| Author | Message | ||
     Pontlee77 |
Hello, Witch is the way to improve te rear brake? I was thinking of using an xb braided line and use an xb brake light stitch that goes direct to the master cylinder, has any one tried this? Thanks. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Good idea, I have an XB line I was going to compare to the custom Speigler line I had built, but have gotten distracted and forgot. I'll check it in the morning. The XB switch is a definite improvement over the stock line's set-up. Al as American Sport Bike suggested this as an option so I didn't have such a terrible time trying to bleed out the bubbles that get trapped in the stock line's switch. Here's my thread from some brake work last year: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/646904.html I like the braided line on the back. It improves feel more than adding power, generally just makes a little better functioning rear brake. | ||
| Kalali |
Start with replacing the pads with something better.I found switching to Ferrodo HH Sintered pads a noticeable upgrade. | ||
| Barrick09 |
I replaced my pads and my brake are to the point they don't even slow me down, not sure if i need a caliper or master cylinder rebuild or what but they suck! I bleed them at the caliper and cylinder with still no luck. I'm not sure what to do at this point? | ||
| 01x1buell |
the back brakes are pretty much worthless on these tubeframe bikes, i only use mine in traffic | ||
| Barrick09 |
But before I changed my pads I could pretty much lock the rear and slide, but now if I'm on a slight hill they will barely hold me in place at a red light! I just can't imagine they are that bad!?! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Barrick, I wonder if the piston was dirty when you pushed it back in and is hanging up now? It is possible the piston got tweaked just enough to hang up instead of pushing freely in the slide. A caliper rebuild kit is a fairly inexpensive option to try at this point. I think you might want to pull the caliper off and make sure parts are all clean and able to move freely. clean up the piston if it's got grunge on it, wipe the rubber boot off with some warm soapy water then gently try to spin the piston in the caliper and see if it will move, it should be able to turn in there. Don't force anything. Miguel, I'm heading down to my garage now to check that brake line, sorry for the delay, I was pretty well used up this morning after work so had to sleep. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
I was thinking of rooting down the line and i don't use a fender and use zip ties to hold it where the fender holes go, that way i can bleed the line pumping the brake lever until last bubble of air comes out and then bleed the caliper. At least it's my intention. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Looks like an XB rear brake line should be about perfect in length. It's got a 45 degree bend on the caliper end and a straight fitting on the master cylinder side, should be a very easy project. I think it's probably a perfect off the shelf upgrade for the rear brake. You will need a brake light switch wiring solution, use my previous thread for a tutorial or even use a straight crimp/butt splice type fitting and some heat shrink. XB line is black, custom (red) line above, it is longer and routing was a bit of a pain, the XB line will be much easier.  Definitely will want to use the guides/clamps to keep it in place. Proper orientation on the switch/master side will keep it out of the drive belt (USE CLAMPS on this side at least, putting the clamp on the bottom will work better with the shorter XB line).  Neil, Yes, the stock brake isn't good for much, but you should still be able to keep the bike in place on a hill or add some drag when doing slow speed maneuvers. Having better feel due to pad compound upgrades and a better rear line really help with that. -Mike (Message edited by littlebuggles on September 09, 2012) | ||
| Kalali |
If you were able to lock the rear brake, which by the way is very unusual for the Buells, before the pad change then you need to check the pistons and re-bleed the system. My rear brake was pretty anemic to begin with and the pads made it just usable. I personally rather have "weaker" rear brake rather than one that could lock the rear wheel. | ||
| Trojan |
Changing the rear brake line is pretty much just papering over the cracks if you want a decent rear brake setup. Yes you will get slightly more lever pressure, but you won't improve the brake performance. The only way to do that is to pump more fluid (change master cylinder) or exert more friction on the disc (change caliper). The stock Buell rear brake is one of the weakest on the market that I have found, and I was once told by a dealer that 'The rear brake is designed to be poor because they make the front brake so great'. Perfectly true I assure you  | ||
| Rick_a |
It also takes 50-100 miles or more for new pads to "bed-in." If you have a firm pedal the master cylinder is fine. Make sure the fluid isn't overfilled in the reservoir. Bleeding the brakes can't hurt either, if you do it right. If the fluid is older than a year or two or dark it's a good time to change it. ...and I like the rear brake on Buells. Seems perfect to me, though the tiny pads on my OEM Brembo caliper does not last long, even with very light use. (Message edited by Rick_A on September 11, 2012) |
