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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through October 23, 2012 » PM wheel bearing Hell! « Previous Next »

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Gixxer86g
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 02:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The other day while inspecting my 99 X1, I noticed some play on the drive side of the rear wheel. Today I had the time to take off the wheel. Not good. Both bearings spun in the wheel. I could pull the outer out by hand, and a screwdriver. I don't know how long it's been like this, but it must of been for a long time.

When I bought the bike, the belt was way too tight, and I loosened it. But it must have been too late. What to do?



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Foximus
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 02:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ouch. Seems to be your best option other than buying a new wheel, would be to have it bored out, a sleeve pressed in... Or some machinists would weld a bead and then re bore that to spec....


I'll be selling my PM rear soon though if not.
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Gixxer86g
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How soon?
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Foximus
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 02:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I dont know? Most likely 2 or 3 weeks?
But if your in dire need I could start my motor tear down sooner rather than later.
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Gixxer86g
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

We'll see what happens. There's a set of new PMs in the classifieds..........
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 04:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Wow. Nice carnage shot!
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Buellistic
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 08:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DRIVE BELTS that are too tight cause this, just PM me for DRIVE BELT ADJUSTMENT Class 101 ...

"AND", yes you can clean and repack SEALED BEARINGS !!!
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 09:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Press the bearings out and replace. Do not clean and re-pack. The damage is done.

Good luck!
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Harleyelf
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

He didn't have to press them out, they fell out because the races spun and chewed up the hub.

Locating that wheel to cut an accurate center in the re-welded bearing counter-bore will be difficult. I'd buy a new wheel. Off center bearing races lead to handling issues.
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Easy_rider
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had a sleeve put in mine without any issues. It's been too many years to remember the price but it seems like it was a neighbor price of $40. It turned out my left side was a little loose as well but Loctite makes an adhesive that filled the gap I had. Point is, it's very doable but be prepared to address both sides.
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Blks1l
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2012 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was also able to repair mine with the Green Loctite, but it wsan't worn near what the pictures make yours out to be. As mentioned previously a competent machinest could fix that bore and sleeve it so you could reinstall a new bearing.
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Gixxer86g
Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2012 - 06:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buellistic, I did adjust the belt as per your tutorial, I think the damage was already done by the previous owner, it just wasn't noticable at the time of adjustment.

How do you guys feel about using something wrapped around the bearing to shim them?
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Kc_zombie
Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2012 - 07:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just so happens I have a set of PM wheels I need to get rid of. PM me if your interested.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2012 - 07:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wouldn't trust shim material for that. First choice would be have a machinist sleeve it; otherwise I'd try the Loctite stuff made for the purpose, Loctite Press Fit Repair 660:

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Numb_nutz
Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2012 - 01:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A trick we used to do on old cars was to take a center punch and make six punch marks where the bearings press into the wheel. That will tighten it up. Also use loctite 660. Did this to mine 12k ago and no problems. Or you could buy a new wheel. Good luck.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2012 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good idea on the center punch. It makes a raised "dimple" around the center depression. If you get one of those "inertia" type spring loaded punches, it'll make it easier to make the dimples consistent.

BTW- the center punch trick also works well for making worn, slippery Uly footpegs a little "grabbier".
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Oldog
Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2012 - 06:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That wheel is not fixable with loctite and a center punch

My advice is dis assemble the wheel and have it sleeved, by a competent shop. Also get a new bearing spacer check the bearings on the other side.

Pm wheels can run out at the rim about .050" IIRC, If you study them you will see that they are build up in sections and welded together, finding the center of the wheel on a lathe or mill is not a big deal
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Gixxer86g
Posted on Wednesday, October 10, 2012 - 06:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I'm going to replace it. I just feel better that way.
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Rick_a
Posted on Thursday, October 11, 2012 - 09:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd get it repaired. If you can find a competent shop it won't run much. I've had a local shop do several small jobs for me and all of them have been surprisingly affordable.

Mine hasn't spun a bearing but the drive side outer has become a little loose over the years. It's currently a slip fit.
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Pontlee77
Posted on Thursday, October 11, 2012 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

in old days using a piece of a can of coke did the job, but it was on small bikes, wrapping it around the bearing made it tight. on my X1 shot bearings i got pair FAG bearings for just over 30$
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