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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through June 13, 2013 » '01 X1 won't stay lit when warm « Previous Next »

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Forerunner
Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2013 - 08:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Folks,

A little history: '01 X1 bought last August w/~4700 miles. I installed a Forcewinder and rode it for few hundred miles. She ran fine but wouldn't start on cold mornings without applying some throttle. Also, until warmed up she had some bucking around 3k RPM. Otherwise ran fine.

Just recently installed a D&D full system and performed a TPS reset for grins prior to a remap(which I still haven't done). Took her out for a ride after TPS reset and she ran like a scalded dog! I couldn't believe how well she was running w/Forcewinder and D&D, BUT after a few miles and getting warmed up she died on me.

I just took her out for the first time since and she runs great until after a few miles and then dies. Won't stay lit without constantly applying throttle.

ECPSpy shows no error codes, AFM is at ~110%. I have not remapped BUT looks like PO put the Race map on her.

Suggestions on what to check for appreciated.

Thanks,
Nels
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, April 28, 2013 - 08:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If spark plugs are fouled, and will barely idle, and is running on one cylinder, two sometimes, could be your ETS (engine temperature sensor). When bad they tell your ECM to go into skip spark, telling your ECM that engine is overheating.

ETS is recessed down into the rear cylinder head. You will need a socket tool with a slot in it to remove/install. You may also want to change out your O2 sensor while you are there. Cheap and then new on the bike. Break the back end off and easy removal with a socket. PB Blaster or Rust Eater 24 hours before and should come right off.

Here is where you can find new parts...
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16079.html

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17035.html note socket tool within this part description. Makes the job easy. Al or Joanne at American Sport Bike are excellent resource for Buell parts.
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, April 29, 2013 - 09:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You should verify that it is running the race map. Stock map is too lean for that pipe.
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Forerunner
Posted on Monday, April 29, 2013 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the replies all!

Two_seasons: Any easy way to check the ETS and O2 sensor? I've got a full service manual I can check when I get home.

Would either of those items allow the bike to run like a champ for the first few miles but then require constant throttle to keep from flameout?

Hootowl: ECMSpy tells me I've got BUEKA210 01-21-00. Is this the correct map for this setup?

Thanks again all!
Nels
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Hootowl
Posted on Monday, April 29, 2013 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm pretty sure that's the stock map for an 00 model, but I am not 100% certain.

Since the exhaust and intake were stock when you acquired the bike, there's every reason to believe that the fuel map wasn't modified either. Your AFV being 110% is an indication that it is running lean in the learning area, so it bumped fuel 10% across the board. That doesn't mean it's correctly fueled outside of the learning area, which on the tubers is a pretty narrow set of operating conditions.

I doubt very much that this is causing your problem, however. Where's your idle RPM?

(Message edited by hootowl on April 29, 2013)
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Kalali
Posted on Monday, April 29, 2013 - 01:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The best way to check the ETS is using a hand-held temperature gun as a reference. Just point the laser/light at a spot near the ETS and measure cold (should read the same as IAT), warm, and at operating temperature. Mine reads around 170C at operating temp using the temp gun and few degrees off on the ECMSpy. You can also add a little fuel to the cells in the idle area but do it in small increments and after the full remap.
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Forerunner
Posted on Monday, April 29, 2013 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Since the exhaust and intake were stock when you acquired the bike, there's every reason to believe that the fuel map wasn't modified either.

Agreed, BUT I wouldn't put it past the PO to have an aftermarket intake/exhaust with remap and then returned the exhaust/intake to stock w/o a reflash prior to selling.

I doubt very much that this is causing your problem, however. Where's your idle RPM?

Agreed. My idle is hovering just over 1k When I start her. After warmed up as stated above she won't idle w/o throttle input.

Kalali, thx for the tip!

Will try to do some more troubleshooting and post some ECMSpy screenies later tonight.

Thanks!
Nels
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Hootowl
Posted on Tuesday, April 30, 2013 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"My idle is hovering just over 1k When I start her"

It's supposed to idle above 1K when hot, though I've set mine at 900 or so. Should be a bit higher when cold.

Find your idle adjust cable, and set it a bit higher. I adjust mine higher for starting, and then drop it back down after it has warmed up.

It could be that a simple adjustment will fix it.
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Forerunner
Posted on Monday, May 20, 2013 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Fixed.

After weeks of not doing anything due to frustration, I figured I'd try again.

Would not start. Turned over and would fire once and then nothing.

No error codes.

Checked grounds. Turns out the ground wire to fuel pump broke. It would make just barely enough contact to fire BUT as soon as she did the vibration would shake her away again and then death.

New end on the ground wire and she fired right up. Took her out for a 10 mile ride and wrung her out. During the downtime I put new 2ct's on her so was ginger on the corners.

She ran like a scalded cat again but AFV's around 110 so need to load race map.

Regards,
Nels

PS. While the X1 was down I used the Cr as my DD. JFC what a machine. I love all my Buells but GD that Cr is something else!
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Firemanjim
Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2013 - 01:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You could try resetting AFV and the add 5 clicks to rear cyl learned fuel area and see how that does.You have a lean spot in there that is adding fuel to entire map.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, May 21, 2013 - 09:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The AFV would go up if you applied a freer flowing intake and exhaust.
Your bike adapted. Adaptive Fuel Value.
Just because it's not 100 doesn't mean somethings broke.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Wednesday, May 22, 2013 - 01:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yup adapting in that area, have you seen how little the learned fuel are is on an X-1?? And because that little area has a lean spot it applies that change to the entire map. Ideally you want all that area to be 100%.
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