| Author | Message | ||
     Pontlee77 |
Was cruising at 70mph at 3k revs suddenly the engine started to make a thumping noise i pulled in the clutch the oil light came on, had the bike towed back home on inspecting the crank case is destroyed, i will need to take the engine out and apart and see what can be saved and see where did it go wrong, so if any one is splitting an engine or if you know of a bottom end of an X1 available, please let me know, this will be a long time job. maybe i'll be better off getting a whole engine. | ||
| Snafu5962 |
crank case is destroyed? sounds like you are going to be using your existing engine for parts and looking for another.  | ||
| Lakes |
sounds like the roller bearings that roll between the male & female rods & the crank pin. i have pulled the big twin cranks apart, to replace the crank pin & rollers in the past. see if you can buy the right size roller bearings & crank pin. but first you need to see if that is whats wrong. just lift heads & barrels & you can feel the up & down move ment when you take hold of the rods. i have seen motors that had the rollers loose there case hardening and wear compleatly away to nothing. and the guy road till the piston started to hit the heads. was nothing left that you could re use. | ||
| Alfau |
Crank pin on X1 is pressed in and can't be repaired, Flywheel is a throw away item. Possibly could be repaired but definitely is not designed to disassemble. Original is still available..Part #23899-00YB Flywheel w/connecting Rod Assembly. Apparently the thing to do is install the vastly improved xb9 flywheel. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/417422.html | ||
| Snafu5962 |
That's weird because I just bored my crank rods 1 over and put a 1 over crank pin in my X1 this summer. | ||
| Stev0 |
The post 2000 cranks are rebuildable but not by most mechanics. If you look at Ducati cranks and most jap bikes, they have press together cranks and have been getting rebuilt for years. The easiest way out is a pre 2000 Sporty or Buell that is rebuildable by your average bike shop. Or buy an S&S crank. You're going to be up for a bit more than just a crank tho. I'd also be checking your oil pump drive gears. I had one fail on an X1 a few months back (lucky he noticed the oil light come on straight away and stopped the motor... no damage) and I found one on an S3 motor I was rebuilding that was just about to fail. Funnily enough both these motors had been run on low viscosity synthetic oil for a long time. I havn't seen this issue on the higher viscosity Diesel mineral oils I use. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Well i'll start to get in to work during this week, the place i saw broken was the front of the bottom end just behind the header, so when i get the exhaust off i'll have a better view of what happened, just i need some ideas such as which bottom end is compatible with the X1 (a sportster 1200?) (can an XB12 engine fit there?) i'm really lost here if it was an XB i would be much more clear as i know it better. In any case thank you for the replies. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
The crank case is broken on the front, so over this week i'll start taking the bike apart and see what is fine and what is shot, i was wondering a few things: would an XB engine be an answer or no way it will fit or work? a sportster 1200 crank case is the same as the X1? what engine options do i have? I may be better off with a whole engine. right now it has a stage 1 1250 NRHS top end, so i'm even if this was part of the problem forcing to much the bearings, until i don't take it apart i wont know what exactly went wrong. But i'll keep updating as i move on the work just will take a couple of days to relax and get ready, it will be a long term project as money is not flowing much and the bike is just a toy (still have the Uly to ride). | ||
| Stev0 |
hmmm.. you've got some work ahead of you. Any rigid mount sportster engine will fit.. XB's wont.. sorry. You'll need to use the heads off yours (hopefully they're not too badly damaged and can be freshened up) if you use a sporty engine as the sporty heads aren't drilled for the temp sensor and the front mount is a size smaller on the sporties. Alternatively you may be able to get a machine shop to drill and tap the sporty heads to suit the temp sender and mount bolt. Hopefully you'll have some bits that are serviceable. We'll see when it comes apart. (Message edited by stev0 on October 23, 2012) | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Thanks Stev0 i guess if i find a 883 sportster engine and if my cylinders are ok i guess the base would need to be bored to fit the cylinders. I guess a good idea will be to video record the progress, and do like a video guide of all the procedures for future reference. | ||
