| Author | Message | ||
     Rsm688 |
Well I'm pullin my heads off for some fresh powdercoat and doing the xb rocker conversion as well. My question is what all parts do I need to replace when I reinstall them and what all should I check/inspect/do while I've got the heads off? I know I'm gonna need new head gasket and rocker gaskets and head bolts, should I pull the pushrods tubes and replace the gaskets as well while I've got the motor out of the bike? Does anyone happen to know the part numbers for the gaskets and bolts? Also, I'm gonna have my primary and cam cover off as well for powder costing. Is there anything I should replace while I'm in there? I was thinking maybe the primary chain adjuster and oil pump gear? Is there anything else I should inspect and or adjust/replace while I have the motor and primary out of the bike? I'm new to v-twins so haven't learned all the little tips and things that commonly fail yet. Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Harleyelf |
Yes on the primary adjuster and oil pump gear. Pushrod tubes will be off, so they will go back on with new gaskets. | ||
| Kilroy |
Base gaskets also once you de-tension the head bolts. Replace the front motor mount bolts on the front head if you take those off as well. | ||
| Rsm688 |
On the oil pump is all that needs to be replaced is the pump gear? Yes I plan on replacing all the motor mount bolts, gonna be using a billet motor mount as well. Kilroy, by base gaskets do you mean for the cylinders? Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Buellistic |
The "FIRST" and BEST advise that "i" can give you is get the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for you YEAR/MODEL BUELL !!! The FSM will tell you the TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS, "BUT" will not tell you how to IMPROVISE "SPECIAL TOOLS" to do the TORQUE'ing ... "BUT" the FSM will not tell you the proper torque sequence to torque multiple fasteners ... | ||
| Harleyelf |
Yes, base gaskets are at the base of the cylinders. They are famed for leaking even when not tempted by d-torquing. I'd check the oil hoses, too. They are a dozen years old and between the frame and shock; not hard to replace while you have the muffler off and the motor loose on its rear mounts. +1 on the FSM. | ||
| Rsm688 |
Thanks harleyelf and Lafayette (and thanks again for all the good buell 101 emails). I've got a 99 model so I have the updated oil pump (not the best xb one), I plan on swapping on the high performance oil pump gear for it though. And yes I will be replacing all of my oil lines. I actually had a leak develop at the compression outing right above the shock reservoir. I'm probably gonna use braided stainless lines to replace them all with Since I'm gonna be pulling the cam cover, can the oil pump gear be replaced without removing the oil pump or do I need to just remove it as well? Anything else yall can think of that I should do while I have the cylinders and covers off? I know I'm replacing the head bolts and gonna replace the base gaskets as well now, do the studs for the cylinders need to be rePlaced or can they be reused? And is there a top end gasket kit that I can buy that will have the correct rocker box gaskets since I'm swapping the xb covers on? Or are the gaskets the same for the older rocker covers and the xb covers? And what's the best way to keep everything covered while it's apart and being powdercoated? Should I use plastic and tape it up good or what? Thanks again for all the help and teaching me how to d everything right on my buell guys. Spencer | ||
| Rsm688 |
I've got the FSM but I think I'm gonna go ahead and order the parts manual as well, I can see how it can make life alot easier with diagrams of all the parts since the fsm doesn't have them | ||
| Fast1075 |
Run a leakdown before tearing the motor down to check cylinder and valve sealing. If it was mine, I would replace the stock valves with some good aftermarket ones. Sucks to have a spin-welded valve stem pull apart. | ||
| Stev0 |
Hi Spencer You need to remove the oil pump to change the drive gear.. although it can be changed with the heads on if you know what you're doing but I wouldn't recommend it, it's a pain in the neck but doable safely. Studs are normally fine for a few freshen ups on a normal motor. XB and tuber gaskets are different, you need XB rocker gaskets but the valve seals are different, so you're going to have to buy individual parts for some. I like the James Viton valve seals. With the base gaskets I smear loctitte 515 or 518 on the gaskets and run them between my finger and thumb to get a good thin coating. This helps to fill any irregularities and also makes it easier to pull apart later, I also do this to the gasket under the rocker boxes. Powdercoating flashes alarm bells for me.. as they usually blast beforehand and you don't want that anywhere near anything. I only powdercoat bare parts, nothing that is in an assembly. Blast tape or gaffa tape over most surfaces is usually enough to protect them. Here's a pro tip, use ATF on the ring pack when you reassemble, I also use it to do the final clean on the bores. I use Cassite Motor Honey on the valve tips, pushrod ends and cams/followers/gears it's a thick sticky oil like honey that stays where you put it stevo | ||
| Stev0 |
Just thinking, pretty sure you can get away with a '99 top end gasket set and just buy the XB PCV breathers and rubber seals. I have a heap of gaskets and just grab what I need for this sort of job. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If it were me and it was a tuber, I would probably do the cylinder base gaskets as well. You are almost there already, and even unmolested a lot of tuber motors have annoying (but not serious) base gasket leaks. That will also let you get a good look at your pistons and check for cracks and scuffing (I did it on a 2 stroke KDX I bought and found a crack in the piston skirt... which surely saved me from a catastrophic motor failure). |
