| Author | Message | ||
     Newbuellertoo |
Did a dumb thing. Last winter when I installed my new billet air filter, I pulled off the intake manifold to check the seals. As they looked okay, I re installed everything, (with much aggravation and swearing). Bottom line, I suffered with a 3,000 rpm stumble all summer. Gear selection, temperature, nothing seemed to affect it either way. So now that I have new seals to install, can someone please teach me the 'right' way to pull the manifold and install new seals? Is there a trick to making sure the seals are seated properly before tightening everything down? Access is such a B**ch, I only want to have to do it once. I know some of you guys can do this with your eyes closed, but this was honestly the most aggravating thing that I have done yet. Thanks guys! | ||
| Nitrous_jim |
the trick is to put assembly lube on the seals and manifold when you install them so they slip into place properly. | ||
| Hootowl |
If you pull the manifold, you should install new gaskets. | ||
| Nitrous_jim |
you should always use new orings. and replace the two bolts on the left side of the manifold with hex head bolts (Message edited by nitrous_jim on February 19, 2013) | ||
| Buell_bert |
Lube em with Silglyde. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
What Buell_bert said.... | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
Thanks for the help guys. Would oil work too, or does it need to be a silicone based product? Nitrous Jim, is it just the left side fasteners that should be swapped? Why not do all of them. Access in that area even after moving harnesses aside is really brutal. Thanks again all! | ||
| Jayvee |
Probably petroleum jelly would work, maybe even grape jelly. I just went and bought the Silglyde, its expensive, but doesn't take much, its pretty slippery, and it also works on brakes though I didn't try it there yet. I tried replacing all four allen bolts with hex heads. The manifold inside curve is too tight for the hex tips to clear. They couldn't turn or be tightened. If one could find some small-headed hex screws, or machine down the hex to a smaller wrench size, that should work. I was doing to try to grind/file them down, but the odds of me getting all six flats correct are infinitesimal. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The Silglyde makes them last about twice a long. They don't seem to dry out and get hard as fast. | ||
| Coxster |
When I re-installed my manifold last summer I cut down an allen wrench ( the short side ) from " L " to " l " so that it was easier to put in and take out while turning over and over and over. Electronic white grease makes a cheap anti-sieze too | ||
| Coxster |
When I re-installed my manifold last summer I cut down an allen wrench ( the short side ) from " L " to " l " so that it was easier to put in and take out while turning over and over and over. Electronic white grease makes a cheap anti-sieze too | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
Thanks for all of the good advice guys. Still not looking forward to it, but hopefully I can at least manage to get it done leak free this time. btw, any tricks for hooking the cables back up? I ended up bending the bracket a little to gain some slack for hook up, then bent it back. Thanks again. | ||
| Jayvee |
I did replace the allen bolt that holds the cable bracket to the carb body with a hex-head bolt, that was when I took the carb top off. I don't remember having to disconnect throttle cables for the intake seals, seems like I let the carb hang by those cables while I did the head seals. | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
My bike is F.I. If that makes a difference. I didn't know there was any way to replace the seals without removing the whole manifold from the bike. In hindsight, would it have been possible to just slide the seals in from the left side? Anyone out there have a seal replacement 101 course they could give me. I have the Buell manual, but there are usually easier ways to do things than stated in the book. Thanks for all of the help so far guys. | ||
| Kalali |
I would also love to know if its possible to replace the intake seals without removing the intake assemble off the bike.y | ||
| Ratbuell |
You shouldn't have to bend any cable brackets. Use your cable adjustments to put as much slack in the cables as possible. Remove, replace, and set your cable slack per the FSM. | ||
| Newbuellertoo |
Warmed up enough on the weekend to go for a short ride and heat up the bike for an oil change. Still have the 3,000 rpm stumble. Haven't changed anything yet and tried the propane test around the intake and the idle stayed the same. Guess I need to keep looking and save my seals for when I really need them. |
