| Author | Message | ||
     Onespeedpaul |
wanted to start a swingarm thread on the two main tuber styles, the late X1/M2 aluminum vs. the early steel swinger. i have a trimmed and semi-polished aluminum swinger i installed on my box-o-parts S1, but am now considering re-installing the old steelie...thoughts? | ||
| Foximus |
No advantages to steel... | ||
| Onespeedpaul |
well, my thinking was the steel one is easier to weld on, like bracing it (for looks really) or giving it a 1" extension or flipping the shock eye around to raise the ride height....speaking of that, check your PM's! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
You should also include the modern XB style that holds oil and allows for the use of a traditional shock with the removal of the original oil tank. | ||
| Foximus |
replied. XB swing arm extends bike 2-3 inches if I remember. Not a good thing. | ||
| Tombo |
The aluminum swingarm is more rigid than the older steel unit, but because it uses so much material I believe it is actually slightly heavier than the steel version (I have spares of both and that is how it feels but I have not actually weighed either of them). The main reason I have not changed to aluminum is just aesthetic preference, I like the simple appearance of the older unit, though I think the braced race units look the best. | ||
| Onespeedpaul |
Ya, the Xb swinger is defo out of the question, and thanks! | ||
| Onespeedpaul |
And yeah tombo from a pure aesthetic standpoint I'm just not liking the way it looks as the steelie. | ||
| Foximus |
The heliarc swing arm is lighter. | ||
| Mikeyp |
I think there was a comparsion on the steelie swinger vs the aluminum in an old B2win mag. Ill try and dig it up. But for me i like the aluminum swingarm purely on looks. | ||
| Roderick |
...aluminum swingarm purely on looks. Me too. I would like a conversion for this winter project. Something to keep me busy. I know a few have done it, but I do have a few questions... 1- Were those conversions 'one man job', or is there a point where a second person is absolutely necessary? 2- Must the four bolts on the engine/swingarm mount be replaced? If yes, what are the H/D part numbers? Or can I just use any high strength bolts? 3- Is the S1 long bolt P/N 2450Y reusable on the alum arm? 4- Are the two S1 adjusting bolts P/N 47685-97Y 47743-97Y reusable on the alum arm? I do have the alum swingarm, new swingarm roller bearings, X1 axle and adjusters, new mount block, new rear isolators, and new belt. I plan to change the rear isolators, belt, then bolt in the entire swingarm/mount assembly. Any flaws or anything else missing in that plan? Thnx for any advice. | ||
| Onespeedpaul |
sounds like you've got it covered. | ||
| Rick_a |
I prefer the steel arm.  (Message edited by Rick_A on October 14, 2012) | ||
| Onespeedpaul |
you brace that yourself? | ||
| Rick_a |
No, I had Revolution Performance extend it 1" and brace it. This is the Buell "race swingarm" for comparison:   If you have Revo Performance do it, make sure they know it's not for a drag racer or it'll end up like this:  Does not work so well with a bike that has functioning rear suspension and is not lowered. | ||
| Blks1l |
Rick A does the swingarm not work so well because the bracing interferes with the belt? | ||
| Mikeyp |
I will admit that the braced stock one looks the tits. | ||
| Drixton |
   | ||
| Cheez2158 |
All three are beautiful but how do you see in the dark  | ||
| Cheez2158 |
Seriously though does any one know what steel the bracing is crom moly mild steel pipe heavy wall it looks like a cheap and effective way to stiffen up the swing arm | ||
| S1owner |
Roderick its a one man job i did my entire bike by myself. Hoist the back end in the air witn a strap or cherry picker etc set the bike back down over the swing arm and isolators use a little silicone lube on the isolators and use a putty knife or similiar to get them started and it will slide right over | ||
| S1owner |
Roderick its a one man job i did my entire bike by myself. Hoist the back end in the air witn a strap or cherry picker etc set the bike back down over the swing arm and isolators use a little silicone lube on the isolators and use a putty knife or similiar to get them started and it will slide right over | ||
| Rick_a |
The bracing will not interfere so long as it's set up for the proper travel, ride height, and gearing.
The stock swingarm is plenty stiff. The only reason to brace the stocker is if it is extended. The bracing reinforces where it's been grafted together. | ||
| Roderick |
Roderick its a one man job i did my entire bike by myself. Hoist the back end in the air witn a strap or cherry picker etc set the bike back down over the swing arm and isolators use a little silicone lube on the isolators and use a putty knife or similiar to get them started and it will slide right over You did not have to maneuver the engine itself as instructed in the S1 Service Manual? How about the steps in this source? http://www.americanthunderbike.org/techtips/isolat or.phpv According to previous posts here, I must use new bolt for the swingarm to shock. I wonder what is the latest part ID for that. | ||
| Tombo |
Those braced arms look great. Drixton, any info on those shock systems? Roderick, if you are changing the swingarm block (which eliminates the need to do some grinding on the old block to fit the aluminum swingarm) then I would highly recommend the ATC method. One of my bikes was the test mule for the method and removing the swingarm block turned out to be the hardest part of the job. | ||
| Bull |
Oh, can you post a couple of extra pics on the steel race swingarm? Would be nice since I have an extra spare swingarm lying around and I might just ask my welder to replicate it! Thaks in advance! | ||
| S1owner |
The shock system on those bikes are a conversion that allows you to use a classic push shock instead of a pull shock. Speed of Color sells them and a few others | ||
| Buellistic |
My IMHO's are(OEM swing arms only): Although the metal one is heavier(even when re-enforced it looks more RACE'er)it is easier to adjust the rear wheel position and to lengthen ... The aluminum one looks better polished, is stronger and lighter, looks like you installed a XB one ... Ever think about lowering the front end than extending the swing arm ??? | ||
| Roderick |
Roderick, if you are changing the swingarm block (which eliminates the need to do some grinding on the old block to fit the aluminum swingarm) then I would highly recommend the ATC method. One of my bikes was the test mule for the method and removing the swingarm block turned out to be the hardest part of the job. How difficult was it in accessing the four swingarm/engine block mount bolts? And can I re-use them? By the way, the 'americanthunderbike.org' link is dead. Was good a few days ago. Good thing I pdf-ed the webpage with those instructions. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
I dont know if you CAN reuse them, but important bolts like that I always replace if I take them off They're pricey bolts, thats for sure, its an odd one, not G8, f911 or something couldnt find them locally, had to go online, but they werent too expensive (buying those plus the ones for the front motor mount) |
