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Jayvee
Posted on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 - 04:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Replaced front brake pads with Lyndall Gold.
Did 10 stops from 20, and 10 stops from 40.
On the last one or maybe two, a bunch of smoke billowed off the calipers.
I have a BrakeTech billet ductile iron rotor.
Is the smoke part acceptable or even normal for "break-in" ?
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Buellistic
Posted on Tuesday, January 22, 2013 - 04:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"NO" !!!
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Goody
Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 09:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No, I put a new rotor and pads on mine, never had any smoke. Is rotor turning blue? If so you have a stuck piston or a blown seal or both.
If it isn't blue, did you leak any brake fluid on the caliper or rotor? Its hard to say without actually seeing the problem.
Anytime you let the "smoke" out of anything it isn't good.
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you do not change the BRAKE FLUID and wipe out the MASTER CYLINDERS with a piece CLEAN old T-Shirt ONCE A YEAR you will eventually have CALIPER PROBLEMS ...

Have always done this on my 1997 S3T and have 111,811.6 miles on it as of the last ride and NO CALIPER PROBLEMS ...

Brake pads have to be broke in !!!

(Message edited by buellistic on January 23, 2013)
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Jayvee
Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 05:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm pretty sure I spilled brake fluid all over the place. I used brake cleaner on the rotor, this was before I replaced the pads. I think it also got on the header pipe, or maybe WD-40, but something cooked off of the outside of that for a few minutes, smoked a little bit.
It has a new front tire too. I very nearly had an embarrassment about the second time I tried to stop hard from 20 mph. I'd just put on some plastic rear sliders, and I didn't want to scuff them up already, I was a lot more focused after that.

Started out with a slightly leaking fork seal, then front tire went bald before I got around to fixing it. So, new seals (oil, dust and O), HyperPro progressive fork springs, HyperPro 10 weight fork oil, Race Tech Gold Vales put in (C-32), new tire, wheel, black alloy valve stem caps, new Gold brake pads, new DOT4. New Ti axle and nut, axle pinch bolts, caliper mounting bolts, rotor mounting bolts, fork brace bolts. Changed the headlight mount ears to the later cut-out style. Replaced the brake line clamp on the bottom triple with a bigger diameter one letting the stainless line move a bit ("self-adjusting.") And Fork bellows boots off a Nightster to cover the fork tubes.
The brake cleaner took some of the paint off the fork slider, so might be painting those with either silver or black engine paint soon. Hope to ride it to work tomorrow.
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Jayvee
Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 12:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK, rode to work today, front brake is two-finger. No complaints there. Very nice.
Even though the preload, and rebound dampers, are set at factory "neutral" (no preload, no damping) (yeah, I know it's
'wrong' per the Owners Manual) the feel of the front fork is very noticeably improved. Commute is all highway, but I'm familiar with all the bumps, and the fork action is very much improved. Naturally I'll continue to mess around with it, a bit. Sag, and all that.
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