| Author | Message | ||
     Pikeben08 |
Two part question: 1. The FSM says to lock the transmission in gear to remove the countershaft Torx screw. But it already had you remove the primary sprockets and belt drive pulley. So if you put the transmission in gear everything just spins. Am I missing something? Or should I just put the drive pulley back on and block the rear wheel to keep it from moving? 2. Why does this screw need to be removed? Doesn't the countershaft come out with the transmission anyway? | ||
| Gmaan03 |
Should come right out the.main drive shaft will stay in. I just did a tranny swap and learned this lesson..... | ||
| Pikeben08 |
So I can leave the Torx in right? Doesn't it only need to be removed if I am completely disassembling the countershaft? I only plan on replacing gears with worn dogs (for second gear, maybe third too) so I don't think that I need to remove the countershaft for that right? | ||
| Gmaan03 |
Sorry I am not sure about that. I picked up a ebay transmission and replaced it. My second gear was out too. I am going to rebuild it a little at a time as money permits. I need new shifting forks and second gear work. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Been a long time since I did it, and while I was braced for a nightmare, I started at about 4pm and it was done (new second gear pair) and ready to go in by 2am. So it was all a blur because it went so well, the jobs where everything went wrong are the ones you remember.  I think I remember reading that, and noting the same thing you did, shrugging, and moving on. I also don't remember what all I took apart, just that it was obvious enough when I got into it. I was very careful to keep things in order as they came out and they went back in fine. I think I needed a monstor snap ring pliar, but other than that, could do it with tools in hand. If there were torx bolts in there, I got them out fine without putting the primary assembly back on, that's for sure. Sorry my memory is fuzzy, this was a LONG time ago. | ||
| Pikeben08 |
Ok, I was just checking that the transmission could be removed without removing the torx screw. I have a feeling the manual tells you to remove the torx while the trans is still in the bike because it is easier to do there than on the bench. Did you happen to notice wear from the primary drive on your shifter assembly? I've read that it could be a sign of a bad bearing, I've also read that it could be normal. Just wondering what I should expect to be seeing, since I have wear and I may even have some on the detent plate as well. I'll check the shafts to see if there is any play and get some pics tonight. Thanks for the help guys. Ben | ||
| Buellistic |
All the "INFO" you need is in the FSM ... Do you have one yet ??? | ||
| Pikeben08 |
Yes I do and it was the basis of my original question. | ||
| Buellistic |
That "TORX SCREW" is not removed if you just want to pull transmission ... It is only removed if you want to remove the COUNTER SHAFT once you get the complete transmission out ... You have to remember that TECHNICAL WRITERS are not MECHANICS, let alone technicians !!! That is why TECHNICAL PUBLICATIONS(FSM) sometimes have a lot of blatant "ERRORS" OR "MISSLEADING STATEMENTS" in them which the "ENGINEERS" get blamed for !!! (Message edited by buellistic on February 18, 2013) | ||
| Reepicheep |
While you have it out, also look closely at the needle bearings internal to the 5th gear drive assembly. They don't get good lubrication and rust, and if you follow the FSM for belt tension you crush them. It will remain in the case when the transmission comes out, but without the output shaft through it you will be able to inspect. If you have to replace those bearings, in theory you have to press out the 5th gear drive assembly. That is probably the easiest at the end of the day, and is what I did, but thinking back I might be able to cobble something together to do it in situ in a pinch. Or it might be wasted time... My shifter was fine. I did polish my shift drum and it's shifter drums, and debur the shifter forks, since I was in there anyway. | ||
| Buellistic |
The FSM is wrong on the PRI. Chain and Drive Belt Adjustment ... If either are too tight it makes for a poor shifting transmission ... A mall adjusted Clutch does not help either ... | ||
| Pikeben08 |
Upon second inspection the "wear" on the shifter assembly looks more like it was ground down to fit, the wear marks don't match the direction of the drive sprockets. I think I may have seen a post somewhere that it can come from the factory like that, in which case I guess I'm good from that standpoint. Bearings inside of 5th gear look good I think. No rust when I shine a light in there, just a little bit of staining on the shaft that they ride on but it wipes off with your finger. I'll make sure to lube them up as best I can before I reassemble. | ||
| Pikeben08 |
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