| Author | Message | ||
     Nein_collins |
Hey guys.. does anyone else have issues with their bikes around the first big temperature change of the year? Background - 2000 X1, race ecm, supertrapp exhaust, cf race intake, new ets, new o2, tps reset, afv 120% The ets was replaced in april once I found it was bad...after I replaced intake seals and did a whole slew of other "throw money at it" ideas. Afv ran at 120% after intake seal change...ran fine though... fast forward to now....been running like a champ all summer...been riding every day..bike now has over 32k miles on it. One day not long ago I mixed some 100 octane in with the 93 gas...no issues. Time for more gas and I stop at a station I don't normally go to (cheap gas too) and I fill up and venture out to a doctors appointment. About this time our daily temps have changed from 70s at night and 90s in the day to 50s at night and 70-80s in the day. While I'm on my way back from doctors appointment on the highway I get a check engine light..and lo and behold as I pull off the highway a few miles later, it starts cutting out like the plugs are fouled. The big difference this time is that idling it's ok (smells a little rich) and when I go to start out it cuts out (under load). Also it's doing that when riding...yet I pull in the clutch and rev it and no cutting out. When I checked the cel code in ecmspy it said o2 sensor inactive. I have since turned the 02 off - same results, replaced o2 - same results, new plugs - same results. Usually this running issue occurs after getting off the highway...but this morning, it started after about 10-15 minutes of sitting in stop and go traffic. It's ridable, cause it's not fouling the plugs (on the contrary, the plugs are showing a very normal combustion) but it's still not right. Temps this morning were in the 50 degree range. I have no plastic covers on the engine either. Summers here are very hot on the bike, sitting in traffic, idling a lot and a few times it went in to skip spark mode to cool down from heat. I'll change the intake seals again if I have to (changed them in march of this year - can do the job in about 2 hours now..lol) but I reeeeeallly don't want to..lol. Any other suggestions guys? Thanks Gray | ||
| Akbuell |
Hopefully,someone here knows about race ECU's, and can advise if the AFV should be at 100. Might start there and see how it goes. I recently had some miss issues. Checked the service manual, and found that one way to check the injectors is to remove airbox stuff so you can see into the intake manifold. The book has the throttle body off; I just looked in there with a small mechanics mirror and a strong flashlight. Hold the throttle wide open,turn the key on (don't start the bike), then turn the stop/run switch to run, and hold for 2 seconds. Then off for 2 seconds. Repeat for a total of 5 times. Replace the injector if you have raw fuel in the manifold. In my case, I had a wet stain around the rear injector. I thought of it as 'drooling'. That caused the 02 sensor to think the bike was rich, and my AFV was in the 80's. Easy test to run, may give you a direction to go ..... | ||
| Thejosh |
Yeah, I was going to ask why your AFV was at 120, did you tps reset when the motor was at running temp? | ||
| Kevmean |
My X1 runs around 120 AFV with the Buell race kit ..... are you sure it's not contaminated fuel or a sidestand switch just starting to go bad on you hence why when you pull clutch in it revs ok ? | ||
| 01x1buell |
when my bike received , race maps, intake and exhaust, it ran lean 120/130, so i added more fuel, across the board and it worked perfect and after a little tweaking for a couple of months with the maos it runs like a champ. | ||
| Kevmean |
If it runs 120/130 it isn't running lean because it has made the correction for you  It is just showing what difference it has made to the base maps........ So people who don't fancy altering their base maps with ecmspy have no need to worry | ||
| Two_seasons |
Sounds like you got some bad gas. I would check the ETS wire for chafing. Also, make sure you do TPS reset with bike fully warmed up. Set for 5.6 degrees and then adjust idle for around 1100rpm. | ||
| Buellistic |
With fuel injection it is important that the REAR HEADER GASKET, INTAKE SEALS, and IGNITION TIMING are good !!! | ||
| Kevmean |
Also remember that your O2 sensors only earth path is through the exhaust system at the heads the rest of the system is hanging in rubber bushes so basically if the header nuts come loose then you then suffer a bad earth for the O2 sensor which can screw up the fuelling. | ||
| Kalali |
The cooler weather may or may not be a mere coincidence but it could be the moisture in the air affecting a marginal plug wire. Might also be worth cleaning all the grounds particularly the strap on the end of the swing arm and the junction box under the seat. And regarding the notion of AFV 120/130 being OK since the bike makes the correction, that is not really accurate. The problem with that logic is that the ECM is measuring the AFV in the closed loop area but it will apply the difference to the entire map. So you'll end up getting 30% more fuel in parts of the fuel map that may not need it. Outside of a very poorly molested fuel map, an AFV of 130 normally indicates some "unaccounted" air getting into the air intake tract. |