| Stev0 |
cases are the same for 883 and 1200. the difference is in the cylinders themselves, there's a 1/4" more material in an 883 cylinder than a 1200.. 3" bore vs 3.5" a useless bit of trivia for you.. 883's are actually heavier than 1200's for this reason I don't think your cylinders are going to be worth saving unless you're a very lucky boy. | ||
| Kyrocket |
 I know what you mean. I was missing an entire cage and most of the bearings were square once I split the flywheels apart. | ||
| Midnight_rider |
SteveO do you think the synthetic oil's can cause premature wear on bearing? i was told by a old mechanic that it causes bearing skate which can flat side a bearing this has been talked about before... just wanted to know your thoughts? | ||
| Stev0 |
G'day Midnight .. "SteveO do you think the synthetic oil's can cause premature wear on bearing? i was told by a old mechanic that it causes bearing skate which can flat side a bearing this has been talked about before... just wanted to know your thoughts?" -------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------- This is NOT an oil flame thread but this is my experiance. That skate thing is an old wives tail.. I use syn oils in different vehicles with no problems. On a HD/Buell motor I use a brand of oil we have here called Penrite and I use their 20-60 Mineral Diesel oil. HD used to recommend a class 4 diesel oil if you couldn't get their oil. Oil technology has improved heaps over the year to the point where I think most of the oil issues are marketing rather than fact. I guess you've got to have a gimmick to sell stuff these days. I've been building engines including HD's for a lot of years now and I have never seen an oil related issue on a HD/Buell motor running a high viscosity mineral oil. I have, however, in recent times seen oil pump drive gear failures on engines that have been running low viscosity synthetics. The jury is still out as far as I'm concerned but all mine and my customers HD/Buell engines run a high quality Diesel oil. I think some of the heavier syns would be fine in a HD/Buell but I think the price is a waste of money in most applications. | ||
| Midnight_rider |
Thanks for info | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Working on the bike i took the header and exhaust off, the hole in the front part is the size of a golf ball, i fitted mu finger in and i could move the shaft, so i'm guessing it broke some where, still a lot of work to take the engine out and dig in there. | ||
| Stev0 |
I'm guessing you have a less severe case of "throwing a leg out" than this Gixxer   | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Leg didn't come out but the hole close to that size. | ||
| Kalali |
Love carnage pictures...More please... | ||
| Fast1075 |
I don't have any pics, but I saw turbo CBX sawmill the motor completely in half when it came unglued when the chain broke at launch at the drag strip back in the days before rev limiters. Only the creator himself knows how high that engine twisted before it blew. Dern shame, it had the best bits (read expensive) that you could by in it. | ||
| Stev0 |
Yeah it's a pain when ya don't get the footage. That gixxer block in the pic threw the leg out while Clive was doing a high chair wheelie at about 70mph. He was lucky it threw it out that far and didn't mousetrap him. The flameball as the oil spewed onto the headers was awesome. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Huh. Never thought about it, but I suppose an inline four would have a split big end rod. | ||
| Stev0 |
"Huh. Never thought about it, but I suppose an inline four would have a split big end rod." The newer I4's do but some of the older I4's had roller bearing mains and were pressed together, like the 2000 and newer HD cranks. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If they did it all in one step, I bet that was a pretty dang cool looking press back at the factory! | ||
| Stev0 |
Not sure how they do it in the factory but I've rebuilt them in a normal heavy duty shop press. Multi cylinder two stroke outboard engines are the same. You need to know what you're doing tho, it's not a job for a spare parts replacer at your local dealer | ||
| Pontlee77 |
after taking off the rear cylinder i now know for sure the front shaft is broken, so next step take the engine out and take off the front cylinder | ||
| Buellistic |
That looks like my 1958 XL SPORTSTER, "BUT" at 8000 RPM both my rods broke just under the pistons poked the cases 360 degrees !!! "i" looked back behind me and there was a BIG CLOUD of smoke and engine parts tumbling out of the smoke ... | ||
| Rick_a |
This is the ugliest I've seen:  |
