| Author | Message | ||
     Islanddave |
Hello All, I recently bought a 2000 cyclone with 24000 miles. I have put about 650 miles on it so far in about 1 week. I have kinda beat on the bike meaning I have rarely ridden slowly. Prior to this the bike had not been run in about two years. The bike was mechanic owned and he did all necessary fluid changes and adjustments. Two issues. Firstly there appears to be a bit of oil sweating coming from the front of the engine case behind the oil filter. It is definitely coming from where the cases mate together right behind the oil filter. Not the base gasket and not the rocker boxes. It is a very small amount. Is this something that I should be concerned about. I opened the stock filter box to find that there was a certain amount of blow by oil that had collected there. Is this normal? The oil level in the tank is good. I check it hot, on the side stand and it shows up between the two fill lines. Second I think the clutch might be slipping. It only happens in first gear and only when the bike is not fully warmed up. When I shift from first to second the bike will increase in rpms but not go faster until something grabs and then the bike lurches forward. It is very very brief. Once the bike is warmed up it doesnt happen. Does this sound like a slipping clutch? I have yet to check the clutch adjustment but I will as I will be changing the clutch cable out because I think the one in there now is quite old. Thanks Dave | ||
| Hootowl |
I experienced that clutch symptom on an older Honda. I replaced the clutch, which did not fix it. Turned out to be the clutch cable. It wasn't releasing all the way, even though there was slack in it. It just had a tight spot in its travel, right at the engagement point. Just enough to make it slip for a second. If you suspect the cable is shot, I'd start there. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
The sending units are bad about seeping oil(below filter),either way, just keep an eye on it. On the clutch,check to make sure your fluid level is not too high(just touching the teeth on the clutch drum) And if you don't know whats in there, change it.Next, your adj. might be too tight.Re-adjust clutch by the book...don't have one, get one...you will thank yourself many times over. Also when you check the level, look at the clutch arm and see if someone has put an EZ pull set-up in there. Some of them can cause you grief. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Hootowl has a point on the cable, had that happen on one of my dirt track bikes. Couldn't tell till I took the cable off.(wasted a lot of time and money on plates before I found it) You can hang the cable up and shoot penetrating oil in it until it runs out the other end, then work the inner cable back and forth till it's good and free, plus clean out the crud in there. Best solution is buy a new cable. | ||
| Islanddave |
Ok I installed a new clutch cable and adjusted the clutch...although it wasn't out of adjustment. The issue persists.It only happens when the bike is just barley warm, and then nver happens after its reached normal op temp. Could a rear drive belt do such a thing? I mean can they skip a tooth until they have heated up. The oil issue continues although it is very minor. Oil weaps very slightly from between the crank case halves directly behind the oil filter. Is this a case of poor crankcase venting? Any suggestions. The thing that sucks is that this bike is otherwise leak free.....its more of an annoyance, but i hope it doesnt develop into a problem. I remember reading something about faulty umbrella valves under the rocker covers could this be a cause? Thanks Dave | ||
| Kilroy |
I have had a slow leak under the primary for about 8 years. Have never been able to identify the source. Never been an operational issue, just an annoyance. Just check your primary fluid level (and engine oil level if you are not sure of the source of the leak) occasionally. I doubt if poor crankcase venting is pushing oil out between your case halves. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Well XB rocker tops would be a good up-grade. Then you could take out the umbrella valves and put solid bolts to hold the carb. bracket.Their not expensive. As for the clutch....inspect the belt for worn or missing teeth, but I really doubt it's the belt. However it might be possible for a bad spring plate to cause this. You have to take the clutch apart to get to it.Most get rid of it.It can cause some serious damage if it totally fails.Best I remember, it's two steel and one fiber used to replace it. I removed mine a couple of years ago, just to be safe. Plus you end up with a stronger clutch. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Regarding the oil blowing into the airbox, don't try to keep your oil level in the middle or it will probably keep doing that, my experience has matched that of others in that it will blow off excess until it's in its happy place, somewhere a bit lower on the stick. Mine like to have the oil just over the lower line, and it will stay there all summer long if I leave it alone. Shifting sounds like maybe a worn second gear dog, look it up, a few people here have posted their experiences with this here. Seems common enough, and pulling the tranny out isn't really all that tough so if you're going to inspect your clutch you might as well pull the tranny too. The S1 manual (pdf) in the Knowledge Vault will get your through this if you haven't got a service manual for your M2 |
