| Author | Message | ||
     Lynrd |
So, Rhonda, my 1995 S2, was pretty heavily modified in her checkered past. She was drag raced at one time, and I received her lovingly tuned to a very high degree...Thunderstorm heads, Mikuni Carb, Dyna ign, chain drive, aluminum sprocket...and a SuperTrapp muffler on a 2.5" collector exhaust. Right off the truck, she would spin up insanely quick, hit the rev limiter with zero effort, and was an absolute blast o ride anywhere. My riding is much more on the sport-touring side, and we recently did a 1500 mile run to Palm Springs and back. Somewhere on the last few hundred miles of that trip, the Supertrapp came apart- the inlet pipe and baffle has detached from the canister all the way around. With the Supertrapp looking like a very difficult repair, I decided to just fix the problem with money, and found a Buell "Race" muffler on Fleabay. On the plus side, it mounted easily and well, Feels very solid and looks good. WHen I started the bike up, it had a much deeper and throatier sound than before. But when I first took off...where did my bike go?? I have to get the darn thing up to almost 4000 RPM before I come "up on the pipe". Before that, there is a flat spot the size of Utah. The high RPM riding works for road racing, and after I figured out what was going on and realized I needed to ride like a squid, I could actually see where someone might actually like that setup with proper gearing - but it's a real drag for me when riding in town - particularly stoplight to stoplight. I could go through re-jetting, but it feels to me like the exhaust velocity is so low it would be hard to turn this into a street-able setup. Any thoughts? Anyone running a Race Muffler for street use? If so, How did you approach tuning for it? And who is really good at welding up olde Supertrapps? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Jet it properly and you'll love it. I run a race can on both my S1W and my M2(not)L, and used to run one on the S2 until I found a nice, relaxing, stock S2 muffler. All of them performed very well, good smooth torque everywhere and a nice fat powerband. | ||
| Lynrd |
Follow up to this - and Ratbuell is right. I finally got the free time to take Rhonda up to JT+S (A Badweb sponsor) in Sonoma , CA, and Fireman Jim tuned her on the dyno there. According to Jim, he had to come down one jet size all the way around on the Mikuni HSR-42 that she runs. I didn't make it easy - she traveled up there with a dry fuel tank and a battery that I should have replaced 6 months before, but didn't. She's back home now, and did commute duty yesterday. Yes! Yes! Yes! That same nasty, super quick race to rev limiter, wheel standing, effortless power that makes her my favorite is back and working as well as it did with the Trapp - and I will admit, the race muffler sounds just plain MEAN compared to the SuperTrapp. Comes on strong right off the line and pulls across the entire RPM range. According to the Dyno runs, she is at 95 HP and 92 ft lbs of torque. Torque hits that number at about 3000 rpms and stays there all the way to the rev limiter. I'll take it - like I said, she pulls like a damn freight train again. Take this post as a ringing endorsement for JT+S. This was a new experience for me - I have always done my dialing in myself, usually in a very large, empty parking lot. I'd like to think I could eventually get a bike this dialed it, but that "eventually" is a big word....and I don't think I could do a better job. It wasn't cheap but was money well spent. (Message edited by lynrd on October 02, 2013) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Just remember to keep the muffler properly packed. There's a perf tube inside that is held in place with packing between it and the outer canister. Blowing out the packing can shake the tube and the canister rivets apart. I pack mine with stainless steel wool instead of the factory fiberglass and it seems to last a good long time. Glad you got it dialed in. it really is a great system. | ||
| Lynrd |
Does that mean periodically drilling out and replacing the rivets, or is there a trick to repack without taking it apart? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Drill and replace. American Sport Bike has the OEM kit, includes rivets and packing if you go with the fiberglass. | ||
| Steveford |
If that kit is the same as the X1 race muffler, that lasts a lot longer than what came in there or at least it did on my old canister. | ||
| Ratbuell |
A Buell race muffler is a Buell race muffler -the only difference (other than build revisions) in the race exhaust was the header. | ||
| Alfau |
That it will shake off is the problem, not the tuning. I would weld up the one the bike is tuned for and fit the system correctly. You could, on the other hand, tune the bike to the race can and let it shake off if you wanted. |
