| Author | Message | ||
     Terrycoxusa |
My S3 is using oil, a qt every 500miles, so I'm thinking it's time for a ring and hone job. Can this be done in frame, and how many hours am I looking at? Thanks as usual for your expertise, fellow tubers. | ||
| Kilroy |
I replaced my heads, pistons and cylinders with the motor in the frame. Not a problem at all. | ||
| Goody |
I just did a rebuild on my M2, out of the frame, the only thing I can see that will be a problem is getting the cylinders over the studs and not hitting the frame. Good luck. | ||
| Akbuell |
Interesting situation. The good news is you only have to replace the oil filter every so often; no used oil to dispose of.... My advice would be to do a compression and leak-down test first. Would be a shame to do the rings and find out that the valve stem seals were the issue. Of course, pulling the heads means pulling the cylinders anyway, to prevent future oil leaks. As it stands, perhaps just plan on refurbing the top end. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Lakes |
remove gas tank, remove pipe header, put a strap under motor, and loop over the tube frame, just for safety. put a jack under front shock mount with wood block or rubber bock between jack & shock mount. then undo front engine mount lower motor just enough to allow the barrels to come over the studs. no idea on time depends how good you are with a wrench. also i would recomend you use torque plates when you hone the barrels. good luck with it. the thing i hate about the m2 i got is the way the headers cross over across the push rod covers & under the carb. it makes working on motor harder. wish i had Duels on it like my Dyna twin cam. (Message edited by Lakes on November 19, 2012) | ||
| Coxster |
Just pulled the rear head off a couple of months ago in-frame. Not too big a deal, but my back is not in a hurry to do it again soon. | ||
| 46champ |
I did that same job a year and a half ago. Whole job was done in frame. When you pull the heads make sure the oil usage isn't from bad valve seals, fact is I would change them out of principle any time the motor was using oil and I was pulling the heads. If you get the correct valve spring compressor you can pull the valve springs without removing the front mount from the head. | ||
| Onespeedpaul |
if you are competent enough to do a ring and hone job yourself, lifting the frame off the engine should be simple. probably mandatory. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Easy as pie in frame,do it all the time. | ||
| Ratbuell |
In-frame is easy. Since your front mount comes off anyway (it goes to the front head), you need to support the bottom of the case. I used a low profile floor jack with a 2x4 "pad" (exhaust was already out of the way). Tank off, exhaust off, intake off...you can look down from above and you have a nice hollow "box" holding a pair of cylinders. Just lift. If the front one gets close to the steering head...lower that floor jack some (or raise it some) to get the clearance and angle you need. Definitely use torque plates on the cylinders before you put a hone to them. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
yeah, you can def pull your cylinders while motor is in the bike still. you'll be fine. | ||
| Dannybuell |
I have had three in frame ring jobs. As I recall the shop released some of the forward mounts and tie brackets , apparently so they could get the barrels off. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
What Jim said, I've done it many times on S2's M2's S3's and X1's. |
