| Author | Message | ||
     Roderick |
How compatible are the SS2Rs for these older Buells? As far as I know, the manufacturer's P/N for the S1 is 16515, for the S3 is 16519. As long as the pipe diameter is the same, are they interchangeable between the Buell models? Any adverse effects? | ||
| Blks1l |
I think there was a difference in the angle of the pipe on the front of the muffler from the early exhaust to the late exhaust. So maybe not quite a bolt on, but they have bothebeen made to work. | ||
| Roderick |
So internally, there are no differences? | ||
| Two_seasons |
Internally there is no difference. What is different is your front and rear mounts. Make sure you get the one specifically for your model. | ||
| Roderick |
Does that 'no internal differences' applies to SS2Rs for other bikes as well? You think? Because V/H no longer make the SS2R for Buells but apparently still for other brands. If only the mounts are different, then may be I could install a used one from a friend's bike. Am thinking of having a local shop cut off all mounts and use custom clamps instead. Or may be I should budget out longer and buy the Torque Hammer from the new guys. | ||
| Preybird1 |
I had a carbon fiber one that was $525 it vibrated to crap and melted inside. I loved the weight reduction of it and the power it made but it died to soon. | ||
| Roderick |
I see that JPC have an SS2R for the Blast for about 300. Wonder if I can use it for my S1, minus the mounts, of course. Certainly would be le$$ than 500 for the others. | ||
| Two_seasons |
SS2R is not a bad slip on. But, it's loud! What about a Drummer? They sound good. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
If i was in the US i'd give you the V&N ss2r that has a couple of dents and the head pipe also, but i live in Spain so shipping would be crazily expensive. | ||
| Edv |
If your SS2R is loud it needs repacking | ||
| Roderick |
Will this... http://www.jpcycles.com/product/V16535 ...Work on my S1, without the brackets? | ||
| Edv |
I believe the inlet will be too small for your S-1 | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Your profile only shows an X1, what year S1 do you have? Are you running a stock muffler now? I ran a V&H pipe for a few years, they're okay if you stay away from the carbon that Preybird mentioned. You loose midrange on the 99+ model years, even over the stock pipe I wasn't impressed. BUT for the 96-98 S1's the V&H was supposed to be killer. Perhaps you've already read up and are looking at them for that reason? There are/were some other pipes available for the S1's too, the Supertrapp is a nice, sturdy, tuneable option. Staintune will be hard to come by but you might find a used one out there, Jardine may have made them too but I cannot recall. There's some nice articles written on S1 pipes someone scanned and posted here in the old school section in the last year or two. if I've got some time to kill I'll dig in and see what I can turn up for you. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Oh, Short answer is it depends very much on what years you are looking at. Long answer: I believe the '98 S3 ran the same muffler as the S1W, so it would have a 2 1/2" inlet, not the 2" that the S1 ran. I'm not well versed in all the S2/S3 model years though so would need to know what years you are comparing. If there was a S3 in 96/97 you should be able to use that, maybe it ran a black pipe instead of a stainless or something along those lines which would give it a different model number. The 99+ model year bikes all run a 2 1/2" inlet but it lines up different than the '98 S1W/S3 inlet so you wouldn't have direct fitment on those either as Blks1l said. Edv is right on the Blast muffler too, prolly won't work but maybe you could get one of the guys in the Thumper section to measure the inlet on theirs, and see if maybe you could get a local machine shop or muffler shop to fabricate an inlet for you if the Blast inlet is close to a 2" diameter. | ||
| Roderick |
My '98 S1 have the 2 in. pipe. The current SS2R have a broken front bracket. It broke all the way thru, not at the lower welds at the inlet pipe, but at the top eye where it is bolted to the engine hanger. So now the can is attached by the front pipe clamp and by the rear mount. I have the improved front hanger not yet installed. I would like to retain the current SS2R, with repacking, as a spare, and install a new can. If I can find another SS2R, that would be good, else over the winter I would budget for the new Torque Hammer. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Found your post on the UT Buellers thread, sorry I didn't recall that S1. Check in on Ebay frequently, they pop up from time to time. I would be surprised to see anything locally on CL or KSL but I check them both periodically out of general curiosity. I haven't seen any S1 parts recently. There is a fellow in Toole selling S1 parts but he doesn't have a muffler as I recall. Nice enough fellow but he's got his head in the clouds about parts pricing. He came by a year or so ago to compare shock and linkages on his S1 vs my M2. I will PM you if I see anything in my general looking about. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'm not a fan of the SS2R. Torque/midrange just vanishes, and they like to fall apart even when properly installed. There was one on my S1W when I got it. Swapped to the Buell race exhaust and oh-my-GAWD what a difference. The SS2R is good at making noise...but that's about all I give it credit for. Another can I had great luck with on my '99 M2, was an IDS Supertrapp. Marketed as a Buell slip-on, totally tuneable, and AWESOME power and sound. We need an exhaust sticky, or a link at the top of the forum, for headers/mufflers/years/models/interchanges...admin ? | ||
