| Author | Message | ||
     Jake76 |
Hey guys, I'm new here but have been lurking for awhile. Great forum with tons of useful info! As the title reads, I'm having an electrical issue on my 00 S3T that I'm getting nowhere fast with! When I turn the key on the check engine light does not turn on at all, the fuel pump is not priming, I get no headlight or high beams or even the high beam indicator light, no indicator light for neutral, no click from the starter relay and obviously nothing from the starter. What I do get are turn signals and their indicator lights, taillights and rear brake light, and horn. I've checked the circuit breaker and it is allowing power through it. I've checked the starter relay and it doesn't appear to have any power coming to it. All fuses look good. I've checked the wiring in the starter/kill switch control and I'm not showing and power at any of the wiring there. Right now I'm pretty stumped. Anyone have any suggestions on other parts I can check or have any ideas on what the problem may be. Any help is greatly appreciated! | ||
| 01x1buell |
have you checked the second relay next to it, by switching them | ||
| Two_seasons |
Swap the relays at the fuse box. | ||
| Jake76 |
Yeah I've swapped relays, it did nothing. | ||
| Harleyelf |
How's your kill switch circuit? Any damage to the wires running to it from the steering neck? There's a quick-disconnect in there somewhere that may have self-disconnected. Take the gas tank off and look for loose connectors. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Then I would next suggest your ignition switch may be going out. Power for the starter goes through it. And they do break down over time because of it. | ||
| 01x1buell |
i do not know if this is it but what about the neutral safety switch i know mine went bad and i had nothing when i went to start it. | ||
| 2003xb9r |
I agree with two_seasons. Sounds like the ign sw is faulty. The circuits you still have working are switched in the "accessory" position (I have the exact same model/year bike)& there have been a couple of times I've had to turn my key right off & back on again to get the ignition to liven up. Try hot wiring the pins at the switch connector plug as a test. | ||
| Harleyelf |
Good call, David. If that's the issue, it can be worked around by shorting the two output tabs of the ignition switch to one another. Replacing the switch is best, but to get around while you look for one, you can run all your current through the accessory side of the switch. I'd wrap some heavy solder around the two tabs which are not hot when the switch is off(they are closer to one another than to the hot wire), then plug the connector back together. | ||
| Jake76 |
You guys nailed it. Just checked the switch wires. The wire running to the ignition fuse and subsequently ignition and starter relays, is not showing any voltage when I turn the switch on. Thanks for the help guys, you all rock! Anyone know of any places where I can find a replacement ignition switch? (Message edited by Jake76 on April 06, 2013) | ||
| 2003xb9r |
Glad to hear of your success. 32673-97Y ign sw & lock set with keys (forks, ign & seat) $192 list 32674-97Y same but with lock set for saddlebags, $248. Maybe not avail anymore. Surdyke HD best disc but v expensive part! I'd go for good quality aftermarket e.g Pollak or Cole-Hersee range of switches made in USA from an automotive electrical supplier & keep the other locks standard. Means 1 key for ign, one for everything else though. (Message edited by 2003xb9r on April 06, 2013) | ||
| Two_seasons |
I'd buy an HD direct replacement. They are more expensive but, you can then use a single key (new ignition switch is keyed to your existing key). Then just one key instead of two! Some on Badweb think Drag Specialties makes a good switch. And they may. However, the key is sloppy (no hole in key) and you'll have to splice it in to the harness, not a connector like the HD replacement will be. And if your ignition switch is dash mounted, you'll have to grind the dash down so the Drag S. switch will protrude through the dash enough to get a good bite with the mounting nut included with the switch. If you don't grind/sand the dash, then the Drag S. switch will spin when you rotate the cheap key in the switch to turn on/off the ignition. It just plain out stinks! HD one will cost you 4x or about $100. I've bought the Drag S. switch for my 2000 X1 and it is not up to the quality I expect on my bikes. I'll never buy another one. | ||
| Thejosh |
American Sportbike has them for a good price, you can still use the new key for the gas cap, I put my stock key on my other keychain. Only use it to lock the forks. | ||
| Harleyelf |
BadWeb sponsor American Sport Bike has one that will fit your dash, but you have to splice the wires into your connector or harness. Mine's been fine for three years now (I soldered the wires with good heavy shrink wrap over the splices); the key will be different from your fork lock but does not fall out or spin freely. | ||
| Jake76 |
Thanks for the info guys! I think I'm going to give the American Sportbike switch a try. It's easy enough to replace and if it doesn't workout I'm only out $25. As for the extra I'm not too concerned. Maybe I won't misplace two keys as often as I have been one key.  Thanks again for all your help guys. You've all really made this problem a lot easier for me! | ||
| Harleyelf |
It increases your security to have the steering lock key on a different keyring from the ignition key, too. |
