| Author | Message | ||
     Rick_a |
Well, it's a start... My new front engine mount brace came in.  It just needs a couple holes, and some bending and shaping and such. If I get it right, I'll have a nice new part. | ||
| Greg_cifu |
How to sculpt an elephant: 1) Get a really big piece of marble 2) Remove everything that does not look like an elephant. | ||
| Foximus |
Looking from the reflection on the leather... I'd personally say you wen ttoo thick. LoL. Seems to be about 1/4" or so... If you really want that Stenzle to work well... weld a ridge right down the center. Give it a 90* moment to rely on. | ||
| Rick_a |
Very observant. Should work better than a wet noodle. Originally the idea was to use 5/16" 6061. I didn't want to risk cracking it, or ruining it by annealing when I don't know how to properly temper it. I know 5052 is much better suited to being worked cold, and 1/4" was the only thing I could easily procure in a small piece. Is it ideal? Who knows. There's only one company making these things. As long as there's no resonance issues I think it'll be ok. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
That 1/4" should be fine. It is a lot stiffer than the air it is replacing. The Stenzel instructions make a point of using washers to ensure that the brace is not stressed when the bike is at rest. Great project. Keep us apprised of your progress and findings. | ||
| Tombo |
Rick, what are you planning to use for mounting points, will they be the same mounting points as a Stenzel bar? | ||
| Rick_a |
Same mounting points. Seems like the most logical way to do it. | ||
| Rick_a |
That's my thinking, too. The Stenzel is very wide with a lot of material removed. This being kept a solid bar should overcome the size deficiency some. | ||
| Rick_a |
It is done.   It came out very well save for one glaring error. The plan was to mount the rear then mark the front through the front iso bolt hole. Well, I had forgotten all about doing it the right way and marked it off the top of the iso bolt. As it is on an angle once set flush against the top of the iso my rear hole was about 1/8" off. I felt pretty dumb and enlarged the rear hole. I figure if Buell thinks it's ok to have a little bolt in a big hole I can do it too. The aluminum was really easy to bend so I may get that 5/16" 6061 bar and do it right next time.   I didn't get a chance to ride it as it was getting late (don't want to wake the neighborhood) but idling in the driveway it had much less vibes than normal. | ||
| Hootowl |
Dumb question: How does this help, not hurt? Wouldn't such a brace prevent the isolator from moving as the engine is trying to move it? Seems to me that you're making it give less, thereby making the mount, head boss, and bolts give more. I'm not a mechanical engineer. Please enlighten me. | ||
| Jayvee |
Rick_a you may be on to something there, I bet yours cost a lot less than the original, much less the shipping. Any plan to make a few more? | ||
| Foximus |
Alright, There is one major problem in what youve done Rick. Of coarse this is meant to be constructional criticism. You obviously did not heat up the aluminum when bending. You left a, though small... rather consistent radius down the arm of the bracket. So you did not make a brace that is ridgid at all but turned a bar of aluminum to a leaf spring. That being said, without a wall with a 90* force to that, that will just vibrate and resonate as the motor see's fit. Now that is not to say, that it isn't better than nothing, as it is. But if you were trying to make something to really lock it down... you have room to improve. Hoot. The point of this is to not let the engine do ANYTHING other than vibrate on a vertical axis. No rocking, so shimmying. Between this and the 4 other mounts, Technically it should be locked in, yet have free (rubbery) reign to bounce vertically as it pleases. | ||
| Tombo |
Rick, looks good. Hootowl, the bar is designed to ensure the top of the motor mount is anchored to the same thing as the bottom of the mount (to the engine). This should reduce the rocking stress on both the motor mount and the motor mount bolts. | ||
| Dannybuell |
ditto with Jayvee | ||
| Foximus |
if anyone wants I can make more than a few of these in a batch. | ||
| Rick_a |
It's 5052 aluminum. Cold working it does it no harm so long as it the radius is sufficient. That small radius down the arm is actually as it came. I didn't think that would do any harm. I know it's not ideal in materials or construction. Even the official Stenzel bar isn't perfect. As I said, I may make a better one out of thicker 6061. This cost me all of $12 and a couple hours in the garage. I may make another, for myself. If I had the capacity to easily mass produce these I would. Riding the bike, it doesn't seem to be resonating. In fact, it seems the contrary. Instead of the engine vibration changing wildly through the RPM range, it's a consistent gentle buzz throughout. No more nearly bouncing the tire at idle and fuzzy eyeballs at low speeds. It is still smoother up top, but it gets progressively smoother, not just in a certain RPM range. My new battery just took a dump and I just got done walking the bike about a mile in the rain, so no more testing for now. | ||
| Foximus |
Cool. Well congratulations. I'm glad it worked for you. I didn't mean to rain on your parade by any means I hope you understand. The fact that you can feel a difference makes me want to try one on my bike, as I have huge huge vibes. | ||
| Eshardball |
Rick or Fox,If either of you are planning on making more, I'll take one. Even if its not perfect, it beats the crap out of relying on air to hold the motor up if the front iso failed | ||
| S1owner |
If some guys want some aluminum i may be able to get ahold of some we carry it in 10, 20, 40 ft legnths 1.5, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 " widths 1/8, 1/4, and 1/2 inch thick for tranission power stations | ||
| S1owner |
Rick Couple of ?? You goto longer bolts? Did you ever think of drilling it bigger and using a brass bushing? | ||
| Rick_a |
The front isolator bolt is just long enough. If the brace is made any thicker a longer bolt will be needed. The standard tie bar bolt is fine, as the brace takes up room where there is normally a thick aluminum spacer. A thinner spacer was used to make up the difference. The stock bolt is actually a bit too long there, as is. I may at some point take Foximus' advise and weld or bolt a brace down the center and possibly weld-up that hole and drill it again. Or, I could just use a bigger brace, though this one seems to be adequate. My bigger hole functions fine though it does irk me so. | ||
| Buellish |
I would like one as well,mabye two.I have an S2 that has a pretty serious vibe that is not pleasant to ride on.The other S2T is not as bad. |
