| Author | Message | ||
     Henshao |
They had an item on the '98 bikes that could solve your problem. Back in those days they called it a carburetor or something. Did you check your kickstand switch? | ||
| Two_seasons |
>"All my problems occur when the bike is under any sort of load." You need to replace your ETS! | ||
| Alfau |
Remove the headers and repair or replace them(the crack),also replace the header gaskets. When there is an air leak you'll chase your tail trying to get it to run sweet until you fix it. ETS has been updated so it won't hurt to buy the improved one.Buy the installation spanner with it. Also,In ecm spy,choose fetch EEPROM,wait for it to load,next choose ECM config,then make sure open loop learn is enabled with a tick in the box. Remove tick in Table value locking.(someone else might like to clarify this choice) Reset AFV to 100%. If you have to change these settings you will need to ride the bike in open loop learn rpm range. (Gentle riding,nothing )over 3000 rpm for half an hour. It was nearly two years after I paid for experts to rebuild my motor that I finally ,in desperation, removed the headers and discovered an air leak at the flange. Even then it wasn't over. I installed and reinstalled headers about four times until finally I used the original exhaust flange gasket, not the updated ones. I found the newer flat type flange easier to put in but simply didn't/couldn't seal. | ||
| Mrsandman |
So I had the headers installed with new seals when the bike was put together. I actually checked with a bic lighter to see if an leaking would make the flame jump or blow out. Nothing! everything is sealed. As far as the crack goes, I welded it back up and there is no more leaking out the side, so no issues there. I double checked the whole header about 10 times to see if there where any cracks or leaks...Nothing!. I did order this sensor today http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17035.html So hopefully this will work fine and take care of the problem. I will look into the ECM settings you described but I have to wait a few days until the sensor comes in the mail, because currently i have the tank off. I'll probably wait until I install and test ride with the new ETS on, then consider option B. Thanks | ||
| Alfau |
Not sure there is a way to detect a small leak in headers apart from backfiring and poor/unstable running. I checked and rechecked for leaks with no sign of a leak but when I removed them,there it was. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Once you get your new ETS installed, do a TPS reset (make sure your idle screw is all the way down so the slide is bottomed out, THEN DO THE RESET, then set for 5.6 degrees using ECMspy) and let it idle for 10 minutes, then take it out for a ride and report back please. As I'm sure you are aware of by now, this thread will be archived and then, help the next rider with their problem(s). Steve | ||
| Mrsandman |
If my TPS is already set at 5.6 degrees, would it be beneficial to reset it after I replace the ETS? I haven't replaced the ETS yet, though I do have it. I will probably do it this weekend. Thanks. | ||
| Mrsandman |
OK Just replaced the ETS, and it's still wanting to die under load as usual. 2nd gear 20 mph-ish. I warmed up the engine to 120 Degrees Cel. -No error codes -new 02 censor -New air intake sensor -Fuel pressure at 50-52 PSI -Idle is excellent between 950-1000 rpm -AFV 100% -TPS 5.6 degrees -NO CEL light on Any thoughts from here guys. Anybody live near prescott AZ who would like to take a look. LOL. | ||
| Alfau |
Did you run the diagnostic tests or simply look for error codes ? The tps reset needs to be done when the motor has fully warmed up. Correct Spark plugs and correct gap ? plug wires.(look for rusted terminals) new fuel filter. fuel cap vent. blow through the overflow hose. ignition timing. wiring harness connections ,all earths cleaned and refixed. Ecm could be faulty. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Initially, you were getting too much fuel, hence the poor throttle between gears and when rolling on the throttle on the highway. My symptoms mimicked yours on my 2000 X1, that is why I said to replace the ETS and the O2 sensor. Do you have a manual? You need to check all grounds.You need to do a TPS reset, but only after several minutes of idling. The bike MUST be warm. And please, when you do it, make sure the throttle body slide is ALL THE WAY DOWN (idle screw). Bottom it out until you're about to lose the screw and spring. You do know that with electronics, just because it's new doesn't mean it's working properly! Are you sure your O2 sensor wiring is ok? You may want to disconnect/reconnect your ECM connections several times. This will clean the contacts. All things that are on wheels, over time, develop connector/corrosion issues. | ||
