Author |
Message |
Zedhead47
| Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 07:52 pm: |
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Hey Guys, I'm a new member here but I've been riding my 97 M2 for about 5 years now. It has most of the modifications available for it but now I'm on to my 3rd header and I'm just curious what some of you guys think. I recently bought a stainless header from Al at American Sport Bike and I had to modify the link pipe to go from the 2.5" collector to the 2" inlet on the V&H. I haven't been able to ride yet and I'm curious what you guys think, will that be a problem with reducing the flow? |
Dutch_x1
| Posted on Thursday, December 13, 2012 - 11:33 pm: |
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would have been much easier to trade you`re 2.5" header for my 2" header |
Zedhead47
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 06:04 pm: |
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Dutch x1, Thank you for the offer, probably only easier for you though... I just bought this header and it would have been a sort of round about way to solve my exhaust dilemma. Do i guess correctly Dutch that you're located in Europe? |
Lakes
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 06:06 pm: |
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i still run 2" stock stainless header & an australian made stainless 2" sport muffler. but i have two spare head pipes one is 2.5" with EFI bung on rear pipe the other is 2" also with a Bung for EFI i'm still on original head pipe 80,000k up might just be lucky. i'm going to see how fast i can get trap speed 1/4 mile with 2" head pipe stock m2 motor carbon air cleaner lightning ignition module & 44cv ( bob woods 43.5 rebel carb ) SE cv44 manifold only reason i used the carb is i had it laying around and the stock jetted cv40 carb that came with bike was very lean. now it's runing nice & gets better gas mileage too. i'll check AFR on dyno just to make sure its right. i'm going to try to get 112mph trap speed 1/4 mile with 2" collector stock M2 motor. |
Zedhead47
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 06:38 pm: |
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Hey Lake, thanks for the info. My problems started when my top end started leaking and I got a little carried away with the rebuild. I thought if I have to rebuild it I might as well go BIG. So, after an NHRS 1250 kit, Andrews cams, a Zippers pushrod kit, and n S&S Super E carb. My mech and I thought we should beef up the top Eng isolater. We modified a tractor isolater (i.e. HD) and within 200 miles it tore, leaving the eng vibrating a little more than OEM. Thus the cracked pipes. |
Dutch_x1
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 10:02 pm: |
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zedhead yes i do live in europe (netherlands) |
Zedhead47
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2012 - 11:00 pm: |
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Yea, your screen name is a pretty good hint. A very good buddy of mine lives over there, Spijkenisse. From what I've seen there is a great bike scene in the Netherlands. |
Lakes
| Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2012 - 06:30 am: |
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Zedhead47 i think the Stenzel bar could possibly help your front issolator issue as it supports the issolators from forward to rear movement. made a difference to how my M2 handles. very happy with it. |
Zedhead47
| Posted on Monday, December 17, 2012 - 09:33 am: |
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Lakes thanks for the input. After reading your post I've read up on this Stenzel bar you're talking about, and it seems like a pretty good product. I'm wondering if it would still be necessary after going to the upgraded front isolater, and the billet motor mount? $$$ is a little scarce right now. |
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