| Author | Message | ||
     Lakes |
Hi well as i've said before i have a M2 buell 00, have just serviced heads , new rings & machined barrels to get the swish band to 40 thou . have carbon race air kit CV44 carb. but stock cams, everything else stock. stock Australian delivery 2" collector pipe, with a aftermarket 2" stainless muffler ( quite ) i was thinking of upgrading to 2 1/2" collector head pipe & getting a muffler that fits the same. But last night i was at the local drag strip doing testing with a younger friend that has a S3 00 but has stock fairing removed just has flyscreen like my bike. he has the Buell factory race headers 2 1/2" & white brothers E pipe & stock EFI we had about five pass's my best trap speed was 2 mph faster than his. the trap speed tell's you how much HP. we have never had them on a dyno but the black top dyno more accurate. is there really that much difference in torque & HP, changing to the 2 1/2" pipe? | ||
| Buellistic |
If you want to PUMP MORE AIR in the HIGHER RPM RANGE, a LARGER ID HEADER will make it possible !!! | ||
| Lakes |
Thanks Buellistic, i'm not really into drag racing & try to shift below 6,000. my gave me 2 1/2" stock head pipe he had they look like new almost. what is the gain over the stock 2 1/2" the factory race 2 1/2" has? to me it looks to have longer runners before the collector & collector facing rear of bike. i will also put a set of Bolt in SE cams i have to drop cranking pressure & i have 1.72 SE rockers. would you think the 2" collector would have more mid range Torque? as thats what i really want good Torque, i ride at from 3,000 to 4,500 mostly with a few bursts to 5,500 but the 3,000 to 4,500 would be the rev range i'm mostly at on the road. | ||
| Buellistic |
Get a SHIFT LITE and set it to come on at 6800 RPM where you shift ... If you DYNO you engine to where the engine quits making HP is the RPM where you shift at ... The RACING HEADER is the better header because it will flow better !!! "NOW" for the MAX. TORQUE where you ride, will just sent you what "i" did tuning my 1997 S3T ... | ||
| Jayvee |
Hey, that's my customary rev-range too, can we just post the good way to tune for torque? Or Buellistic, send me a copy as well? I only hit the rev-limiter twice in 7 years. I like the torque of the M2. I don't plan on changing cams, even if I get the big-bore cylinders... | ||
| Firemanjim |
Lakes, biggest difference between your bikes would have been the cams, yours were tailored to better low end torque, the Thunderstorm motors had hotter cams----probably like the SE ones you are looking at. And if I remember correctly longer primaries were better suited to torque---the race header. If you want better times at drags, get a good shift light and an airshifter, a nice Shinko Hookup tire, and if you are really serious extend the swingarm(or wheelie bar). The first two will allow you to be way more consistent----light comes on,press button--repeat. The tire will allow better launches but on short wheelbase bike that can be tough. Extended arm takes care of that. | ||
| Coxster |
I cannot speak for drag racing a Buell, but when I changed the 4 into 1 on my KZ1000 many years ago from 1.125 primaries to 1" primaries, my arms felt the difference at every stop light. The old girl would go 11.89 sec @ 109 mph on a really good day. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
I drag my 99 s3, changed the pipe out, unfortunately the motor gave way the first race after swapping pipe (NOT RELATED!!!!!)and I did more work to it, so I cant comment how much exactly it'd improve but like Buellistic said, enlarge the pipe so you can move the air quicker, equaling more power | ||
| Lakes |
Buellistic could you resent that info as i just added my new e mail as server i used sold ou closed. so have new e thanks Lakes i have a friend with a DJ 250i & he has been tuning some EFI HD's so he said when he finishs making a map for the last one tomorrow if he has time he will give my bike a few runs check AFR & HP & TQ to get a reading then will put the bolt in SE cams & use the SE 1.72 ratio rockers. i have a set of 2 1/2" stock headpipes just have to get a muffler to suit or might make one up thanks for any info as i love this bike. ride it every chance i get been riding the last two days as well as riding too & from track. | ||
| Trojan |
but like Buellistic said, enlarge the pipe so you can move the air quicker, equaling more power Not necessarily. Sometimes a larger diameter pipe equals slower gas flow and less power  We tried some BIG bore headers on our race bike a few years ago and they made less power than the 2" headers we used previously. Unless you have significantly tuned your bike from stock then enlarging just the collector pipe won't make a huge difference. A decent free flowing muffler, dyno tune and a little weight loss will get more results with less cost  If your bike is an Australian spec bike it will have Thunderstorm cams and heads as standard, so you won't gain by changing to SE items either. | ||
| Rick_a |
If it's an SE cammed bike it's worth it to use a race header. The primary pipe length, diameter, collector shape, and outlet diameter all have to work together to maximize HP/TQ over as wide a range as possible. As mentioned, the Buell race pipes were some of the best. The "White Lightning" pipes were also better than stock. How do you like the 44CV? I was thinking of going that route to work better with my quick shifter. | ||
| Lakes |
Rick_a thanks for the info. I love the CV44 I love CV carb design. the one i have uses a stepped needle not the normal tapered needle. reason i like this style needle is it gets 70MPG ( imperial not US ) works great as under load you can just open the throtle & front wheel goes up in excelleration. |
