| Author | Message | ||
     Buellbrother |
Hello, I purchased my first bike and my first Buell this past week. Im in love with it, throws all of my friends off with the sound and quality of ride compared to there foreigner bikes....... Now the problem that i am having is a good amount of fuel coming out of a breather hose (im assuming its what the hose is) located under the rear fender. The hose is zip tied to the frame. The problem first occurred when i cold started the bike this morning with full choke, fuel was POURING. when i closed the choke it stopped. It continues to do this to me now. My newest addition is currently parked in the garage and im not liking it parked....... Any help from my fellow Bullers is much appreciated!!! -Adam- | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Got a picture? If it's the one down by your foot, it's probably the tank vent. If you overfill the tank, it'll pour out. If you run the tank down a bit, does the fuel stop? Two things Buells don't like: Overfilling the oil Overfilling the tank. Fill it to the bottom of the rubber lip in the tank but no further. Trace the hose to it's attachment point, and I'll bet it attaches to the nipple in front of the filler cap. | ||
| Buellbrother |
I am currently trying to shrink the size of the photo to enable me to post a pic of the hose. The fuel tank actually was very low on fuel, I had to switch it to the reserve just to get to the gas station from my house. | ||
| Buellbrother |
 this is where my fuel was spewing from! | ||
| Kilroy |
That is not a stock hose - trace it to the other end and let us know where it connects to. | ||
| Kevmean |
Has the bike been parked with the fuel tap left turned on ? .............. If so it may have drained all it's fuel into the sump if the float needle valve in the carb has stuck open (never ever leave fuel turned on when parked ) if it has it will have diluted the oil to a dangerous level regarding lubricating the engine and will also force the excess fuell oil mix out of the engine via any vent possible. If that is the problem ALL fuel and oils need fully draining including from the oil gallery underneath the crankcase and new oil and filter fitting ............run for a short time and then flush out again. Remember ....... NEVER leave fuel tap turned on when parked up , it could be the most expensive tank of fuel ever. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
If that vent hose is connected like mine, it attached to the primary. You are sure this is fuel and not primary fluid? | ||
| 01x1buell |
it kind of looks like oil marks on the underneath. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
If it's the breather, you'll be replacing the crank seal. Soon. | ||
| Screamer |
Kevmean is correct in his description. One thing to add is that if the crankcase gets enough fuel in it, the fuel will leak past the crank seal and dilute the primary fluid. This can lead to an "over-filled" primary condition which causes the trans fluid/gas mixture to blow out the transmission vent line. If the vent line in question goes to the top of the transmission part of the crankcase, the situation described above is likely the problem. The solution is as Kevmean describes, drain and change the engine oil/filter and the primary fluid, and always shut-off the fuel valve in the future. Also, It may be worthwhile to check the condition of the needle and seat of the carb . | ||
| Buellistic |
REMEMBER THIS: CARB. Models !!! TURN THE GAS OFF IF YOU TRAILER !!! IF YOU ARE NOT RIDING, TURN YOUR GAS OFF !!! | ||
| Buellbrother |
Kevmean, you are correct I left the fuel valve on while sitting overnight just due to the fact of not knowing the importance of it ALWAYS being in the off position when the bike is not being ridden. It does seem to be a mixture of fuel and oil but mostly fuel. (maybe primary fluid but has a strong smell of fuel) The hose is routed back to primary like ft bstrd said is on his bike..... So the fix for now is, flush the entire system run it the flush it again? And probably need to replace the crank seal? Is the crank seal a difficult and in depth replacement? I will attach a photo of where i traced the line back to....  The help is greatly appreciated!!!!!! -Adam- | ||
| Buellistic |
CHANGE the "ENGINE" and "TRANSMISSION" as gasoline contaminated oil will pass by the very easily where good oil is thicker and may not ... Do not jump the gun until it can be proved yes or no !!! | ||
| Dannybuell |
Buellistic a badweb expert, one of the best. | ||
| Buellbrother |
thank you very much buellistic, this might be a dumb question and i apologize in advance.... but can you inform me where the transmission filler cap and drain plug is located? And how to know if the transmission level is low or high?? I have ordered a service manual but have not received it yet! | ||
| 01x1buell |