| Mrsandman |
So I reset the TPS as per the manuel and took her out for a test ride and it seemed to ride great with no surging and dying like im used to, so that was an improvement. With that being said, I did get the occasional hick up and burp thing during cruise. I did ride gentle (below 3000 rpm) so not sure what is with the burping. After a few mins of riding, I noticed my idle was lower than from when I started, it was registering between 600-700 rpm (low). That and my acceleration seemed labored and an overall power decrease. So i got her back home and immedialty plugged her in to the ECMSPY and noticed my AFV had dropped from 100 to 80%...? ECMSPY does provide some literature as to why the drop occures but they related it to dyno testing? HD never had the bike on a dyno though, so now I have to figure that out. I reset the AFV and took it out again and I did notice during my riding, that my power and idle went down. Again I took her home and plugged her in and discovered my AFV went down to 80% Literally when the AFV is at 100, it runs like new with gobs of power. So the o2 sensor wiring is great and new. I did run the diagnostics test and no codes had popped up. Overflow hose is clean and im able to pass air through the hose. Timing seems great as far as I can tell. Plugs are new and i'll double check the gap. So my concern is now, how do I stop the AFV from dropping down to 80%.... Any feed back is welcome. Thanks again. | ||
| Akbuell |
Had a similar situation re the AFV going to 80% on my '01 X-1. In the service manual (Sec 4-41 in my '01 service manual) is a test procedure for the injectors. When I did mine, I discovered the rear injector was 'drooling'. I guessed that that was causing the rear cyl to be on the rich side, the 02 sensor was seeing that, and was skewing the AFV down to 80%. I swapped the injectors front for rear while I waited on new injectors. All was well, the bike was happy again. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Essmjay |
I am not surprised it is burping if you are riding around under 3 grand. Try riding around at 3500 for a while. | ||
| Mrsandman |
AKBUELL. I may have to check that out but in the meantime Im going to do a few other tests. ESSMJAY: Above 3k RPM isn't particularly a good idea since the motor is still being broke in and when the ECM is learning the bike it is necessary to stay below 3k. but i know what you mean. -So I took it out again this morning and the AFV did reset, this time to 77 not 80??? So when I got home I immediately plugged checked the plugs and discovered that my rear cylinder plug, I was able to unscrew with my fingers....NOT GOOD and wasn't properly gapped. Manuel says to gap it at between .038 to .043, so I did .040 on both. the other front cylinder plug was not as loose but pretty dang loose. I also took off the main grounding strap and im currently soaking it into a solution to get rid of the gunk. I'll post back the results later today. Thanks. or tomorrow | ||
| Kilroy |
I think the restrictive recommendations on engine break-in were modified some time ago | ||
| Alfau |
The engine flywheels work like a gyroscope in that the higher the rpm the more stable the bike is to ride. Generally 3400 rpm in all gears is considered the optimum target rpm to get the best out of the bike. Also 1000 rpm or slightly lower for idle. I generally do not ride my bike under 3000 rmp. The rear cylinder is monitored with the oxygen sensor and a loose spark plug or loose exhaust header will throw out the reading and more or less fuel will be added automatically to compensate. Try running some fuel injector cleaner in your fuel to help prevent leaking/drooling injectors. If you have one leaking,move it to the front cylinder to avoid it throwing out the ecm. Injector cleaner will enrichen the fuel and make the motor run slightly hotter affecting idle. Also be consistent with fuel type and (never use ethanol mixes), some fuels cause trouble. When the ECM moves into open loop learn the motor sometimes farts a bit, same with closed loop learn. | ||
| Henshao |
Where did 3400rpms come from? | ||
| Jramsey |
Above 3k RPM isn't particularly a good idea since the motor is still being broke in. Don't know who told you that but they're FOS,that's about 60mph in top gear which is lugging it.} | ||
| Henshao |
Can you define 'lugging' the engine? | ||
| Jramsey |