| 96s2t |
One can tune a wide range of mufflers to produce power on the Buell motor. Just slapping a slip-on and saying it doesn't give good power without jetting the carb is just silly. | ||
| Ratbuell |
which is why I always re-jet with any changes, and my plugs always read correct. The SS2R still puts a hole in the midrange. | ||
| Kalali |
"The SS2R still puts a hole in the midrange." Not necessarily. That's if you use the stock fuel/timing maps in the X1/S3 applications. You can easily smooth out the curve by tweaking the fuel maps. My X1 with SS2R pulls steady from idle to redline. Took a little while to get it dialed in but it is absolutely possible. I like the sound but that's purely a personal taste. | ||
| Coxster |
With my recent addition of the stainless header and the SS2R (with baffle and packing) I can honestly say my M2 is running the best it has since I bought it 366 days ago. It does NOT sound like a Homely-Dinosaur, and isn't quite loud enough to drown out hip-hop at intersections while idling, but I just plain love this bike all over again | ||
| Kilroy |
you must love it - 366 days and counting | ||
| 96s2t |
I have a 96 S2T with SE cams in lightning heads,SE ignition, stock rejetted carb and a carbon fiber SSR with half the packing and it sounds great. A little on the loud side but that's the way I like it. What a beast. It has always been a reliable bike and turns heads. I don't think I will ever own a more satisfying motorcycle. I have owned over 50. | ||
| 96s2t |
I should also add that if you get your hands on a CF SS2R, you should pay special attention to the way the stainless bracket mounts to the bike. If the bracket is being pulled under tension away from the bike when you are tightening the two mounting bolts the thin bracket will probably break. I installed two rubber cushions to take up some space between the bracket and the frame. How do I know? I broke 2 brackets in the first 2 months until I took a closer look at it. Also...the CF can makes a different sound than the aluminum can. (Message edited by 96s2t on September 28, 2012) | ||
| Littlebuggles |
So according to the Battle2win exhaust shoot out the V&H was a killer slip-on for the pre-Thunderstorm engined bikes (98 S1W/S3, 99+ model years) The exhaust shoot out was referenced in the articles scanned in here, I'm still looking for the 96 shoot out specifically, I know it was scanned and posted here as well, about the same time these articles were posted, scroll down the thread for the tests for the 99+ model year pipes: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/624706.html?1334747055 Joe, your info is usually spot on, but the articles I read said the V&H was just about perfect for the early engines. I was surprised by what I read because I wasn't particularly impressed with the one I ran on my 2000 Cyclone. I like the performance (no midrange hole as you mentioned) a lot more with my current IDS Supertrapp, the White Brothers was nice too, but it had unpleasant side effects. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Funjimmy scanned all the articles here, I found this in the thread I posted above, but this will make for easier linkage to the actual body of exhaust articles, good stuff: http://s243.photobucket.com/albums/ff229/FunJimmy/ Buell%20S1/Battle2Win/ Verified links are still good, enjoy some enlightening Friday night reading. | ||
| Coxster |
Thx for the links! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
No problem | ||
| Roderick |
So here it goes...  Like I said earlier, I noticed the front bracket crack a while ago and thought I could milk it until end of month when I would park it for the winter, but last Saturday on the ride home from work, I noticed vibrations through the pegs that was not there in the AM. Got home and found the eyelet -- gone. Anyway...I already had on hand the repack kit from American Sport Bike, so on my days off I cleaned and repacked the can. My first repack and with some masking tape to hold the material in place, got it all put together in about 20 min. I would like to have a local shop weld a band/strap all the way around the pipe and not just simply weld up a new eyelet at the same location. Is that too much to ask of any 'automobile' oriented shop? I do have a highly recommended muffler specialty shop from a couple guys at work who had some 4x4 work done. Or do I need to take it to a 'bike' shop, which in my case would be SLC/HD? Will also use the newer mount. Any advice? (Message edited by roderick on October 14, 2012) | ||
| Coxster |
most machine shops have welding capabilities, and are willing to listen to you. They will charge you to do it exactly the way you want it done, but it would be good to have a working relationship with one anyway |
