| Author | Message | ||
     Rsm688 |
Okay, I know what yall might be thinking. Anyways, I am in the beginning of a full build on my M2. For my motor I am going to be blacking the whole thing out with a few red accents to match the frame. Anyways, I have been thinking about gunkote'ing the whole thing. It needs to be cured at 325-350 for 90 minutes. I can make a curing over to house my whole engine/primary which saves me having to pull the entire thing apart. My question is, would 325 for 90 minutes cause any damage to the motor/primary? I wouldnt think so considering the temperatures the motor gets up to, I just didnt know if it would cause a problem with the gaskets or anything else. All hoses and anything rubber would be removed from it. Everything on my bike is low mileage and in excellent mechanical shape so I really dont want to have to pull it all apart just to change the color. They have an air curing version but from what I have heard it is not quite as durable as the heat cured version. Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Hootowl |
325 is lower than the optimum operating temperature of the engine. And given that powder coating is also melted on a higher temps than that, I'd say you're fine. | ||
| Jim_d |
I'd be worried at what temp. will the babbitt in the bearings melt an or deform. | ||
| Kyrocket |
I'm not familiar with gunkote so I'll ask these questions; will it affect the heat dissipation, having a shell baked all around it? I visualize it as basically painting the windows shut, what about removing parts in the future? Can you exacto-blade around it and cut through it at the gasket area? I think you're going in the right direction though, big fan of the blacked out motor.  | ||
| Kc_zombie |
I think if it were me I would pull it apart. | ||
| Rsm688 |
It actually dissipates heat 5-10% better than bare metal, can easily remove parts, it's a very thin coating. More like staining the metal than an actual coat. Your motor looks awesome, that's exactly what I'm going for | ||
| Rsm688 |
After googling, it says the Melting point of most common Babbitts is 462 degrees with the lowest one I saw around 380. I figure the inside of the motor wont get anywhere near that especially if I'm baking at 325 for 90 minutes | ||
| Davefl |
I think you should worry about what is going to happen to the oil that is in the engine. Most are not going to like 325 degrees and the off gassing could affect the coating not to mention making a mess inside your crankcase.. If you want to do it pull it apart and degrease first. | ||
| Kyrocket |
Thanks for the compliment. I see you have a '99 Cyclone, I've got a '99 X1. I don't recall but did the Cyclone have the black or silver motor? Basically all I did to the one above (aesthetically anyway) was painted the rocker boxes after cleaning them really good while the wife was at work...  ...swapped out the chrome tube covers for some factory 2002's I believe, from e-bay and put on a carbon fiber timing plate cover. I rubbed the new rocker box parts (XB) down with alcohol and hit them with high temp bbq paint and it's held up wonderfully. I also cut down the cam cover, easy peasy to do in the garage. | ||
| Rsm688 |
I just spoke with The manufacturers and they said 325 at 60 minutes is sufficient to cure. If I drained all the oil from the motor/primary (I use synthetics which should withstand higher temps before the start breaking down), and then flush with fresh oil upon installation do you guys think there would be any problems? I can't imagine the inside of the motor getting too hot at 325 degrees temp on the outside for an hour but I'm not an expert Thanks, Spencer | ||
| Davefl |
Aluminum is a good conductor, I would bet that most of the engine will reach 325 in 60 min if not sooner ( Not an expert either ) Try and find out the smoke point of the oil you use. Put some in the oven at 325 degrees and see how much smoke you get. Little to none would be a green light. Heavy smoke would be a red light. | ||
| Oldog |
The engine is roller bearing where is the babbit? cam bushings are bronze the oil scorching may be the issue, what about the stator and or the starter are they still attached ? also the chain shoe is plastic consider that too. My 0.02$ is if the motor is apart do it as pieces, if not don't... | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
olddog makes valid points. Just tear into it and do it right brother, no worries then | ||
| S1owner |
The of gasing will effect your finish and then you will have to do twice the work just pull it apart and clean it then coat it you will be happier! Oh and i know some of you will not agree but a coated motor will cool better then a polished motor. Think of it this way when you polish the motor you create a very smooth flat surface looks great. When you coat it with wrinkle or another correct paint it creates micro bumps which create more surface for cooling and for the air to grab the heat. Its micro engineering but it is a fact does it make a huge diffrence probably not to any temp gauge we will ever see! (Message edited by S1owner on December 13, 2012) |
