| Author | Message | ||
     Dom |
took some pics yesterday of the process I went through to update my 99 rotor to a 00+ rotor without the shakes. got it up on stands first  next was to remove the pads and then the caliper    then you just pull the pads out the side and next is the 2 caliper mounting allen head bolts  I didn't disconnect my brake hose, instead I just sat my caliper up on the exhaust, worked out just fine for me.  I set my front wheel back on the ground for the actual axle bolt loosening since I didn't have a breaker bar. I believe the axle nut was a 15/16th or that's at least what worked for me  Then the last bolts are the 4 pinch bolts on the forks that you loosen up.  After that you basically just have to slide the axle out from the forks on the rotor side. Then the wheel should pull out and you are done removing the wheel. Basically you just have to undo the 5 bolts to remove the rotor from the wheel  Heres a comparison of old vs new rotor style  Then attach the new rotor using new bolts along with loctite BLUE on the threads. Wheel back in to forks with anti-sieze or grease on the axle Locktite blue on axle nut Reattach caliper to forks using loctite RED on caliper mounting bolts. And finally install brake pads, I used new pads so I had to bleed the brakes in order for the pistons to go back in but other then that pretty easy job. (Message edited by dom. on February 12, 2013) | ||
| Dom |
I actually have before and after videos of the rotor shaking vs not shaking I will upload once I splice them together. No more having to hold the brake at idle  | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Ah that new rotor sure is pretty! Nice pics. Do you have to find the "sweet spot" to get the caliper off with the PM wheels? Stock wheels require wiggle testing until you get to the right spot to get the caliper off. | ||
| Dom |
once the pads were out the caliper came out pretty easily. jut had to tilt it slightly to pull it out and here is the before and after video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSrJzyGiw9w | ||
| Jayvee |
I just went through these steps for a different reason last month. I had a lingering doubt. I had to take a guess on installing the front axle, how to align the wheel correctly. I aligned the rotor in the center of the caliper, and tightened the rotor-side axle pinch bolts. Then torqued the axle nut to spec, then double check the rotor in the center of the caliper, then tighten the nut-side axle pinch bolts. Did you have a better/different way? It isn't specified in the Service Manual, that I could find. Also, Nice Bike! (Message edited by jayvee on February 15, 2013) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The trick is to push the caliper pistons all the way back into their bores. I pull the pads, spray the pistons with brake cleaner to get all the pad/road crud off the pistons. I use a small bristle (not wire) brush. Then put the pads back in and use them to push the pistons into the calipers. Then pull the pads, pull the caliper bolts and do the rest. You want to clean the pistons so you don't bugger the seals when you push them back in. | ||
| Dom |
As far as reinstalling the axle I set the wheel into the forks, pushed the axle through and torqued it down. Then torqued down the pinch bolts afterwards. When I was tightening the caliper mounting bolts it seemed as though it was pulling them into the right position, I haven't had any issues since doing this. | ||
| 46champ |
Dom how many miles does your bike have on when you decided you had enough of listening to the rattling mess. Mine had about 35,000 I am just curious if that is about the norm. | ||
| Dom |
has right around 17k on it. I've only had it since about 12k tho but that was enough for me haha |
