when on the fasteners so I can just squeeze the two together to pop the fasteners loose. Helps with leverage for stuck fasteners. | ||
| Dano1z |
Everyone, thanks for the responses. Soaked it in pb blaster , found a can in the garage, and got the nut loose. When I turn the bottom adjuster barrel, the whole cable spins, plastic coating and all. That's not supposed too happen right? | ||
| Ratbuell |
The adjuster is supposed to spin freely, not attached to anything. Does the *other* end spin freely? IIRC, one half of it is fixed to the cable, and the other half is free... | ||
| Dano1z |
Ratbuell, Neither end spins freely. Im assuming the adjuster end is the bigger piece of the 2, below the nut, when I try and turn that, the whole cable, all the way down to the primary spins. |