Can you define 'lugging' the engine? Is that a for real question?} If so shift from 1st to 3rd gear at 20 mph and whack the throttle and listen to the motor........you'll figure it out. (Message edited by Jramsey on February 01, 2013) | ||
| Henshao |
I disagree vehemently and wholeheartedly that 3k rpms is lugging it, but maybe you have a different definition or a different motor than me. | ||
| Jramsey |
I disagree vehemently and wholeheartedly that 3k rpms is lugging it, but maybe you have a different definition or a different motor than me. I give up, I can lug my Dodge/Turbo Cummins by short shifting but I try not to. BTW this thread is about X1 with fuel injection not a carb'd M2.} | ||
| Henshao |
A Buell is broken if it can't run 60mph in top gear on flat ground. Even the Blast. If a Buell is broken, the owner should be aware; I ain't trying to cause no trouble. But if anything, shouldn't the injected bike have even more power than the carb'd one? I know you like to rev your bike out and enjoy the power and all. It's fun to rev but we don't NEED to rev. we all have like 70ft-lbs of torque on a 450lb bike. I'm not trying to sidetrack the thread but again, if your bike can't pull 60mph in top gear, it's broke. | ||
| Mrsandman |
Maybe I can clear up a few things Gents. When I got the bike back from HD, they explained to me that the bike shouldn't be ran over 3k rpm, They didn't specify if I can take it on the HWY or not! I can do conservatively about 63-65 in 5th gear at around 3k. I did take her on the freeway a few times though. But I do prefer to stay at around 50-55 in 5th gear. HD said to keep it below 3k for the first 500 miles and no hard riding. After which to get the oil changed. So that is where im coming from. Anywho a quick update after the plugs where gapped and not un threading themselves. I did take her out again and didn't notice any changes. AFV dropped to 77 again (twice actually) and I can feel it drop during the ride. Its a sudden loss in power with a more labored acceleration. And when i do get it to speed it hickups and coughs every 15 to 30 seconds. But for the first 3 mins of riding when the AFV is 100, its a rocket with a clean acceleration and smooth idle. So im probably going to try swapping the injectors and see where that takes me. Wish me luck. Thanks. | ||
| Orngm2 |
Just a few questions... are you running any kind of air filter mod? where is you air intake (AIT) sensor mounted? what ECM do you have? are you running a map that was played with at some time? The problem could actually be that the previous owner played with the map to compensate for an air leak or something else that could cause a lean condition. now that you have no leaks, the bike IS running rich and the ECM is trying to lean it out to an appropriate level. My advice is to first see what kind of ECM you have, make sure you have an appropiate map or is it stock? if the injectors are drooling they can be cleaned and checked on a bench alot cheaper than buying new ones. alot of peple here have maps that can get you in the ballpark if you are running an unknown map. Tell us what you got... I had the same problem after i rebuilt my engine, the bike would not run if the AFV was at least 130, fuel injectors got clogged up with rubber bits from a bad fuel line. I got them cleaned and bench chcks and now the bike runs FANTASTIC. And i only have about 300 miles on the rebuild. | ||
| Essmjay |
That is the deal, it was the guys at HD that told you that, not the guys at Buell. They would be more correct if you had a Sportster, but you don't. Riding at the correct rpm/gear range for your engine is not riding it hard. If you were hitting the rev limiter with every shift, that would be riding it hard. My experience with the early fuel injection system was that riding in too low of an rpm would cause rough running issues. | ||
| Jramsey |
My experience with the early fuel injection system was that riding in too low of an rpm would cause rough running issues. Shane,that was the point I was trying to get across.The tuber DDFI closed loop is about 2-4,000 rpm,10 miles with the ecm in learn mode at a steady 3,500 rpm makes for a smoother running engine than running at 2,200.}} | ||
| Two_seasons |
Don't run it below 3K IN ANY GEAR. You WILL do more harm to that new engine if you are lugging it. 3-4K won't hurt that new engine! Unless you own an early DDFI Buell bike you won't understand what we are saying here. | ||
| Two_seasons |
Frankly, as an owner of a Buell, you are peeing into the wind without a service manual! I won't ask again. | ||
| Alfau |
Where is Buellistic when you need him? re:- Rpm for new rebuild motor. (Message edited by alfau on February 02, 2013) |
