| Author | Message | ||
     B1rdman |
It had been running fine for a week or so now...and suddenly it started popping on decel. Not the machine-gun stacatto stuff...but just a random... "POW...gurgle gurgle POW" gurgle gurgle gurgle." Would skip-spark create that symptom? And if so why am I skip-sparking? I have noticed that on initial warmup/startup it has a weird uneven lope to it. Like "bubb-bump-bup, Bubb-bump-bup", Bubb-bump-bup". I can create a vid if that would help. I do know that it has an exhaust leak...could that just be getting worse and causing this? I've tightened it up some but to no avail it seems. I'll have to order new gaskets I guess. | ||
| Jramsey |
I do know that it has an exhaust leak...could that just be getting worse and causing this? Sounds like a nobrainer as far as a place to start with.Leaky exhaust gaskets can also cause popping under acceleration. Gaskets are about $4-5 a set.} Skip spark mode is caused by excessive heat,I doubt it this time of year in SC, my S3 did it last year at the S2 Roundup in the Ozarks.103 degrees in heavy traffic. Skip spark symptoms are: won't run worth a shit under 2,500, Idle hangs at whatever it feels like 2,000-4,000 while missing all the while then suddenly dies without warning while turning left at an intersection with an oncoming ready mix truck fast approaching.......no fun. } | ||
| B1rdman |
Popping is during DEceleration btw..and not at partial decel, but full decel.. Here's the thing...it's had a leak since I bought it a week or so ago...but just now has started popping. Where's a good place to get those gaskets (new, not used?) And man, that sounds horrible haha | ||
| Jramsey |
#17048-98 at your local H-D dealer,some say to put them in the freezer for an hour or so before use,helps shrinkem'for install.I install out of the bag. | ||
| B1rdman |
If I'm cruising down the road and maintaining any speed, let's say 3000 rpm, I can FEEL it slightly jerking or hesitating every other second...subtle movements, kind of as if I were being buffeted by a strong frontal wind, but more mechanical feeling. Makes me think vacuum leak but since there's no carbs it can't be that, right? And despite the known exhaust leak, does it make sense to you that it would suddenly start showing these symptoms? | ||
| Jramsey |
I can FEEL it slightly jerking or hesitating every other second. I'd check intake seals after replacing the exhaust gaskets. BTW the fuelie motors with their lumpy cams don't really run smooth under 2,600-3,000rpm. } | ||
| Jramsey |
does it make sense to you that it would suddenly start showing these symptoms? How long have you had this bike?} | ||
| B1rdman |
The slight jerking symptoms are at any constant rpm. This isn't a "not running smooth cause of cams, etc" but a something is allowing air to escape or come in that isn't supposed to, feeling. 2 weeks I think? | ||
| B1rdman |
I found my exhaust leak. It went from a minor ticking...to an occasional loud pop on decel...to very often popping on decel...to a big exhaust leak.  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Wes it's welding time!  This made me think about some time ago when i had my xb popping and making all kinds of nasty noises on accel and decel but it was pulling like a train ,it was funny to pisses off some hd bikers  Lucky me it were only to tiny leaks on the exhaust gaskets and no cracked header. Now it has new gaskets and sometimes i do miss that popping ,but i do know this is better for the engine and exhaust system! Good luck with the header repair! | ||
| Alfau |
Your bike will tune itself if you learn how to do it. Some important information for newbies on how the Fi system works here. http://www.buelletinboard.com/forums/showthread.ph p?2665-Buell-DDFI(A-must-read-for-all-FI-Buell-owners) | ||
| B1rdman |
Thanks Alfau, I read up on it.. As soon as I get my cable in the mail I'll reset the TPS, A/F, and whatever other tuning needed. Gotta fix this header first though. Do these engines require valve adjustments? | ||
| Essmjay |
You got off lucky that the pipe cracked instead of the head. I would have it tack welded before taking it off the bike for finish welding since it has obviously relieved some stress, no point in closing it back into stress mode. | ||
| Jramsey |
Do these engines require valve adjustments? Nope, hydraulic lifters.} | ||
| B1rdman |
So just get the weld started and then pull it off to finish? | ||
| Preybird1 |