primary drain plug is underneath on the primary side, the filler hole is the inspection cover on side or the derby cover. 1 quart will do. | ||
| Kalali |
"..started the bike this morning with full choke, fuel was POURING..." I'm hardly an expert but if you have this much fuel coming out of the primary I think a simple drain & fill is not going to solve your issue. It seems you have a rather clear path right from the tank to the primary through the crankcase. | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLbrother: You have mail !!! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Drain plug is the rear bottom bolt under the primary, the front one is your primary chain adjuster. If you are mechanically inclined, motivated to learn or have done your own vehicle maintenance in the past you can do the main seal. You need several large sockets for removing the stator nut and clutch nut, some sort of improvised or purchased primary locking tool so you can remove the nuts just listed, and a seal pulling tool of some sort. You will also need to borrow or improvise a seal driver to put the new seal in. There is a seal driver tool thread open, where someone contracted a machinist to make a bunch of them, maybe someone close to you has purchased one. There is also a thread regarding seal replacement where I did many things wrong. It's not too bad if you do it right. Perhaps reading that thread will help you avoid some mistakes. Nice looking bike in your profile. There are many things from the S1 pdf manual in the knowledge vault that will cross over in application to your bike, big mechanicals and primary especially... if you do not have a service manual for your bike, they are invaluable. Scroll to the bottom for "Service Manual - Buell S1 Lightning Service Manual" , just above Buell FAQs: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/3607.html?1346123426 | ||
| Koz5150 |
I have had my M2 for 10 years and never once turned the fuel valve off, even when storing the bike in the winter. | ||
| Ocbueller |
Koz5150, You have been lucky. A friend of mine on this board was almost killed for failure to turn off his petcock. This was a Triumph but it can happen to any brand. His needle and seat assy. on the carb stuck open while sitting in the garage, it filled his crankcase with fuel. Down the road his crank vent dumped that oil and fuel mix all over his rear wheel. He discovered this while downshifting for an upcoming lefthander. Luckily the car in front of him moved just in time for him to cross the road and slide to a stop. Please use your petcock. SteveH | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
"I have had my M2 for 10 years and never once turned the fuel valve off, even when storing the bike in the winter." You win. Your floats and valve are the best I have ever heard of. Literally every carbed bike I have ever used has at one time or another had some little grain of crap get stuck under the valve seat, allowing a dribble. Problem with the H-D layout of engines is that the dribble could potentially funnel its way into the engine when it's on the sidestand. The results are pretty bad= No lube for the cylinder wall+rings at startup. Diluted oil being pumped through the whole engine. | ||
| Lakes |
is the Carb a stock CV40? I'm asking as some performance carb's have a float bowl drain hose, that if the carb floods, like dirt under needle seat or float set too high. it will let fuel go from carb float bowl to ground, just like the tank breather. with the stock CV40 carb this does not happed, what happens with stock carb if float too high or dirt under needle & gas tap left open while bike not runing , is the fuel runs into manifold, fills up top of motor then would go down the bore into crank case ( i had that happen once with a kick start only harley ) when i tried to kick start it was impossible to get it to run, was hard to kick over. i took air cleaner off & when i got it to fire fuel came out the crank breather hose. had to shut off drain crank, drain oil put new oil in. i have never left a gas tap on again i always turn them off even if they are vacume. | ||
| Onahog |
You should also check the breathers in the heads...If plugged or flappers in rocker boxes closed, the engine will build excessive crankcase pressure..Its gotta go somewhere, so pushes everything thru crank seal, into primary/trans and out the hose..if enough fluid and pressure, it"ll blow it all out.. I too always shut fuel valves OFF..I change out HD vacum operated to manuls...Iv had a vacum one fail and not let fuel because the diagpram was hooped in the fule valve....One should never rely on just the needle and seat in the carb ... Ya ever see on someones gas tank..Turn the fuel on Dummy? Thats someone who programed themselves to always turn it off...Injected versions are a whole new ball game..No valve!! My 2 cents, thats all..LOL..  |