Holy cow i am literally AMAZED those studs didn't break also!!! Look at it more closely it looks wrong like it's missing a washer on one side and the studs look different?? Longer?? No maybe tightened to much on one side and with only 30% gasket left behind it.......Ill put money on it!! And the header has made a nice size dent into the head itself or the exhaust gasket mounting port itself! I had so many issues with the stock header and stock exhaust studs breaking. That before i started the bike i would hit the header with my palm and if it went DING then there was space in between I KNEW THE GASKET WENT BAD! The exhaust gaskets they use on these systems and many other bikes don't do well when an oxygen leaks is introduced. The little gaskets glow like a lantern mantle an fry like an egg. Tightening one side like that is a no-no......Not saying you did it, but ill put money on it and that is what is going on. Oh and your going to love how the exhaust system comes off this bike! Get a nice D&D system for ease of work and power. (Message edited by preybird1 on April 22, 2013) | ||
| B1rdman |
I wish I had the money for a nice D&D or whatever exhaust...right now I'm only able to afford a free TIG weld from a nearby friend. | ||
| Alfau |
The headers are stainless steel.Make sure whoever welds it are aware.use stainless welding rods. Could prove expensive,be careful how this repair is carried out. | ||
| B1rdman |
He was going to TIG weld them...sound right? | ||
| B1rdman |
They say that the 17048 gaskets are for aftermarket exhaust (screaming eagle) and that the stock gaskets are recommended. They are much thicker. Thoughts? | ||
| Arizona_buell |
Oh man Sorry that is brutal, I can't look. I think you are going to have an issue with the belled out portion that holds the clip. Tig is the way to go for sure. Get a good spot on it wherever you can reach. If you can get any weld inside it may help because you will likely have to remove any weld that sticks up where the flange has to go over it. It may have to be annealed so it does not crack again, but I am no expert. | ||
| Alfau |
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbUqFfItdA8 Google search. | ||
| B1rdman |
Got the header off. Completely split all the way around. Didn't affect the little flange/lip portion though. Gonna see if my friend can weld it (TIG). He does it for a living. Howe does this O2 sensor look?  Pretty white all around with soot at the base. | ||
| Coxster |
I found the SE exh gaskets were a pain to get into proper position, so I went to the standard gaskets. I'm pretty sure my M2 with std gaskets will outrun a sporty with SE gaskets ; ) YES on the tig weld, your buddy should have the correct filler rod for the pipe. My big secret to exhaust happiness is a snap-on long 1/4 extension with a screwdriver handle. I keep a 1/2" socket on it, and can reach all four exhaust studs without assuming any torturous positions. I also use loctite 222. It's borderline UNDERkill for a 5/16 stud, but it keeps the corrosion out of the threads. Good luck | ||
| Preybird1 |
That looks way to white. i have seen that on spark plugs but not o2 sensors. Looks like it has been running lean for a while. Change it for a new bosch O2 sensor (can't remember the part#). Cheap and piece of mind, someone will chime in the the o2 part# once it is fixed you will need a TPS reset and the afv reset also! Well i would highly recommend you do reset them!!! Also having a new rear head temp sensor would not hurt. I had exhaust issues so i have huge beefy exhaust studs.     | ||
| B1rdman |
Hopefully my ECMspy cable comes in sometime this week.  Wonder why it has been running so lean?? Exhaust leak? Injector or fuel pump/filter issues? | ||
| Kevmean |
I would just repair the exhaust and refit it making sure that there is no strain at all on any of the mountings and then run the bike without it's leaks and then check with ecmspy where you are regarding afv etc after it has been run for a while. | ||
| Kalali |
Bosch O2 sensor Part number 12014. $20 at any auto parts store. | ||
| Preybird1 |
I would use a sponsor here on badweb to get your parts!!! American Sport Bike Here is what you need! http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5931.html Get a list and buy all your stuff at once to cut down on shipping. HD charges $8.50 each for the same gaskets! Oh and FYI guys The factory gaskets work best with the OEM header because they have a taper to the inside of the gasket and the header also has a curved end. The SE gaskets are 100% flat no taper and are like only 1/4"-1/5" thick. They do not play well with the factory header. However they work great with the D&D header because it is flat also and fits perfectly. I have literally blown out 9 SE gaskets on a factory set up. One tiny leak and they go bye bye in 18-30 miles. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Don't forget to do your intake gaskets as was mentioned above, it's good pm to replace them every few years anyway. |
